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Chopper

Command Staff
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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. I would interpret it as the bottom edge of the belt. That said, the CRL states: "Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt." It's not an exact measurement, so your drop boxes should be good where they are. Your chalk marks on the butt flap look good.
  2. I removed mine, but it's entirely up to you.
  3. Okay thanks for clarifying. Unfortunately, that stitch pattern is not going to pass for Level 2/Lancer if it's on the visible side. IMO, I'd say no for Level 1/Basic clearance as well, but ultimately that decision is a local one. The only other major item I see offhand for Level 2 is that your butt flap looks a bit long and wide. Guessing maybe an inch and a half on each edge? Try marking it with chalk before cutting. Check yours vs the CRL rear photo: Overall, a solid job.
  4. Is that x pattern stitch on the inside or the visible exterior side?
  5. Hey Garrett, The WTF armor kit is one of the larger scout kits out there, but it's also the armor they used in the Mando tv show, so it'll work. That said, it doesn't look inordinately oversized on you. I think you should hold off on trimming the shoulder bridges for now, but I do agree that you could take a little off of the sides of the chest armor. Check the screenshot below. I would also look at trimming down the bottom edge of the chest armor a bit as well to match the reference shot.
  6. There isn't a hard rule on the offset for Level 2. As long as it isn't more than about inch or so, then it'd be fine. Post a photo and I can let you know for sure though.
  7. Have you checked in with @Chrisx909x? There's also KriptonTop on Etsy.
  8. Congrats again! And, once you get your numbers, don't forget to request Pathfinder access here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/162-access-requests/ And start a troop log, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/141-pathfinder-trooping-awards/
  9. It doesn't need to be Gorilla Glue specifically. CA glue is cyanoacrylate, commonly sold as crazy glue or super glue (and others). It is usually clear and is different from fabric glue.
  10. Indeed I think you're there. Congrats on a great build!
  11. I think you're pretty much there. Maybe bring in your left/photo right chest pouch in slightly. Also, center your drop box buckles on the strap on the back side. The front looks fine. Nice work.
  12. That's totally fine. What we can't see on the outside comes down to personal preference and what works best for you.
  13. I would start by taking off an additional 1/8" from the edge, yes. Check the return edge example from the video in the photo below and aim for that.
  14. If you're looking to polish the helmet, then a lot of the stormtroopers use this: https://www.novuspolish.com/ Looks like it's distributed in germany, though I"m not sure how much the small bottles would cost there: https://www.novuspolish.com/international_distributors.html
  15. Hi Adam, if you haven't already, take a look at the Kropserkel build video on youtube, linked below. It has pretty good resolution, so that might help give you a sense of your questions about the return edges. Just looking at your photos, I think your eyeslot is pretty much there. I'd open it a little bit more -- doesn't need much though. There is usually a slight return edge on the back of the sides of visor -- it shouldn't be totally gone. The screen used helmets had a flat return edge -- it did not curve back in towards the face. That is a particularity specific to the Kropserkel helmet. Most Kropserkel helmets I've seen do have a slight return edge that comes back towards the faceplate, but what's in the video is fairly un-noticeable. There are some parts of the video that can be done better, like the mesh in the ears (leave it out), the decal on the snout (paint it instead), and the rotator bolt (use the 3M versions).
  16. I can't speak to the speed or delivery times of that vendor, but the model for the 19X looks fine. The EC17 will likely be okay for basic clearance, but will not pass Level 2/Lancer, if that's important to you.
  17. I would go with position 2 for the tank topper. For the pin stripes, we don't have perfect exact measurements. Just try to get it close to the photo:
  18. Blasters are somewhat tricky to get right now, if you can't go the 3D route, or don't know anyone who is willing to print for you. Our primary blaster seller, DVH, sold his molds a few years ago and the buyer hasn't started producing anything yet. Etsy is a big of a mixed bag, like any marketplace. Some models are decent, some...less so. What one's were you looking at on Etsy?
  19. For Level 1, polyester strapping is fine. For Level 2, the CRL says you have the option of: 1) 1.5" white cotton webbing 2) 1.5" white elastic 3) 1.5" off-white cotton webbing, if you also use off white webbing on the drop box straps and have off-white pouches https://www.etsy.com/listing/1208398829/white-cotton-1-inch-25mm-or-15-inch-38mm
  20. For Level 1 they don't even need to be 1.5", the CRL just says "The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with white webbing." You could use 1.25" if you wanted. For Level 2 Lancer, it would need to appear as straight 1.5" webbing. The trimmed areas would need to be positioned so that the tapered part does not show.
  21. Yes, that's correct about the tank topper washer. You can do either for the rectangle. If you already have a scrap of gray adhesive vinyl in hand, then that's generally the easier way to go.
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