Chopper

What's your goal? Is it for 501st Legion approval, or just cosplay?

Looks great. Happy to help.

Hey, yes that washer looks too big. Do you have an Ace Hardware near you or TrueValue? They usually have a loose nuts and bolts section where you should be able to find a smaller washer to fit with the 1/8" rivet. Will prob cost you about .10 cents. Do you have the backing plates that go with your 1/8" rivets? That should work.

The gaps you have between your back and tank armor are totally fine. No need to do any more with the fit.

Good luck on your application, Carl.

Thank you for the composite image, Andrew. Yes, the armory team is currently looking at the recently released photos of the Black Series Scout helmet. It does look promising, but we'll prob have more detailed feedback once we get closer to seeing the in-hand reviews.

Just to be clear, "Lancer" is not just about the materials and the craftsmanship, it's also about how it fits on you. Generally though, yes -- that boot, with the cuts, and with vinyl coverings that fit properly in proportion to the rest of your costume, should have what it takes for Lancer clearance. Your marked pattern looks okay. Just remember that the cuts don't need to be all that deep. The depth you made them on the heel is just fine.

Hi, these are the rivets you should be looking for: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014041?store=16714&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz9ieBhCIARIsACB0oGJeVuTTk2MBfU8bN5tqhKElm_laoCCP73A-yxRO9NpvqeB1BlSvaSAaAmM5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The Cybercraft helmet is not true to shape of the original helmet and has a considerable number of inaccuracies. With many other good helmet options available, I advise against purchasing that helmet.

The boots you were using as a base seem fine. The Level 1 and 2 requirements for the base boots are: The soles of the boot are tan. The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film. The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching.

Hi Victoria, I think the cuts your did on your heel look great. My option on the forefoot cuts though is that the big chunks you cut out are going to be an issue for level 2. The boot cuts for Level 2 don't need to exactly match the Sierra Sneaker sole, they don't even need to match the length of each cut in the pattern. If you had done the shallow cuts, like you did on your heel, then you would've been a-ok. The boots don't need cuts for basic approval, so GML dependent, you might be alright there. If your goal is to prep for Level 2 as much as practicable, then that's my take so far. We're here to help, so stay motivated!

Congrats!

Thank you very much Donovon for adding your review.

Good luck, Nate.

I would do the final fitting and heat shaping after trimming, though some of it may be a bit of back and forth. Trim a little, fit the part. Trim a little more, fit the part, etc. Doesn't matter so much for slot cutting, but I'd prob do it after shaping. Did you get some lexan scissors? Those can work better for cutting in some scenarios vs the dremel.

Looks good.

I wouldn't use tea to dye all of your softgoods. And you don't even need to tea dye your pouches and straps if you're going to mist weather your armor -- it's an option but not a requirement. The color differences are really minor, if you look at the photo below. There was some spray mist weathering on the ROTJ soft goods as well, again in the photo below, which you can try, but you need to be real careful. The soft goods should have less weathering than the armor portions.

Gluing the tank is not required and isn't something that everyone does in their builds. The screen tanks flopped all over the place! If you use the 1/2" elastic strapping and also rivet the tank topper through the shelf that comes on the SC back armor, then it should be secure enough. That bottom rivet was meant to retain the 1/2" elastic strapping.

Take a look at the post dated 11 May 2017 in this link: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/page/2/#comments and this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2be0cuCSoLQ&feature=youtu.be Also, instead of standard rattlecans, I like to use Tamiya TS-14 black spray paint. It has a finer spray mist that's closer to an airbrush. If you want to use a standard flat black rattlecan from the hardware store, that's fine too though. https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM85014-Spray-Lacquer-TS-14/dp/B0013TFXJK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=13GSAV2TR3CUO&keywords=tamiya+flat+black+spray&qid=1674564619&sprefix=tamiya+flat+black+spray%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-2

Hey FYI the photos aren't displaying. Where are you hosting them?

The front riding patch pattern in the photo should work just fine. How does it look in the back?

Congrats Peter

I've seen people get pretty close when carving their boots, so if that's the way that you want to go, then it's definitely possible. It's just a matter of skill and patience and depends on how much time you want to put into that specific aspect of the costume.

Greetings Stefan, it seems like you're on the right track. Yes, any black coverall would work, as long as you make the required adjustments, such a removing the pockets, etc. @OnkelPaschulke would you be willing to help Stefan with locating some base boots and coveralls that could be purchased locally? If you want super accurate soles, there's also CrowProps, who makes a biker scout underboot using the Sierra style sole. He is in South America and I am not sure what shipping would be to Germany, but he's pretty responsive to email and facebook messages I you want to ask. https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-shadow-scout-long-boots-with-accurate-soles-white-black https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/biker-base-boots-accurate-soles

Good luck Jorge. Let us know how it goes.