Chopper

I've seen a few people try to convert these and, if I recall correctly, the sole material actually makes it more difficult to cut the notches for L2. Also, the sole color is not the correct "wheat" shade for L2, which means you're back to having to paint the sides again. I think that they'd pass L1/basic if they're built properly. But it would be more work for L2.

Hello and welcome to the Pathfinders.

Hiya, this question was addressed not long after the helmet was released and unfortunately the end assessment was that it was not approvable: Reference this thread for more info:

The softening temperature of ABS is around 221 to 239 deg F, so it's really unlikely that it got hot enough to warp. Your ear hole cuts look good.

Since you have an ABS helmet, that would be pretty unusual unless you're storing it inside a hot car all day in 100 deg temperatures. I would not start messing with the heat gun at this point. Where do you think it's widened or flared out?

I took a look through amazon.ca and I'm just not seeing much of anything with the single color sole. Same with the US amazon as well. Most everything seems to be two-tone these days. You may need to resort to painting the sides. Depending on your budget, there's always crowprops. He makes the inner boots if you want to make your own: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

Most bunds are between 8-9 inches in height. I agree that the photo on the right looks better.

Just a question, but did you use chicago screws to attach your holster?

The vendor has updated their files to fix the issues we raised. It's not the best model, but it should meet basic clearance requirements.

@Aradun

Reminder to wear some respiratory protection if you do that. Resin dust is toxic.

Looks solid

"Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed." means it's your choice as to which width you want to use. Either are acceptable. For 2 kits, I doubt you'd need more than 2 yards of most types, in total. That'll also give you some wiggle room if you cut a section too short and need more. The ribbed elastic type is this style: https://www.etsy.com/listing/51705512/black-34-1-1-14-strong-non-roll-elastic The 1.5" elastic is not very particular, this is the style: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1092833089/beyond-trim-sewing-elastic-knit-elastic 1.5" polypro webbing for the drop boxes. Will prob need 4 yards for 2 kits: https://www.etsy.com/listing/772977966/white-polypro-strapping-1-12-wide-by Buckles, use these: https://www.amazon.com/J-CARP-Release-Adjustable-Replacement-Backpack/dp/B09JZ92HK5?th=1

Glad you tested it first. Good thinking.

I can't recall exactly how high I can raise my arms, but it's not necessarily all the way over my head. And while it is true that you have more flexibility in a scout vs a stormtrooper, you should not expect full flexibility while wearing the scout soft goods and armor.

Congrats on your approval

Ah oils. Ok. If you want to be conservative, I'd give it maybe 5-7 days to fully dry.

What sort of paint did you use? Drying times will vary depending on the type of paint. That said, 2 weeks to dry would be pretty excessive for most paints.

If you used standard hardware store spray paints, then that weathering is not coming off. Acetone and other chemical based paint removers will take it off, but will also melt the armor. Don't do it. You can try wiping it with 90% iso alcohol, but that will depend on how heavy the weathering is. if your weathering is on the heavier side, your only other option is to wet sand the armor with 600+ grit sandpaper, prime and repaint the armor in white, and then once dried, start applying the mando scout weathering techniques.

Yep, you're done. Leave it and move to the other ear.

Looks good. Keep it up.

Yeah, that's quite warped and would need to be straightened out. Same with the vertical vanes as well. Can you see the faint ridge along the side edge? That's about the thickness that the tank topper should be. It's something around 1/8" in thickness.

I can't tell how much of the underside has been ground down, particularly on the tank topper, but the rest looks fine. It also looks like there's some bubbles and pin holes in the casts. You should try and fill those with apoxiesculpt or other filler putties.

Yes, that's fine. The recess shouldn't be there, but some vendors put it there to help with drawing the white circle. You'll need something to keep your bolts in place. The ones in the photo are just the nuts used by the 3M rotator bolts. They're on the inside of the helmet, so it doesn't matter what's used.

How is your strapping currently set up? If you have velcro on both sides of your side straps, then you should just be able to pull the straps out. If yours isn't set up like that, then you can rig it that way and then you can remove your straps whenever you want.