Chopper

You will also need to move the thigh straps.

The scope on the DLT is meant to be modeled on the singlepoint scope, which was also used on the holdout blaster. The inner lines aren't from print stepping, they're supposed to be there:

A tailored flight suit will cost around 220 Euro. How much will it cost to do the alterations on your existing suit? If you hadn't already purchased the soft goods, I would tell you to go the tailored route, but you've already invested money in the current gear and it is fixable.

About halfway between your drop boxes and knee armor.

Those side straps need to come up so they're halfway between your drop boxes and your knee armor.

Flak vests are not typically that long. You should get it altered to be shorter in length.

Hi, it looks like you're nearly there. A few refinements -- Can you clarify what this black bit is on the back side? Is that the bottom edge of the flak vest? If so, the bottom of the vest should not be visible underneath the cummerbund. Also on the back side, the butt flap has a large gap between the belt and the start of the flap. There should not be a visible gap there. The flap is already long, but moving it up should shorten it's overall length.

Correct

Looks good

The CRL says: Holster Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. The blaster pistol fits into the holster. The holster must be attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets for basic clearance. Attaching via velcro is not acceptable.

The shape of the sole must be close to what's depicted. Again, many scouts have modded work boots for both L1 and L2. For L2 the cuts should be close to the original, though the cuts do not need to be a 1:1 exact replica of the Sierra Sneaker pattern.

Those look like someone took a riding boot template and tried to make scout boots from it. Those boots could not be adequately modified to pass L1 or L2. Beyond the soles, there's a seam running down the front of the boot shaft, which will not pass. If you only want L1/basic, you can get the KeepTrooping boots. For L1 and L2 you can get a pair of work boots and modify them as per the tutorial here: You can also get boots from CrowProps. Prices for the options will vary, depending on the vendor.

The diameter of the tubing can vary depending on the maker of your armor. I would start by measuring the diameter of the slot in the 3D det box you printed. For example, the outer diameter of the tubing for my studio creations armor is about 46mm. The RS tubing is about 45mm. For others, the slot may be much narrower, but what I've given you is a starting point.

CA glue aka Superglue

I'd go with the thinner 1.3mm cow suede. The other stuff is 2.5mm, which is too thick. We usually use pig suede, so, if you can, it might be worth taking a look at it if they have some in stock.

If you're in Western Australia, I'm guessing you're around Perth? Have you tried checking out this place or calling them up to see if they might have any recommendations? https://www.leatherdirect.com.au/category/suedes

There is some size information in this post:

Mr. Paul: https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/about/ Nico helmet: https://www.etsy.com/listing/864903122/rogue-one-shoretrooper-helmet

I can't totally see from the photos, but did you add the reinforcement strips on the inside of the helmet?

The neck seal is an optional accessory. It is not required for clearance. It looks like it should be fine, based on the photos. Neck Seal Black fabric only; no rubberized or leather parts. Trapunto-quilted ribbing. Conceals the entire neck. Must be worn under the collar of the undersuit. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Neck seal has a velcro closure. Closure is no wider than .5 inches (12mm).

In the ear canal or over and obscuring the ear holes?

Agreed you want a glue that's specifically designed to bond plastic, not metal.

Yeah, E6000 will leave you with pieces of a helmet and that's not going to cut it. You need a permanent bond. I recommend Devcon Plastic Weld for securing the reinforcement strips. https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S

Dennis is correct. You want a chemical bond that joins the reinforced plastic to the chest plate. A chemical bond, like with abs glue or plastic weld will have some flex. CA glue is strong but rigid and brittle. It does not "weld" the plastic reinforcement to the armor.

Yes, use a heat gun to heat the strips (away from the helmet), then once the straps are hot enough to be flexy, press them into place. Once they cool, they'll keep their shape and you can glue them in. You should have strips reinforcing along the entire seam line. There should be no gaps showing though, or else you risk seam cracking.