Chopper

I would take the side seams in a little bit to reduce the flare, if it's an easy fix for you to do.

Alright everyone, now that we have a helmet in hand, I wanted to share the armory team's review of the Black Series helmet. Overall, as Hask said, this is a pretty nice display helmet, but ultimately it is not appovable out of the box. Furthermore, there are some elements to the design that, even modified, would make it difficult, if not impossible, to approve for 501st use. Here's some of the major items we picked out in terms of 501st approval: Ear openings would need to be drilled out. Mesh on mic would need to be painted black. Any and all seams, such as those around the battery compartment and around the ears on the sides would need to be filled, sanded, and painted. You'd probably have to paint the whole helmet. Indented features or "vents" not present on the original helmets, such as the faceplate decals, the black parts of the rear traps, or the black bars on the lower rear, would need to be filled, sanded, painted, and replaced with the proper stickers or decals. Bottom edge of the face plate should be all white, not half black, half white. Rotator bolts have no indent and would need to match the 3M bolts (Level 2 criteria). And here's the big one: unfortunately, the inner part of the visor shroud is a major issue with the helmet. For approval, a helmet needs to be "true to the shape of original screen used helmet", which means that the inner portion of the visor should have a return edge. That's not the case here, as the inner portion of the visor shroud seems to be flush with the rim. Sorry folks. It does look nice on a shelf, but you should stick to the vetted vendors for 501st approval.

I marked the dimensions of the square in pencil, used a drill bit to core out the plastic inside where I'd marked, and then used a file for the rest..

Correct

For basic those will probably work. To my eyes, the item that might be an issue is the ridge/indent along the sides of the sole. My concern is that the white vinyl portion on the forefoot is going to look oddly oversized if you glue the vinyl down to the ridge area. Check and see if your GML is okay with it.

There's no defined length. The length of the TD in the back can vary, based on body size. Generally, the tubing spans about an inch or so inside the space between the plastic belt ends. Again, there's no specific rule because that can very depending on body size. That's also more of a Level 2 thing. Studio Creations sells replacement TD end caps. https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html If you want to purchase additional tubing, then you'll need to look for gray pool or vacuum hosing in a diameter that matches the opening in your TD. TD sizes vary, depending on the maker, so you'll need to check the measurements. I think 1.5" was is the hose inner diameter I used, but check it against your own gear. If you're already buying replacement end caps from Studio Creations, you could email Jeff and ask if he'd sell you a longer length of tubing.

I would dip a q-tip in some iso alcohol and see if that might remove the markings. Pick a very small, non obvious spot to try and test it and don't press hard with the q-tip.

Some people do, but I never found that I needed it.

For basic, I don't see a whole lot that needs addressing. Flip your knee armor over, unless you're planning on doing a mando scout. I'd raise your cod up maybe an inch, or an inch and a half. Also, you might want to add some more padding to your cod to get rid of the bunching.

To clarify, I was pointing out the alignment between the visor shroud and the face plate. If you remove the front portion of the helmet entirely, the face plate and the visor shroud should be relatively aligned around where I marked in green.

Thanks Mickey. The biggest issue I see is where the side of the face plate meets the sides of the visor. IMO the face plate needs to come back near the bottom on both sides, where I've marked in green, so that it better aligns.

You're good.

The tank? Yes, it looks fine from that angle. What about the other angles? Put a washer under that rivet.

I would encourage you to keep working the fit of the KS helmet. Just as a heads up -- the WTF helmet is probably the most difficult helmet to fit and build that's currently available.

What you have in the photos is fine.

Either way is fine.

@M.J or @gmrhodes13 can you help with some local Australian options?

Most accurate pistol available: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23632-the-return-of-the-classic-ec-17/ Note that the SC holster is oversized, so you'll need to use the integrated magnets to keep it in place.

I guess Jeff has changed it up then.

I would bring it in slightly. Here's some more ref photos for you. Note how the black doesn't totally cover the "edge" around the indent?

Doesn't Studio Creations send their boot holsters fully assembled? Has that changed? What's left to do on your detonator? In the photo it looks mostly done, except for gluing the greebs and adding the zip tie?

That whole portion should be black, though I advise you to get some flexible masking tape and then spraying it back, rather than trying to freehand. The snout portion is gray, with the exception of the aerator, which is black. This is the part I'm talking about: If you didn't get a part like that, then you might want to buy it from Studio Creations, here: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

You should be good with what you have.

It looks fine in your hand. How does it look when you're wearing it on your belt?

One quick note if you're going for 501st approval. I see that you used the snout decal. As per the CRL: "Snout recess is painted black". You'll need to mask and paint the area matte black.