Chopper

That center divot can be a weak point the armor. You can fix that temporarily, but once you have a crack that size, it's just a matter of time until it breaks again. First, you're going to need to use a tiny drill bit and drill a hole at the top of the crack. This is to keep the crack from going any further. Get some sheet abs and trim it to cover the crack from the inside of the armor. That's your splint. Use a heat gun if you need it to form the abs splint as needed to fit where the crack is. Glue the abs splint to the inside of the armor using devcon plastic weld. Then you're going to need to make some abs paste to fill the crack. Once it's dry, you can sand it down. IMO with a crack that big, I just don't think any repair will last very long. It's just a part that's meant to flex -- that's why you see that "V" cut on the center bottom of the screen armor.

Congrats on your approval

Can you post a screenshot of what you're describing? It's locked behind a Facebook group.

We do not have unlimited photo hosting on the forums, so you'll have to use a hosting service. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/#comment-216514

The rings were narrower than that, but for the attachment you can just cut the whole buckle portion off. You just need to fold both ends over and secure them with chicago screws.

Either orientation is acceptable.

Dry cleaning uses solvents to clean the textiles, so I wouldn't use that as my first choice if you're concerned about the weathering. I've always hand washed my goods in the tub with cold water, a little bit of woolite, and then just let everything air dry.

Yes it does. Under the chest armor and sits on top of the belt.

Most people use gray pool or vacuum tubing in the proper size, but you usually have to buy more than you need. I would email Jeff at Studio Creations to see if he'll sell you a gray section of tubing. That way you won't have to paint the yellow tubing and have it chip and rub off on your armor and soft goods. jeffallen at studiocreations dot com

Did the vendor you purchased your kit from not send any det tubing with your kit?

Are you talking about the clips for the belt detonator?

Common stress areas are the center top and bottom of the chest plate, the single rivet point on the sides of the belt, and the riveted corners of the holster.

The cup is optional and you are not required to use it. The elastic is threaded through two cuts in the sides of the helmet "jowls". The elastic is then threaded through the center of the chin cup.

Military Double Prong Canvas Belt, Heavy Duty Army Pistol Grommet Two Hole 1.75" (Khaki - Size X-Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1915MX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ErRcEbBNV3M5G

That looks good.

I think that should work.

I'd add a bit more space at the bottom, maybe another `1/4", especially if you intend to add the "V" cut that some troopers add. The "V" cut is also a stress point, so it will need some reinforcement on the back end.

You can contact Mr. Paul via his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

@Aradun

Looks like the RWA has a one piece visor, but is otherwise similar to the 5 piece helmet builds. RS has a pretty in-depth series of build videos that you might want to take a look at:

The rivet is meant to hold the 1/2" tank elastic, which is optional. If you don't use the elastic, then yes it is decorative. The screen tanks flopped around a lot, but if you would prefer to anchor yours down so it doesn't move, then yes, you can rivet it to the back armor. Just make sure you don't need to take it off for any reason first.

This color should work: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249088-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZO

There is no requirement to have a ratcheting mechanism to hold the face plate up, nor is there any requirement to show your face in clearance photos by ratcheting the face plate up. It's a convenience, sure, but the ratcheting is actually a stress point and can form cracks in the visor shroud over time anyhow, so I wouldn't worry too much about not having it. For clearance you can just take a photo with your helmet off.

Yes the tubing should be about the same color as the other parts.

Your initial mock up looks pretty decent so far. Just a few notes and answers to your questions. 3: Correct. Your bund should sit on top of your belt, not tucked in. Can you raise it any further without it sitting above your side straps? 4: L2 of the CRL calls for "Vest sleeves extend no further than 1.5 inches past the bottom edge of the shoulder bell." Your current sleeves look anywhere from 2-2.5" longer than the bells. Pin them up about an inch shorter and see how it looks. 5: There is not specific measurement for the TD or boots. They are meant to be proportional to your body. The TD looks generally about right, though I recommend you get rid of that silver tubing and replace it with some gray tubing of a similar size, or you can paint it gray. Your boots look approximately 2" too long, at least as well as I can eyeball it from the photo. 6: The black greebs look fine. The gray greebs will need to be painted the proper medium or neutral gray color. Try and get your pouches to align with the edges of of the chest armor. The drop box straps in the rear should meet approximately in the center. Reference the CRL photo: