Chopper

Are you talking about the clips for the belt detonator?

Common stress areas are the center top and bottom of the chest plate, the single rivet point on the sides of the belt, and the riveted corners of the holster.

The cup is optional and you are not required to use it. The elastic is threaded through two cuts in the sides of the helmet "jowls". The elastic is then threaded through the center of the chin cup.

Military Double Prong Canvas Belt, Heavy Duty Army Pistol Grommet Two Hole 1.75" (Khaki - Size X-Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1915MX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ErRcEbBNV3M5G

That looks good.

I think that should work.

I'd add a bit more space at the bottom, maybe another `1/4", especially if you intend to add the "V" cut that some troopers add. The "V" cut is also a stress point, so it will need some reinforcement on the back end.

You can contact Mr. Paul via his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

@Aradun

Looks like the RWA has a one piece visor, but is otherwise similar to the 5 piece helmet builds. RS has a pretty in-depth series of build videos that you might want to take a look at:

The rivet is meant to hold the 1/2" tank elastic, which is optional. If you don't use the elastic, then yes it is decorative. The screen tanks flopped around a lot, but if you would prefer to anchor yours down so it doesn't move, then yes, you can rivet it to the back armor. Just make sure you don't need to take it off for any reason first.

This color should work: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249088-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZO

There is no requirement to have a ratcheting mechanism to hold the face plate up, nor is there any requirement to show your face in clearance photos by ratcheting the face plate up. It's a convenience, sure, but the ratcheting is actually a stress point and can form cracks in the visor shroud over time anyhow, so I wouldn't worry too much about not having it. For clearance you can just take a photo with your helmet off.

Yes the tubing should be about the same color as the other parts.

Your initial mock up looks pretty decent so far. Just a few notes and answers to your questions. 3: Correct. Your bund should sit on top of your belt, not tucked in. Can you raise it any further without it sitting above your side straps? 4: L2 of the CRL calls for "Vest sleeves extend no further than 1.5 inches past the bottom edge of the shoulder bell." Your current sleeves look anywhere from 2-2.5" longer than the bells. Pin them up about an inch shorter and see how it looks. 5: There is not specific measurement for the TD or boots. They are meant to be proportional to your body. The TD looks generally about right, though I recommend you get rid of that silver tubing and replace it with some gray tubing of a similar size, or you can paint it gray. Your boots look approximately 2" too long, at least as well as I can eyeball it from the photo. 6: The black greebs look fine. The gray greebs will need to be painted the proper medium or neutral gray color. Try and get your pouches to align with the edges of of the chest armor. The drop box straps in the rear should meet approximately in the center. Reference the CRL photo:

No, you don't need a return edge there.

Typically it's in the upper, but it also depends how the boots fit on you and what's comfortable. The knee armor should not be dipping into your boot shafts. Post a photo if you'd like and we'll take a look.

Most helmets will work for a large head, with the exception of the Studio Creations helmet, which runs small.

I know the can says it's paint plus primer, but from my experience using it, you really want to use a regular primer first. I masked the snout indent portion and spray painted it.

Level 1: The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with white webbing. This means that the webbing can be from any material, polyester, nylon, etc., so long as it's white. Level 2: Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 38mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. This means that the side strap webbing should be cotton webbing. Optional: 38mm (1.5 inch) white elastic material is acceptable provided the color matches. This means that you may alternatively substitute white elastic for the side straps, as long as the color matches your other strapping. If you choose to use off white pouches/drop box straps, then the elastic side straps would have to match. TLDR: For the side straps, you can use either webbing or elastic, as long as the strapping color matches your drop box strapping. Get some Rustoleum Gray Filler Primer for the joined sections. And some regular gray primer for when you've finished sanding and are ready to paint. For the white, we typically recomment Rustoleum Painters Touch White in gloss or semi gloss. A clearcoat is not typically needed. For the snout you want to get a medium gray or neutral gray color and also flat black for indent portion.

Thank you Arne.

Yes, that is too much texture for the boots, . You do not want a pebbled texture on the vinyl.

You want leather or denim needles, which are a heavier gauge. General purpose polyester thread should be fine. Sngle stitch devices usually aren't worth the money. You should see if you can at least borrow someone's seating machine. Hand sewing is possible but you'll need to get a metal thimble for your thumb.

I would carefully examine the photos in the Scoutopedia and draw your own pencil lines. You can post them here and the armory team can offer guidance prior to cutting. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

You can watch the video below from our esteemed Detachment Leader. We do not have unlimited photo hosting on the forums, so you'll have to use a hosting service. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/#comment-216514