Chopper

This is how it appears on at least 2 different browsers:

FYI, the links you posted are not working.

Do you have a particular 3D model that you're looking at? If so, give us a link and we can take a look. The singlepoint scope, same as the one used on the holdout blaster, needs to be integrated into the larger rifle scope. The prop scope does not need to function as an actual scope. See attached photos for additional details. T tracks. Example from regular DLT19, but they're the same type.

Great work. Looks good.

Yes, the regular gray primer should work fine -- it doesn't have the bondo mixed in.

Filler primer is basically paint primer + bondo and isn't really made to serve as a surface coat. It may start rubbing off and not be very durable over the long term. The black clips are generally positioned a little more than halfway between the detonator box and the end caps.

The adjusted boot length looks good.

That was nice of them. Just keep the unmarked parts as spares in case anything breaks.

General painting tips for painting cast urethane resin: Cast helmets usually have mold release residue on them, which will prevent the paint from adhering properly. Clean it with a toothbrush and dish soap, then make sure the soap is fully cleaned off and the helmet fully dried before going further. Lightly wet sand the helmet with some high grit sandpaper, 600 or 800 grit. Again, make sure any residue is fully cleaned off before painting or you'll get orange peel or paint crackles.. Prime the helmet with paint primer, the color doesn't matter, you can use white or black if you want. Again wet sand the helmet with high grit sandpaper, 600 or 800 grit. Make sure the helmet is clean and fully dry. Once it's fully primed and dried, you can start painting with the glossier paint layers. Note that once the paint start to dry after about 15-20 min, then you need to wait until it's fully dry -- 24-28 hrs, before painting another coat. Otherwise you'll get orange peel or paint crackles.

Congratulations

The most common method is to put some hot glue along the left and right sides of the lens on the inside of the face plate.

The Kropserkel helmet build is almost exactly the same due to their similar construction. Give this a watch and see if it answers your questions: There's also some additional photos, here: And some photos in the scoutpedia of the original screen used scout helmet:

There's some photos in this build thread that might help:

Hiya, the ear hole placement looks fine.

You can repair cracks to a point, but the repair is usually only temporary. While the choice to retire the costume is ultimately a personal one, as Kris said you can always look into getting replacement parts. And with the soft goods, it sounds like it's less of a wear issue and more of a tailoring issue? In which case, you can seek out an alterations shop to try and get a better fit. You can also add velcro to keep things together, as in this thread:

There is nothing in the CRL that requires the helmet visor to lock into an open position. Some helmet face plates stay up better than others. My helmet doesn't stay open either, so I just hold it open if I have to talk to someone, or if I'm drinking water.

You can get one from studio creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

You are buying new pouches anyhow, correct? The solution that requires the least adjustments to the strapping on the costume is to get the new white pouches, and then tea-dye them to a very slight off-white color. That way you can leave all the other strapping alone. For more info on tea dying the pouches, see the info here:

Looks like you're in luck as they have 1" as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVGJC1X/ref=twister_B07PWB625L?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Buy 2" velcro. Cut it lengthwise to fit the boot shaft. Then, using a straight edge, cut it in half using a sharp exacto blade.

The elastic and velcro attachment isn't all that common anymore. Pandatrooper's build uses that method, but that is a very, very old build thread, so anything in it needs to be re-checked against the CRL. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/9781-pandatroopers-sc-biker-scout-build/page/3/

Both should work, but I'd defer to getting the KriptonTop one.

The pull length or the grip range refers to the length of the part that compresses when you use the rivet gun tool.

What's the pull length on the rivet you're using? Is it too short for the material you're affixing? And as I said earlier, you can install the rivet in either orientation and it will clear.

That's what I'd do.