Chopper

For 501st clearance at either level, it doesn't really matter how it looks on the inside, where it can't be seen. That said, it will be both easier and more in line with what they did in the films for you to just rivet the elastic + washer to the tank, and leave it separate from the back plate.

Check this post: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/

Welcome Jorge. Your work with scale models should serve you well on your scout journey. You mentioned that you have as skinny build, so it might be advantageous to read through @woobiee's build thread, as he had a slimmer build as well, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22381-woobiee-1st-and-new-build-lancer-probably/ You don't need to do everything that he did, but some of the adjustments may be helpful as you work to get the best fit for your scout costume. And if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. We're here to help.

Instructions on how to apply for Level 2/ Lancer is in the link below. There's also some general guidance on common issues that have come up in the apps over time. As to specific issues that you will need to fix -- due to the time involved in a Lancer review, we don't offer "pre-reviews". The best way to find out what to fix is to apply! http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20150-lancer-deployment-request-rev-2022/

Okay thanks, I see what you mean. And to clarify, your pouches are the standard 6x5x2 size?

I would center the rivet on the flat edge and move it slightly closer to the indent. See screen reference photo below for an idea of where to position it on the knee armor.

Can you post the progress photo here and we'll take a look? It doesn't need to be fully kitted up for us to get a sense of the pouch spacing.

For the black, I would use either primer black or flat black. For the grey, you want to try and find a shade that just about matches the helmet decals. Depending on the brands available near you, you want a medium or neutral gray color. Again, you also want a flat or matte finish.

That's an awesome looking photo shoot. Thanks so much for sharing them.

You have several options: You can cut out part of the "shelf" on the back armor, so you can fit the rivet gun underneath. You won't be able to see the shelf under the tank anyhow. Or you can punch a rivet and washer through some scrap plastic and then cut away the plastic, leaving only the rivet and washer. Then you can glue that onto the tank topper, giving the appearance of it being riveted.

You rivet it from the inside of the tank. The part of the rivet that compresses should be on the tank topper side with the washer. The part of the rivet that breaks off should be on the inside of the tank.

Congrats on your approval.

Yes, a washer is the best way to keep the holster rivets from popping out. Don't worry too much about the brown thread, if you ever want to cover it up, you should be able to do so with a very thin paintbrush and some white acrylic paint.

Thanks Arne, yeah I agree!

This set up looks solid. Yes you can trim a little off the back bridge to bring it into position.

I think you should be just fine for clearance. Good luck!

Some people have used magnets. Others just get those small velcro circles from the hardware store, which will work as well.

I think the 1" overlap is better. Your front photo looks fine, but your back piece is a bit low with no overlap.

Nice work. For basic clearance, nothing major stands out to me. I think you need to raise your butt flap up about 1.5 - 2 inches, but your local garrison may be okay with where it is right now for Level 1.

Congrats!

Looks great. Nice work.

You don't need to overlap them, though that does help when you're trying to fit the armor to your body size. Usually we overlap the shoulder bridge tabs, throw some tape on there, and check the fit. If it's good, you can trim them flush to one another if needed. If you do choose to build it by putting the bridges end to end, then we usually have a strip of velcro on the underside, which keeps them together, but also allows for some flex.

You can see the velcro stitching on the screen costumes. It's not an issue. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/05. Chest Armor/MOTM_10999.jpg Options to keep the codpiece from crumpling involve backing with buckram, or 1/8" foam. Part of the trick is also to make sure it's positioned in front of you when worn, and not pulled through your legs. The KS YouTube video works pretty well as a studio creations assembly guide. If you have any questions while you're building, just ask away and we'll get you sorted.

Looks solid.

Hey Pathfinders! Since the question has been raised a few times, I just wanted to mention that we are currently allowing either the mandarin flap or folded collar types for Level 2/Lancer.