Chopper

A word of warning on sanding print resin, or any resin, really. Resin dust is toxic. Make sure you're doing it in a ventilated space, or outside, and wearing a respirator with a P100 particulate matter filter. Wet sanding helps as well. As for the photos you posted, I can't see any obvious print lines that would be an issue.

To answer your question about print lines -- the expectation is that 3D printed armor should appear as the ABS plastic used for ROTJ. That means fully finished with no print lines. Will your GML ask for close up photos? That's their call. Will very small lines make a difference? Maybe? Post a photo and we can give your our opinion, but in the end it's the local GML that does basic approval.

Tagging @MrPoopie

If we can't see it, then it doesn't matter. If you look at the CRL photo, the attachment points are hidden behind the detonator box. As an example, I didn't sew my attachment points on, I used snaps. You can't see them, so it's no problem. Do what works for you, as long as what's visible corresponds with the CRL.

Then you should be good.

It doesn't look too thick to me. How much padding did you add?

It's unfortunate that KS wants you to return the whole helmet. There are some options to fix the helmet, and yes, it will involve some work. Your other option is to return it and get a replacement that hopefully has a better pull on the back. Some guidance -- give the thread below a read, because we see a lot of troopers get caught up with Level 2 issues, when they haven't even gotten basic approval yet. Get cleared first!

Check out Dennis' WIP here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/page/2/

Disregard my last. Sorry, you caught me early . Yes, those must match too. I apologize for any confusion.

So KS told you to return the entire helmet b/c of a bad pull on one part? If it's visible then yeah, it would be an issue for L2. I do think it's definitely fixable. Were you planning on paining the helmet white first? Sand it and use some surface filler, then paint. You could also sand the streaks down and then buff the area with increasingly higher grits to get it back to a polish. You'd need to invest in getting the kits below and do a lot of wet sanding. https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-9x3-6-Automotive-Sanding/dp/B074VYL3M6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1EEKPT76OHEXQ&keywords=high+grit+sandpaper&qid=1707574368&sprefix=high+grit+sandpaper%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B08JJ35RYH/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1EEKPT76OHEXQ&keywords=high%2Bgrit%2Bsandpaper&qid=1707574368&sprefix=high%2Bgrit%2Bsandpaper%2Caps%2C279&sr=8-7&th=1

Yes to off-white on the side straps. The bridge covers should be white. From the CRL: If pouches are off-white, dropbox straps must be dyed to match. Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 38mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. Optional: Straps may be off-white if using off-white pouches/drop box straps.

The boot loops aren't required, but they are a nice optional addition.

Hi Justin, the seller told you the truth -- if your intention is for 501st approval, then unfortunately the armor you purchased is not going to work. If your goal is just to costume and have a great time at cons and such, then by all means go for it! But if joining the 501st is your goal, then I recommend you look at getting a new set of armor. A lot of US based folks get their kits from Studio Creations. https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_trimmedarmorkit.html Sorry I can't bring better news. Please let us know if you need any further help on your scout journey.

As an armorer, I can confirm that the chin strap and chin cup are optional.

The Kropserkel helmet is fine for Level 2/Lancer, requiring only some very minor mods. The rest of their armor won't clear Level 2/Lancer. See here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

The webbing you linked should work. If the shade is still too light, you can try tea dying the webbing after you receive it.

In general, please don't use steel rivets on any armor builds, be it pulled abs or printed. As you've discovered, they are a beast to remove.

FYI, on the blaster those screws should be more flush with the plate.

Thank you, Tim. Pathfinders Command is currently discussing the matter.

If it's covered up and not visible then it should not be an issue.

As a FYI, please note this post which outlines the issues with the GA files:

Nice. Just make sure you give the paste time to completely dry (24 hours or more), or else it can be tough to work with.

If you paint the scope as is black, then you will be fine. There is no reason to add the clear plastic lens included in the kit. The point of including the CRL comment about the lens was because people were making the scope into an actual scope, which wasn't the case in ROTJ.

Congrats!

Yes. From the CRL: