Chopper

Sounds good

How asymmetrical are we talking here? The original Scout helmets, being hand sculpted, were also somewhat asymmetrical as well.

You'll need 1/8" diameter aluminum pop rivets, 1/8" aluminum backing plates, and a pop rivet gun. Use the CRL to align the holster on your boot. Use a pencil to mark where the rivets go. Use a drill to dril 1/8" holes. Use a pencil to mark the hole placement on the boots, then you can use a pointed punch, or sharp exact blade to make a hole. Feed the rivet through the holster and boot leather. Place a backer plate on the inside, and then pop the rivet using the pop-rivet gun. If you don't have a pop-rivet gun and don't anticipate using one again in the future, you may be able to borrow one from a garrison mate.

Your dropbox and belt positioning looks fine. I used snaps to attach my drop box straps in the back, but if you want to use a rivet, go for it. Just don't forget the backer plate so it doesn't pull through the fabric. For the shoulder bridge covers, the hot glue adhesive will probably work for a little while, but you should plan to replace it with something more permanent in the future. I would not trim any more off the bottom of the chest armor. Your shoulder bells appear to be in the right ballpark. Good call on waiting to trim any more until you have your flak vest finished.

Bonjour, il est très difficile de voir votre costume sur les photos ci-jointes. Avez-vous des photos d'ensemble plus claires ?

There is a slight downward angle on the front of the visor, which is also evident on the screen helmets, below. I would not touch the sides of the visor shroud/upper part. It looks trimmed about right. The face plate/lower part needs to be trimmed more. You want to have a more direct line on the side from the visor shroud to the bottom of the side of the face plate.

FYI, no photos are displaying in the thread.

Feel free to share any submission photos if you'd like. We're happy to offer feedback.

Feel free to do so and we'll take a look.

I think that's a good call.

In general, the goods you have should be fine for basic approval. In the end, and you obviously know this, but it's all going to depend on how it fits once you put everything on.

Congrats on your approval

Congrats! A pathfinder first!

The front looks great. In the back you need to bring your drop back straps closer together. Check and compare with the CRL photo, below:

Just a word of caution to be careful with repeatedly popping the visor all the way up and down. The area around the rotator bolts is a strain point and eventually the plastic will crack there after repeated use.

Your pouch position looks about right. I do want to note that the velcro stitch marks in the dead center of the bund is a bit concerning to me. For approval, that strip will likely need to be unpicked and steamed to remove the indent. For your cod, it's meant to sit flat on the front of your body, so you will definitely need to put some sort of stiffening material or fabric behind it.The strap doesn't need to be tight, but it shouldn't be sagging either. When the cod has something rigid to maintain it's shape, then it doesn't crumple as much from the strap.

Check this post for all kinds of tips. Velcro is your friend.

Also, don't forget 1/8" aluminum backing plates or your rivets will just pull through.

The rotating area around the bolts is a high stress point. I tell folks to avoid opening the helmet all the way, as it will stress and eventually crack the visor shroud around where the bolts mount. Check out this thread for some tips on securing your costume: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Also, your cod looks pretty thin. You might need to add some stiffening material to it down the line, but for now focus on getting everything sized and positioned properly. Check this thread: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/ Your bund does look long, but I would not try to alter it with a handheld sewing machine. If you have a garrison mate with a table sewing machine who is willing to help, then that might be an option. Or if you want to buy a sewing machine and learn how to do some basic sewing, then that's an option as well. Otherwise, look at local alterations or dry cleaning shops near you to get it adjusted. If you've got more questions -- let us know.

If you compare your trimming against the scoutopedia, I'd say you're in the right ballpark.

Note that if you need to make a small bridge for the belt webbing, then the extension will need to be fully concealed by the thermal detonator box. If it's at all visible, then you'll need to replace the webbing with a longer length.

You have SC armor, correct? Is there still a shelf like bump on the back, near the top of the rear armor? You should be able to run your rivet through the tank topper, through the tank, and through the bump on the back to affix the tank. Edit: Looks like your armor is from Creative Studios? Looks a whole lot like Studio Creations armor, so I'm curious if you rear armor has a bump for mounting the tank. If not, you can mount it like we used to do it on the old days, which was to mount a L shaped bracket to hold the tank in place. Check the post from 11 July 2012 in Pandatroopers scout build:

Some vendors offer armor that is better suited to larger or smaller folks, but generally it is one size fits all. You may need to trim some parts to fit. Of the US-based vendors, for most body sizes, Studio Creations will fit just fine. If you have a small to medium build, then Mon Cal/Far Away Creations would work as well. For the scout soft parts, most vendors will absolutely ask for your measurements. For the hard parts, they don't build them that way.

Have you seen this post?

A big difference. Nice work.