Chopper

Glad you tested it first. Good thinking.

I can't recall exactly how high I can raise my arms, but it's not necessarily all the way over my head. And while it is true that you have more flexibility in a scout vs a stormtrooper, you should not expect full flexibility while wearing the scout soft goods and armor.

Congrats on your approval

Ah oils. Ok. If you want to be conservative, I'd give it maybe 5-7 days to fully dry.

What sort of paint did you use? Drying times will vary depending on the type of paint. That said, 2 weeks to dry would be pretty excessive for most paints.

If you used standard hardware store spray paints, then that weathering is not coming off. Acetone and other chemical based paint removers will take it off, but will also melt the armor. Don't do it. You can try wiping it with 90% iso alcohol, but that will depend on how heavy the weathering is. if your weathering is on the heavier side, your only other option is to wet sand the armor with 600+ grit sandpaper, prime and repaint the armor in white, and then once dried, start applying the mando scout weathering techniques.

Yep, you're done. Leave it and move to the other ear.

Looks good. Keep it up.

Yeah, that's quite warped and would need to be straightened out. Same with the vertical vanes as well. Can you see the faint ridge along the side edge? That's about the thickness that the tank topper should be. It's something around 1/8" in thickness.

I can't tell how much of the underside has been ground down, particularly on the tank topper, but the rest looks fine. It also looks like there's some bubbles and pin holes in the casts. You should try and fill those with apoxiesculpt or other filler putties.

Yes, that's fine. The recess shouldn't be there, but some vendors put it there to help with drawing the white circle. You'll need something to keep your bolts in place. The ones in the photo are just the nuts used by the 3M rotator bolts. They're on the inside of the helmet, so it doesn't matter what's used.

How is your strapping currently set up? If you have velcro on both sides of your side straps, then you should just be able to pull the straps out. If yours isn't set up like that, then you can rig it that way and then you can remove your straps whenever you want.

There's quite a bit of mold flash and remnants on those. With proper finishing, those greebs will clear, though it's going to take some sanding to finish the edges and the undersides. If you want to save yourself some time and energy, you can get a set from Studio Creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

Have you already looked at the photos in the gallery, here? http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

It is not strictly defined, but they should be at an equal distance. Since the CRL is a visual and written guide, they should be close to what's depicted in the vest section -- in other words, something like 50mm spacing between ribs won't fly. For reference, I got my vest from KriptonTop and the ribs are spaced at 22mm.

The black strap connects to the back of your bund or your flightsuit. I have not seen a specific suit up guide or video for the mando scout. You can use the CRL photos for how it's supposed to look. The cummerbund is positioned about halfway over and under your belt. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Scout-Trooper-The-Mandalorian

The length of the shoulder bells looks okay, but yes, the width seems to be on the bigger side. The bells on the film armor, which the RS suit is derived from, were fairly wide as well. I would start getting the rest of your costume fitted and sized up, before you trim the bells. And for the flak vest, the width of the bells doesn't matter anyhow.

FYI, none of the images you posted are displaying.

That is the right amount of weathering. Congrats on successfully avoiding the charbroiled look 😁.

I have not heard of anyone using that specific shade of white. However, if you want to give it a try, you can buy it and spray it on some scrap abs plastic to see how it looks.

They'd need to either drill or model an appropriate diameter hole to insert a dowel or acrylic rod.

No, it is not one part, nor intended to be. The charging handle needs to be added on the right side. The disk needs to be on the left side in the position indicated in the photo I posted the other day.

The cylinder on the right side is the charging handle. That part needs to be added along with the disk and the wire. Can't comment on the correct size at the moment, but @Aradun has provided that info in the past.

You are looking to get 501st approval, correct? Personally I recommend you go with the semI-gloss white. Clearcoat is fine but it also tends to add a yellow tint over time. And fyi, using a black underlayer and then scraping the edges is not the style of weathering used in ROTJ. The armor was white abs, so there was no black underlayer. Any weathering used light spray paint misting. For boots, you can look at Crowprops, Chefs Creations, and Chrisx909x on these forums. Prices may vary, but expect $150+. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23318-rotj-biker-scout-soft-goods-ongoing/ For the tubing, look for pool or vacuum tubing in the outer diameter that fits your detonator box. They can vary depending on the maker. Yes you can hand sew the suede as long as it's neatly done. Pro-tip -- get a metal thimble for your thumb, or it's going to be quite sore.

Yep, they're displaying now.