Chopper

I only see two primary items for basic clearance, which I've marked in the attached photos. 1) In back you need to make sure your bund is tucked underneath your back armor 2) You should center and slightly lower your belt a bit Overall, good job. Once those items are fixed, I'm sure you should get your approval soon.

Ah, ok. Then this thread is what you're looking for:

If you're interested in what mods are required to clear other black series helmets, then you'll need to go to the respective detachments or organizations for that info. FISD for Stormtroopers, Rebel Legion for X-Wing helmet, etc.

The armory team has been reviewing it as more reveals have come out -- there are a number of seams, gaps, and cuts that would need to be filled, including, but not limited to, the battery compartment panel and the cuts in the gray "decal" sections. We were planning on doing a thread covering what needs to be done to clear it for basic once we have one in hand. Until we actually have a production copy in our hands though, the most we can say is that it will definitely need some modifications to clear basic.

For ROTJ costume, most of us use a misting technique with a rattlecan. This is tricky though, because it's easy to overweather and that's not ideal. With weathering on the ROTJ scout, less is more. Check this video and the post from 11 May 2017 in the thread below:

I only advised leaving on about 1mm in order to give you some leeway for trimming and shaping, but yes, what you have marked now is too much. Try trimming to about where I've marked in green.

Commercial photos are usually tweaked with photo editing software, so it depends how they actually appear once they arrive. If the sole in fact appears to be one color, then you should be fine for Level 2. If there's a color difference once you have them in person, then you'd need to use some acrylic paint to make the soles the correct "wheat" color.

I think that marking line is too close. I would back it up maybe 1mm to 1.5mm. If you feel you need to trim more to get the proper bend at that point, then you can always trim more.

Those cuts marks should work a-ok. Remember that the depth of the cuts don't need to be super deep -- we're talking about 1/8" at most.

Flat or semi-gloss black is fine.

Looks great

The studio creations holster attachment plate can be oversized for some folks, so yes, I think your rivet placement and intended trimming looks fine. As for attaching the side part of the holster to the attachment plate with reversed rivets -- that's fine, as long as they aren't externally obvious. Your other option would be to glue it with abs cement.

I think that should be fine.

The only requirement in the CRL for the vest material is that it is made out of "black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric." I think the only question I would have about the fabric you posted is whether or not it'd be considered "heavyweight". If it's a lightweight cotton, then you'd need something different.

Hey, the leg shape looks right to me for both examples. It should ideally be slightly fitted, which is how it appears in your photos. You'd need to update the riding patch on the inside of the legs for the second example. Also, the fabric sample you posted shouldn't be an issue. Should be a-ok.

Emphasis mine, but this will entirely depend on what material you printed in. People print in PLA because it's pretty forgiving and prints at low temperatures, but those same properties also mean that it's susceptible to deforming in the heat, which means direct sunlight, keeping it in a car, etc. PETG takes a bit more effort to dial in, but prints at a higher temperature and is therefore more durable and resistant to heat deformation, etc.

I checked out the photo links. Did the masking tape pull the paint right off the helmet? The right side lower gap looks like an assembly alignment issue. I don't think there's any more adjusting you can do on your end that'll alter that. The real helmets had gaps near the base of the helmet anyhow, so I believe you'll be okay for basic.

Hiya, welcome to the pathfinders forums. I'm glad you asked us before buying anything because the WTF armor is most definitely not smaller. The chest and back armor runs on the larger size and, on top of that, has a fair number of inaccuracies for the ROTJ scout. The smallest armor currently available is from Mon Cal/Far Away Creations, but you'll likely still need to do some trimming and shaping to make it fit your size. https://www.etsy.com/market/far_away_creations The chest and back armor on Studio Creations is larger than with Mon Cal/Far Away Creations, but their shoulder bells, biceps, knee, and forearm armor are smaller. https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/bike_armorforsale.html There are few shorter folks who have re-sized their armor -- @shashachu and @jennyruth are two recent troopers who've made great looking scouts.

I used a piece of 3mm volara foam for mine. I think Mickey used buckram for his. Either will work, as long as the end result looks decent.

That color looks good.

Looks good so far.

Have you already tried overlapping the ends of the bridges a bit, then taping them to check the fit? If the fit is good, once taped and verified, then you can trim the bridge ends a bit.

Hi, unfortunately the paint color you've chosen for your boots is now too light. You're looking for a "wheat" color that's close to the color of the boots in the CRL image, below. Your shoulder bridges are nearly there. I can't tell if it's the way you're standing, or the angle, but is one side uneven and bent more/less than the other?

Yes and yes!

I've never needed fans in the DC/MD/VA region with my scout helmet. The ventilation with the ear holes is pretty good, especially if you're moving around.