Chopper

Aside from the shoulder issue you mentioned, you should also pull your cod down a bit, so it's not so scrunched. Also, remember that the chest pouches need to go over your belt, not under. That's all I can see from what you posted. Let us know if you have further questions.

I would try for more gloss.

It might be the lighting, but the finish looks pretty flat.

I don't think the shade difference is an issue. Did you do a clearcoat on the armor yet?

Hiya, welcome to the pathfinders forums. Here's some vendor lists and photo comparisons, which will get you pointed in the right direction: Since you're in the US, the most common scout armors that people get are Studio Creations and Mon Cal/Far Away Creations. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23117-ultimate-helmet-comparison-thread https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ Let us know if you have any questions.

And if you don't know who made your kit, post up some photos and we can prob ID it.

Yes, you should remove the mesh from the ear holes. Get some black gaffer tape and put it inside the ears to black out the visible portion on the inside. The Scoutopedia has some good example images of the black snout area that you can use for comparison.

The divot on the chest is a known stress point. Get some sheet abs and trim it to cover the crack from the inside of the armor. That's your splint. Use a heat gun if you need it to form the abs splint as needed to fit where the crack is. Glue the abs splint to the inside of the armor using devcon plastic weld. Some people will tell you to make abs paste to fill the crack. And that will work, but without a splint it will just crack again.

Chef's boots are fine for L1 and L2

Looks good

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I would try semi gloss first.

You can use a toothpick dipped in 90% iso alcohol to clean up the black curved portion on the snout.

That's not a huge difference in shade. I think the primary issue is that the finish is very different. If you put a gloss or semi gloss coat on the armor, I don't think the difference will be as apparent.

Matte black is the color to use. Most people use spray paints, but either spray paint or an airbrush should work fine. Go with whichever one you feel most comfortable using.

@OnkelPaschulke are you able to help with the paint selection options?

Hey there Matt-- I noticed that the pull on this part looks looks a bit off, as it looks like there's a dent of some sort on the corner? Maybe it's the angle of the photo? Looks like it's the wearer's lower left portion of the visor shroud? -Pencil marks look fine, outside of my comment above, which is really about the pull from the mold. You may end up needing to trim a bit more around the eyeslot and earholes, but I'd start with what you've marked right now. Whenever you're trimming, start with less, then carefully trim more in increments. If you take a careful approach, you should be fine. -The return edge comment in the CRL is talking about the bend in the end of the visor shroud. The Kropserkel helmet has it, so you're fine. -Yes. Ditch the decal and the right side snout greeblie from your photo. The greeb on the left is the one you want to use. -You'll need to smooth the print lines on the top of the snout greeb Let us know if you have any further questions and good luck with your build.

You can also try emailing New Image to see if they can tell you the exact color or brand that they use.

I can't say for sure what New Image uses for their exact paint color and I am not sure what it would be called in Germany, but if you can get a can of what's usually called "Appliance White", then that should be close at least to the helmet color. Otherwise, you may need to try a few brands of pure white on some scrap plastic to see how well they match. Note that the helmet and armor do not need to be an exact pantone match for clearance, but drastically noticeable color differences may be an issue.

What you're asking is essentially a chemistry question. In general, anything white has a risk of yellowing and discoloration over time, even if it's not in direct sunlight. It can have something to do with the specific paint used, or it can have something to do with any clearcoat that's used on top of the paint. There's really no way to know in an absolute sense, just that's there's probably a difference in the types of paint used on each helmet. And there's no permanent way to proof something against yellowing, only that a lot of sun exposure will certainly accelerate the process. But as you've experienced, sometimes items will start to yellow regardless.

You're like 95% of the way there. Turn your biceps out, so they're facing at a 90 degree angle. Forearm armor should be at about a 45 degree angle and extend over the glove. Pull your bund up maybe an inch. It can help to add some velcro to the flak vest, so it won't sag down. Your belt should also come up accordingly. Ideally the top edge should sit just below your navel. That's all I can see from the photo you posted.

Nothing that is hidden is evaluated for clearance purposes -- we only care about what's outwardly visible. That said, it is very difficult to get suited up by yourself in the Scout. The flak vest and bund are the two items that are pretty hard to do without assistance. It takes about 10 seconds for another trooper to help close the back of the flak vest, bund, and optionally, belt and detonator, so that's what I've always done.

Hi Chris, I think you should move it up maybe another inch. ideally, the whole cod should lay flat on the front of your body.

If it's an aluminum rivet, then you should be able to drill it out with a 1/8" drill bit. Just drill through the center indent and it should come out. If you used a steel rivet, you can still get it out, but it's going to take a lot more work. Hoping that it's aluminum! Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQmzPkNX0QI Also yes, you can fill in the holes with abs paste. I'd get some thin abs or styrene scrap plastic and glue it behind the holes. Then you can use abs or styrene scraps to make abs paste. Here's some info on making abs paste: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/ At worst, you can get a new belt, but that's a last resort.