Chopper

I think your flak vest is fine, at least based on how it looks in the photo. A lot will depend on how it looks when it's worn. For the pouches, the front flap should be re-done so that it fully closes. It looks like you have some extra material that's sewn onto the back side, so that might give you the extra length you need. The text in the CRL that says, "Pouches have appearance of being affixed to the cummerbund by the attachment tabs as per the originals" means that the pouches are attached via the tabs. We don't care how they're attached. They can be sewn or you can use velcro. But the attachment point has to be the tabs.

The review team has completed their assessment and our findings are below: Measurements that are missing from application and still need to be provided: Shoulder armor elastic Boot toe strip Dropbox straps Belt webbing Corrections, Adjustments, and Notes: Bicep Armor T-bit is covered in glue. Should be replaced or at least refinished and painted. Bicep armor should be worn a little higher and moved upward 1/2”-1”. Chest/Back Armor Shoulder bridge covers are 1.5" in length. The CRL calls for 0.5" to 1" bridge covers. They will need to be replaced with the proper sized covers. Side strap elastic is ribbed and needs to be replaced with non-ribbed white elastic. The rank bars don't appear to be the same thickness -- the bottom bar appears thinner than the others. If you are using 4 rank bars then they all need to be double thick and you need to use the trapezoid in the middle of the horizontal tank line. Reference: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/06. Back Armor/ROTJ pouches tank.jpg Codpiece Stitched rectangle on the front of the codpiece, where the crotch strap is attached, should not be visible. Belt Right side dropbox should be moved up about half an inch”. Rear parachute buckles are inverted. Detonator End caps should be trimmed down. Recommend taking approx 1/4" off. Tube color is silver and should be replaced with grey tubing or painted gray. Boots Closure loop is too large and should be at the top of the boot closure. Reference: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/15. Misc/MOTM_17701.jpg Holster Lower right rivet on the holster appears to be missing in the original photos. Please verify that it's been replaced. Blaster Barrel divot needs to be filled in. Scope-end should be drilled out. Reference: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/13. Blaster/Auction Blaster52.jpg Indented rings in scope need to be filled in. Reference: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/13. Blaster/Auction Blaster47.jpg Thank you again. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions or need any clarification.

Guess the board didnt like a png file. Edited my original post with a jpg.

The shade is what was described as "Ferrari White" in the Star Wars Costumes book. Most of the time we recommend what's called "Appliance White" for the helmet color. Someone posted this chart a few years back though, disclaimer, I haven't seen the listed color in person. It might be worth seeing if you can get a sample of the color code at Halfords.

Okay, we'll take a look and let you know.

Thank you. Do you have a link to higher resolution versions of the new photos? The sizes are all very small and it's difficult to see the details.

Thank you for the additional photo, unfortunately those pouches would not be approvable. The CRL says "white or off white" and those are yellow/light brown.

Thank you. I do think they're too dark, but I'd rather be thorough about it.

RS outsources their soft goods from Imperial Boots/Keep Trooping, so this would be a question for anyone ordering from that site. As an armorer, I can tell you that those pouches look pretty dark and I'm disinclined to sign off of them. If you don't mind, could you take a photo with outdoor lighting?

I would not recommend those, as the handle segment is not very accurate.

You may want to talk to @MrPoopie about his blaster files.

Congrats on your approval.

Using a Honda Compacto Scooter (or any scooter) as a part of a 501st event is going to be up to the local unit, as well as whatever organization is holding the parade. There will likely be a lot of variation in what's allowed or not, depending on both of those factors. I'd start by asking your local garrison about it, and if they're okay with the idea in general, determining what events would allow them.

The width of your cod looks okay. The best way to keep the cod from developing folds it to add some foam or buckram fabric to the inside. Your front armor looks fine, but I think you should work on bringing your back armor up about 5cm. Can you lower your belt any further before it starts to feel uncomfortable? That might help with how your pouches are hanging.

Congrats on your approval, scout

Congrats on your approval

To my knowledge, no one has posted a fully built WTF V2 armor or helmet kit on our forums. The quote below from our DL still stands. The V2 helmet should be fine, but it still depends on what the final constructed product looks like.

The chest pockets won't be visible with your gear on, so you can keep them if you'd like.

Red Kap Men's Twill Action Back Coverall https://a.co/d/2PqcV4y

Have you reached out to the vendor for more information?

Congrats on your approval

If you put some velcro on the triangle spots on the inside of the belt, you can use that to help keep it in place.

The top edge of the scout belt should ideally be placed just below your navel/bellybutton. Where does yours sit? It's fine if the connection point between the cod and the strap is visible.

Since you're already a legion member, your number designator does not change, only the prefix. You would be TB-82611.

For general trimming you want to get a pair of lexan scissors. For the slots you'll need to use a dremel with a cutting wheel. When using the dremel, I think I used the next speed up from the slowest but YMMV. If you go too fast the wheel can get away from you and gouge other parts of the armor. You'll have to get a feel for what works best for you. You can always test it out on some scrap plastic. Also you might want to get some nail files or emory boards to smooth out any edges.