Chopper

No, you don't need a return edge there.

Typically it's in the upper, but it also depends how the boots fit on you and what's comfortable. The knee armor should not be dipping into your boot shafts. Post a photo if you'd like and we'll take a look.

Most helmets will work for a large head, with the exception of the Studio Creations helmet, which runs small.

I know the can says it's paint plus primer, but from my experience using it, you really want to use a regular primer first. I masked the snout indent portion and spray painted it.

Level 1: The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with white webbing. This means that the webbing can be from any material, polyester, nylon, etc., so long as it's white. Level 2: Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 38mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. This means that the side strap webbing should be cotton webbing. Optional: 38mm (1.5 inch) white elastic material is acceptable provided the color matches. This means that you may alternatively substitute white elastic for the side straps, as long as the color matches your other strapping. If you choose to use off white pouches/drop box straps, then the elastic side straps would have to match. TLDR: For the side straps, you can use either webbing or elastic, as long as the strapping color matches your drop box strapping. Get some Rustoleum Gray Filler Primer for the joined sections. And some regular gray primer for when you've finished sanding and are ready to paint. For the white, we typically recomment Rustoleum Painters Touch White in gloss or semi gloss. A clearcoat is not typically needed. For the snout you want to get a medium gray or neutral gray color and also flat black for indent portion.

Thank you Arne.

Yes, that is too much texture for the boots, . You do not want a pebbled texture on the vinyl.

You want leather or denim needles, which are a heavier gauge. General purpose polyester thread should be fine. Sngle stitch devices usually aren't worth the money. You should see if you can at least borrow someone's seating machine. Hand sewing is possible but you'll need to get a metal thimble for your thumb.

I would carefully examine the photos in the Scoutopedia and draw your own pencil lines. You can post them here and the armory team can offer guidance prior to cutting. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

You can watch the video below from our esteemed Detachment Leader. We do not have unlimited photo hosting on the forums, so you'll have to use a hosting service. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/#comment-216514

Proposed cut looks okay.

No, only what is listed in the CRL

Flight Suit The undersuit is a TIE Fighter pilot-style flight suit. One piece black coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper. Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. On the left bicep there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves: The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket, approximately 6" (152mm) wide and 5.75" (146mm) on the bicep: The pocket has a 2" (50.8mm) flap. (2) large chest pockets (optional as covered by chest armor) and (2) large front pockets below the belt, without any zipper or flaps. (2) leg pockets with flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket. If Imperial Cogs are present on the shoulders, they are covered by the shoulder armor and not visible. The Wampa Wear suit you've selected lacks the arm and sleeve pockets. You want this one in whatever size is appropriate: https://wampawear.com/product/black-flightsuit-medium/ The Mon Cal suit has straight flaps and added shin pockets. The KriptonTop suit also has straight flaps, unless that's something you can ask to be customized. Get the Wampa Tie Pilot flight suit.

Congrats vanguard!

Most of the blasters that vendors offer have the part you're currently working on fully molded. The Hole in the Ground Productions blaster is the exception vs the rule. You can keep working on finishing it yourself, or you can 3D print and finish a new scope, or you can buy a new blaster. For the last, I recommend blasterworks. https://blasterworks.net/shop For the 3D print option, talk to @MrPoopie

Any approvable ROTJ helmet will work for the Mando scout as well. Kropserkel. Studio Creations, RS, Mon Cal etc.

That should be fine. Just wanted to make sure when you mentioned the flak vest.

Nice work with your build progress. Just a question, but did you get the helmets from WTF as well? If so you should be aware of this impending deadline:

From an initial pass, I don't see any immediate issues with your selection. All are longstanding well known vendors. From what I've heard, I don't think that Stephtrooper is active anymore. Note that the Mando scout has different requirements for the soft goods vs the ROTJ scout. There is no flak vest and the undersuit is a flight suit. Check what you're getting against the CRL first. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Scout-Trooper-The-Mandalorian

Yes that will work.

Congrats Jared

The hole on the end of singlepoint scope is approximately 17mm deep and the rim is about 1.5mm wide, though the inside gets wider the lower it goes. You can see a good example of what the scope looks like, below. The photos also show the ridges on the inside of the scope end.

I would carefully examine the photos in the Scoutopedia and draw your own pencil lines. You can post them here and the armory team can offer guidance prior to cutting. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Kriptontop's vest is good. Go with him over Imperial Boots/Keeptrooping. And his bund/cod/pouches are better as well. Another option is Chrisx909x:

A hollow barrel should only be present if the model follows all of the features of the "hero" blaster. This is not the case for many, if not all of the scout blasters out there. The blaster model the OP posted appears to use the stunt blaster as a model, so the barrel should not have a hole in it. Reference, hero blaster, below: