Chopper

The most common method is to put some hot glue along the left and right sides of the lens on the inside of the face plate.

The Kropserkel helmet build is almost exactly the same due to their similar construction. Give this a watch and see if it answers your questions: There's also some additional photos, here: And some photos in the scoutpedia of the original screen used scout helmet:

There's some photos in this build thread that might help:

Hiya, the ear hole placement looks fine.

You can repair cracks to a point, but the repair is usually only temporary. While the choice to retire the costume is ultimately a personal one, as Kris said you can always look into getting replacement parts. And with the soft goods, it sounds like it's less of a wear issue and more of a tailoring issue? In which case, you can seek out an alterations shop to try and get a better fit. You can also add velcro to keep things together, as in this thread:

There is nothing in the CRL that requires the helmet visor to lock into an open position. Some helmet face plates stay up better than others. My helmet doesn't stay open either, so I just hold it open if I have to talk to someone, or if I'm drinking water.

You can get one from studio creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

You are buying new pouches anyhow, correct? The solution that requires the least adjustments to the strapping on the costume is to get the new white pouches, and then tea-dye them to a very slight off-white color. That way you can leave all the other strapping alone. For more info on tea dying the pouches, see the info here:

Looks like you're in luck as they have 1" as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVGJC1X/ref=twister_B07PWB625L?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Buy 2" velcro. Cut it lengthwise to fit the boot shaft. Then, using a straight edge, cut it in half using a sharp exacto blade.

The elastic and velcro attachment isn't all that common anymore. Pandatrooper's build uses that method, but that is a very, very old build thread, so anything in it needs to be re-checked against the CRL. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/9781-pandatroopers-sc-biker-scout-build/page/3/

Both should work, but I'd defer to getting the KriptonTop one.

The pull length or the grip range refers to the length of the part that compresses when you use the rivet gun tool.

What's the pull length on the rivet you're using? Is it too short for the material you're affixing? And as I said earlier, you can install the rivet in either orientation and it will clear.

That's what I'd do.

That center divot can be a weak point the armor. You can fix that temporarily, but once you have a crack that size, it's just a matter of time until it breaks again. First, you're going to need to use a tiny drill bit and drill a hole at the top of the crack. This is to keep the crack from going any further. Get some sheet abs and trim it to cover the crack from the inside of the armor. That's your splint. Use a heat gun if you need it to form the abs splint as needed to fit where the crack is. Glue the abs splint to the inside of the armor using devcon plastic weld. Then you're going to need to make some abs paste to fill the crack. Once it's dry, you can sand it down. IMO with a crack that big, I just don't think any repair will last very long. It's just a part that's meant to flex -- that's why you see that "V" cut on the center bottom of the screen armor.

Congrats on your approval

Can you post a screenshot of what you're describing? It's locked behind a Facebook group.

We do not have unlimited photo hosting on the forums, so you'll have to use a hosting service. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/#comment-216514

The rings were narrower than that, but for the attachment you can just cut the whole buckle portion off. You just need to fold both ends over and secure them with chicago screws.

Either orientation is acceptable.

Dry cleaning uses solvents to clean the textiles, so I wouldn't use that as my first choice if you're concerned about the weathering. I've always hand washed my goods in the tub with cold water, a little bit of woolite, and then just let everything air dry.

Yes it does. Under the chest armor and sits on top of the belt.

Most people use gray pool or vacuum tubing in the proper size, but you usually have to buy more than you need. I would email Jeff at Studio Creations to see if he'll sell you a gray section of tubing. That way you won't have to paint the yellow tubing and have it chip and rub off on your armor and soft goods. jeffallen at studiocreations dot com

Did the vendor you purchased your kit from not send any det tubing with your kit?