Chopper

Gluing the tank is not required and isn't something that everyone does in their builds. The screen tanks flopped all over the place! If you use the 1/2" elastic strapping and also rivet the tank topper through the shelf that comes on the SC back armor, then it should be secure enough. That bottom rivet was meant to retain the 1/2" elastic strapping.

Take a look at the post dated 11 May 2017 in this link: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/page/2/#comments and this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2be0cuCSoLQ&feature=youtu.be Also, instead of standard rattlecans, I like to use Tamiya TS-14 black spray paint. It has a finer spray mist that's closer to an airbrush. If you want to use a standard flat black rattlecan from the hardware store, that's fine too though. https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM85014-Spray-Lacquer-TS-14/dp/B0013TFXJK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13GSAV2TR3CUO&keywords=tamiya+flat+black+spray&qid=1674564619&sprefix=tamiya+flat+black+spray%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-2

Hey FYI the photos aren't displaying. Where are you hosting them?

The front riding patch pattern in the photo should work just fine. How does it look in the back?

Congrats Peter

I've seen people get pretty close when carving their boots, so if that's the way that you want to go, then it's definitely possible. It's just a matter of skill and patience and depends on how much time you want to put into that specific aspect of the costume.

Greetings Stefan, it seems like you're on the right track. Yes, any black coverall would work, as long as you make the required adjustments, such a removing the pockets, etc. @OnkelPaschulke would you be willing to help Stefan with locating some base boots and coveralls that could be purchased locally? If you want super accurate soles, there's also CrowProps, who makes a biker scout underboot using the Sierra style sole. He is in South America and I am not sure what shipping would be to Germany, but he's pretty responsive to email and facebook messages I you want to ask. https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-long-boots-with-accurate-soles-white-black https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

Good luck Jorge. Let us know how it goes.

Your rivet placement looks fine to me. Also, I did the same reinforcement on my bicep armor too and it has held up well over the years.

Yeah I can see it now, thanks. Looks good.

The photo hosting for the forums is unfortunately limited, since we can't pay for infinite storage space. Most folks use sites like dropbox or imgur to host their photos. See thread linked below.

FYI, the photo of your pouch isn't showing up, Kevin.

I think the 3D printed one fits better and it's a more accurate model than the hyperfirm blaster as well

The strap is not listed in any of the CRLs that include the DLT-19 or 19X, so officially it's not allowed. There are times when, as Retrofire says, the local GML or Commander may authorize you using a strap. So if your GML and Commander are okay with using a strap on your DLT for trooping events, then you're okay to do so.

Yeah that's the way I did it. Sticky velcro on the plastic parts and the non-stick velcro sewn onto the strapping.

Attaching fabric to plastic with glue doesn't always work so well, as you've discovered. The fabric usually just absorbs most of the glue and the bond isn't great. Most folks use the adhesive velcro type, which works fine as long as the surface is clean and smooth. What part are you trying to attach the velcro to?

How are you thinking of securing the flap, if not by velcro?

Hi Nathan, initial approval for 501st costumes is through your garrison membership liaison, also called a GML. I would reach out to yours via email and they can help guide you through the steps for entry to the 501st. Looks like the contact info is here: GML -- Timothy J Boyle(TB 7079), FL501STGML@gmail.com https://www.501st.com/members/garrisonroster.php?garrisonId=9 You might also want to sign up for their forums as well: https://www.fl501st.com/boards/index.php

Thanks Lou, yeah I think that material would work just fine in black for the flak vest.

We don't really ever see the vest super clearly in the film or production photos, which is why it's not very specific in the CRL: "black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric." Canvas is made from cotton, so it would depend on what you're working with. Do you have any photos of the material you're looking to use? And as a note about the bund material, the CRL for level 2 states: "Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted."

The 1/8" measurement is not for the flange, it's the center indent portion. There was a period where certain vendors were including rivets that had gigantic flanges, so, as a result we had to include the proper rivet size in the CRL. This might help:

The visor doesn't have to flip up 90s degrees. We never see them flipped up on screen so there's no standard for it. I think mine *can* go up to 90 degrees but i rarely ever bring it up more than 45, like if I need to drink water or something, and I don't ever try to lock it in place. The rotator bolts are a major stress point on the plastic, especially when the visor is flipped up, so I try to avoid it if I can. The top edge of the face plate should not rub against the top of the helmet, there should be enough clearance for it to move up cleanly. The WTF is going to be it's own thing in terms of dimensions, but you can get a sense of what the screen helmets looked like from the top, here:

Hey Pete, yeah usually folks either trim that lip at bit and fit it into the slot, or they trim the edge off entirely and glue it in place. Either works and the exterior end result is the same. Same with affixing the front end. I believe SC uses rivets, but others use a permanent bond cement, like the Oatey ABS cement, to glue it in place.

Nice work, Kevin. Your overlap in the back looks like it's more than it needs to be? Hard to tell without a straight on photo of the back. It should be about centered in the back and the overlap should be 1", which corresponds to the velcro strip.

I don't see the red label currently listed on the RS website, just the ABS one, so you may need to ask them via email if it's still offered.