Chopper

From what I can see, your cuts look fine. You might want to pick up some Lexan Scissors as that gives you a bit more control versus using a dremel. From Amazon.de: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Llexan-Scissors-Curved-Plastic-Vehicle/dp/B07XRHHB4Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29Q8HT871DON8&keywords=lexan+schere&qid=1677345869&sprefix=lexan+scissor%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Scissors-Curved-Model-Body-Cutting/dp/B07BT7LN86/ref=sr_1_1?crid=29Q8HT871DON8&keywords=lexan+schere&qid=1677345869&sprefix=lexan+scissor%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1

A Lancer deployment cannot be submitted until you have basic approval through your garrison. You can ask general questions about your build in your WIP, but note that the Level 2/Lancer review process involves a multiple person review team and can take some time to complete the assessment. For that reason, we do not do Lancer "pre-reviews".

That washer appears to be too big. You want something smaller, like in the photo below. Note that the washer is smaller than the white circle, while in your photo they're close to being the same size. You want something that's about this size. Note that this is not an exact measurement requirement and it is not stipulated as such in the CRL. I'm just trying to give you a sense of scale. This washer I used is a back up plate, as came in a pack of these: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivet-backup-plates/2014215 If you have an Ace or TrueValue hardware store near you, they usually have a section where you can but loose nuts, bolts, screws, and washers. You should be able to get a similarly sized washer for about .07 or .08 cents.

I don't think suspenders will work, since for the mando scout there's going to be a gap between the chest armor and the bund, so they'll show. The mando scout bund basically hangs on the belt by the pouches. I'd see how it all feels first, but once you have everything positioned right, if it's still dropping then you could put some velcro on the belt and bund and as long as your belt isn't dropping as well, then it should hold together okay.

Hah! Well thanks for checking with us. We appreciate it!

Hmmm yeah, you can double check with your local GML, but I think the sole and heel might be too thick to work effectively for a scout boot.

Acrylic weathering, once dry, is usually tough enough that you shouldn't need to put a clear coat over it. The only thing that'll strip it off is 90% iso alcohol, so it should be fine if it gets a little wet or anything like that. Any scrapes from armor parts bonking against each other are just...weathering! You shouldn't need to lay down a white base layer first. You should just be able to build up layers of weathering in a gradual process onto the plastic itself. Sometimes a very light wet sand with 1200 grit can help the paint stick, but the key is to keep it light.

Yes, the 4 bars are double the width of the 6 bar stripe width. The trapezoid should only be present if you're using the 4 bars. I made mine using one of the standard bars and I used an exacto knife and ruler to cut the ends to shape.

Looks like you're well on your way. If you're doing a Mando Scout with a goal of Level 2, then you can skip the imperial boots footwear and save yourself some additional cash. There's a number of issues with them that are not easily corrected for Level 2. You're building your own boots, so there's no reason that you shouldn't be able to build them to the standard of Mando Scout Level 2.

Hi Z, I think that's too much trimming off the bottom of the chest armor. I'd add about 3/4" to 1" more from where your line is. There was some lip on the screen used armor, as in the photos below: You might also want to read through these threads: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/22685-a-few-words-about-level-2-and-new-recruits/#comment-211804

My bin is tall enough that I can fit my chest and back armor vertically. Some folks separate and stack their chest and back armor, but that also depends on how you've done your build. You might want to check these threads for some ideas on packing and storage bins: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21153-packing-for-deployment/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21254-bin-size-for-scout-goods/#comment-194491 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23213-best-storage-box-scout/#comment-218360 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/22937-suitcase-looking-for-ideas-help/#comment-215077

Both Studio Creations and the 7CS helmet are approvable, provided they are constructed and painted correctly. The Studio Creations helmet runs a little smaller, so if you have a large head, then there are other options out there. The 7CS helmet uses Lone Wolf helmet/LW sculpt with permission, which up until the RS helmet came out, was considered one of the best helmets out there. Lou does a great job. You might also want to look at this thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23117-ultimate-helmet-comparison-thread/#comment-91027

I would go for a Kropserkel or Studio Creations helmet before getting the Cyber Craft helmet. The Cyber Craft helmet has a considerable number of inaccuracies. The Kropserkel helmet does fit larger heads, but most anyone can wear it without it looking oversized or off scale.

We have pretty much zero photos of what the front side opening of the flak vest looked like on the production suits, so we're not all that critical about the shape of the neck. It should be primarily under the chest armor anyhow. The only real issue to be mindful of with the flak vest opening is to make sure that it doesn't extend beyond your shoulder bridges.

Will E6000 work on plastic? Yes. E6000 works well for gluing two materials that won't bond well, or things that you might need to slightly reposition, like resin greeblies on plastic. For the purpose you're talking about though, which is ABS on ABS reinforcement, I wouldn't use E6000. Ideally you want the plastic to bond to itself. I would try and find some ABS cement at the hardware store for a better, more permanent bond. I don't know what the equivalent is in Germany, (@OnkelPaschulke do you know?) but this is what we use in the states: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/solvents-and-cements/pvc-cement/4039426?store=16714&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7xIYDsjId-sKMJN1Qui0j4xglynuJHw6-txn77tpJHbl5dXiATsadBoClPAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Congrats!

Correct

Congrats Carl!

Hi Robert, for basic clearance I cannot see anything that might be an issue. Nice work with your build.

Specifics on required mods would need to come from the responsible detachments, in this case Whitearmor for the TKs. Speaking generally, some black series helmets are closer in accuracy than others, but I believe all of them require some amount of modifications for 501st approval.

I know some people use this stuff, which is designed for swimming goggles: https://ekusa.com/product/cat-crap/

What's your goal? Is it for 501st Legion approval, or just cosplay?

Looks great. Happy to help.

Hey, yes that washer looks too big. Do you have an Ace Hardware near you or TrueValue? They usually have a loose nuts and bolts section where you should be able to find a smaller washer to fit with the 1/8" rivet. Will prob cost you about .10 cents. Do you have the backing plates that go with your 1/8" rivets? That should work.

The gaps you have between your back and tank armor are totally fine. No need to do any more with the fit.