Chopper

Not a problem, thank you for letting us know.

Some optional tips for you:

Hi Todd, thank you for your application. The team has completed our initial review and we have the following notes for you: Helmet Nostril decal is off center and needs to be re-positioned. Fix black paint on wearers left side of snout. You can use a toothpick and some rubbing alcohol to fix the edging that we've pointed out in green. Boots Unfortunately, the Keep Trooping/Imperial Boots boots have a number of issues that prevent their clearance for Level 2/Lancer. We do try to warn people in the post, here: The toe strip is more than 1/2" and is too big to pass Level 2. Dogbones do not come down far enough and meet toe strip on inside of boots. Belt The belt is drooping in the front and needs to come up maybe an inch. This is also affecting your cod and chest pouch positioning, which also need to be adjusted. See additional notes. Flight Suit Butt flap is a little long. Need to remove 1-1.5 inch. Thigh strap placement low, should be mid-thigh, about halfway between the belt and the knee armor. Cod There's a bit of cod crunch happening, though not too severe. This will likely be remedied when the belt and bund are adjusted. The sewn inverted curve is sewn too high on the cod and needs to be re-done. Pouches Pouches are too low and too much excess flap is showing. They need to come up about an inch or so. This will likely be fixed when the the belt position is fixed. Drop Boxes While the boxes are hanging approximately 1" from the belt, they're also jutting out at an angle from the legs. They need to be re-positioned to lay flatter. Back Armor If you want to use 4 strips and the trapezoid, then the stripes need to be double thickness. As per the CRL: Only 1, 4 or 6 "rank bars" on tank are acceptable: If tank has extra trapezoid detail on the center tank pin striping, only 4 thick rank bars are acceptable. Missing measurement on shoulder bridge cover. Flak Vest Missing measurement on rear velcro. Blaster Missing any photos of holdout blaster, which is mandatory for Level 2. As a final note, we do want to mention that the greeblies and helmet snout area should ideally be flat/matte. However, because this is not specifically called out in the CRL, you are not required to change anything for this application. TLDR: you don't need to change it, we just wanted to note it. Thank you again for your application. Please let us know if there are any questions or if you need any clarifications on the notes.

If you're totally new to building things, then I recommend going with Studio Creations for the armor. They're US based. They offer a fully trimmed kit, which will minimize the prep work involved in the build. https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/bike_armorforsale.html Now you'll still need to do some build work, but it does make things a little easier. If you're on the smaller or shorter side, then you could also look at Mon Cal/Far Away Creations. They have a shop on Etsy.

Looks about right.

A word of warning on sanding print resin, or any resin, really. Resin dust is toxic. Make sure you're doing it in a ventilated space, or outside, and wearing a respirator with a P100 particulate matter filter. Wet sanding helps as well. As for the photos you posted, I can't see any obvious print lines that would be an issue.

To answer your question about print lines -- the expectation is that 3D printed armor should appear as the ABS plastic used for ROTJ. That means fully finished with no print lines. Will your GML ask for close up photos? That's their call. Will very small lines make a difference? Maybe? Post a photo and we can give your our opinion, but in the end it's the local GML that does basic approval.

Tagging @MrPoopie

If we can't see it, then it doesn't matter. If you look at the CRL photo, the attachment points are hidden behind the detonator box. As an example, I didn't sew my attachment points on, I used snaps. You can't see them, so it's no problem. Do what works for you, as long as what's visible corresponds with the CRL.

Then you should be good.

It doesn't look too thick to me. How much padding did you add?

It's unfortunate that KS wants you to return the whole helmet. There are some options to fix the helmet, and yes, it will involve some work. Your other option is to return it and get a replacement that hopefully has a better pull on the back. Some guidance -- give the thread below a read, because we see a lot of troopers get caught up with Level 2 issues, when they haven't even gotten basic approval yet. Get cleared first!

Check out Dennis' WIP here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/page/2/

Disregard my last. Sorry, you caught me early . Yes, those must match too. I apologize for any confusion.

So KS told you to return the entire helmet b/c of a bad pull on one part? If it's visible then yeah, it would be an issue for L2. I do think it's definitely fixable. Were you planning on paining the helmet white first? Sand it and use some surface filler, then paint. You could also sand the streaks down and then buff the area with increasingly higher grits to get it back to a polish. You'd need to invest in getting the kits below and do a lot of wet sanding. https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-9x3-6-Automotive-Sanding/dp/B074VYL3M6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1EEKPT76OHEXQ&keywords=high+grit+sandpaper&qid=1707574368&sprefix=high+grit+sandpaper%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B08JJ35RYH/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1EEKPT76OHEXQ&keywords=high%2Bgrit%2Bsandpaper&qid=1707574368&sprefix=high%2Bgrit%2Bsandpaper%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-7&th=1

Yes to off-white on the side straps. The bridge covers should be white. From the CRL: If pouches are off-white, dropbox straps must be dyed to match. Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 38mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. Optional: Straps may be off-white if using off-white pouches/drop box straps.

The boot loops aren't required, but they are a nice optional addition.

Hi Justin, the seller told you the truth -- if your intention is for 501st approval, then unfortunately the armor you purchased is not going to work. If your goal is just to costume and have a great time at cons and such, then by all means go for it! But if joining the 501st is your goal, then I recommend you look at getting a new set of armor. A lot of US based folks get their kits from Studio Creations. https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_trimmedarmorkit.html Sorry I can't bring better news. Please let us know if you need any further help on your scout journey.

As an armorer, I can confirm that the chin strap and chin cup are optional.

The Kropserkel helmet is fine for Level 2/Lancer, requiring only some very minor mods. The rest of their armor won't clear Level 2/Lancer. See here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

The webbing you linked should work. If the shade is still too light, you can try tea dying the webbing after you receive it.

In general, please don't use steel rivets on any armor builds, be it pulled abs or printed. As you've discovered, they are a beast to remove.

FYI, on the blaster those screws should be more flush with the plate.

Thank you, Tim. Pathfinders Command is currently discussing the matter.

If it's covered up and not visible then it should not be an issue.