Chopper

I would recommend against trying to lower your boots. As Pete said, they look fine as is and I wouldn't expect any issues with what you have right now.

I think that you're good for basic approval at this point. An additional refinement would be to bring in your shoulder bells slightly. Maybe an inch or so.

Personally, I would do resin, but it depends how much finishing and sanding you want to do. At 0.05 layer height I'd guess maybe one light coat of filler primer and you should be good. Can't hurt to try it first and if you're not happy, you can go with resin.

One other thing in addition to what Pete mentioned -- when you get your boxes adjusted, try and center the rear parachute buckles on the straps.

For 3D PETG prints I do a primer and sanding coat to remove the print lines using the gray Rusto Filler Sandable primer. Then, once the lines are gone I use Rusto Painters Touch White Primer and finally a coat with Rusto Painters Touch Gloss White.

That looks great.

Usually the outer piece is just held in place with a dry fit between the piece and the slot. You are welcome to glue it once it's fitted in place though. The cuts in the boot holster are a requirement in the ROTJ scout CRL, not the Mando Scout CRL. The WTF holster plate had ridges, but not cuts, so we recommend that you just leave it flat on the RS holster. If you choose to go with a Studio Creations holster in order to fit your hyperfirm blaster, those have ridges as well. There is no specified spacing from the edge. Use the Mando Scout CRL photos as a guide to eyeball the approximate spacing.

From the photos you posted earlier in the thread, it looks like your blaster is using the old hyperfirm molds, or a derived version of it. The hyperfirm scout blaster was significantly oversized width-wise, which is why it won't fit into the RS holster. You have several options: 1) Get a new blaster or 3D print a blaster that will fit the RS holster 2) Get a holster from Studio Creations, which is bigger and will fit the Hyperfirm blaster 3) Get approved without a blaster, as basic approval doesn't require one I'll address your questions from yesterday in a moment, standby.

There isn't much of a big dip on the side, that's more an effect from the curve of the part. See photos from scoutopedia and my own approximate markup in green.

The chest armor, bund, and belt placement looks okay to me. As a rule of thumb, I tell folks to try and position the top edge of the belt just under your navel. That's approximately where it should sit.

The thumb loop is not a requirement. It is optional. If you choose to include it, it is typically sewn in place between the velcro and the vinyl.

Yes, that looks about right.

The visor cut looks okay. Since there are a lot of different scout helmet vendors, each with different sculpts, we don't have exact standard measurements for the helmet cuts. Anything I could offer from the RS or screen used helmets wouldn't translate well to the WTF helmet. Where your pencil marks are now seem like a good place to start. You can get a decent sense of the specifics of the WTF helmet build in this thread, here:

Nice work Frank. One small item to note -- the rectangular detonator greeb should have that top indent removed. See photo from the CRL, below:

I can't speak to what kinds of paint are typically available in Australia, so I'll defer to @M.J for that, but flat, matte, or semi-glass black finish is just fine for the scout blaster. If you want a paint that won't rub off, then you should use spray paints.

Great job trimming the tank. Looks great. Green circle looks fine for the bottom rivet. Yes, you can trim along the the red line at the bottom if you'd like. The red cut line looks fine, but you might want to draw it in pencil first to double check.

I'd still encourage you to get a replacement tank topper from studio creations. The one that comes with the WTF kit is ridiculously oversized and the casting quality can be iffy as well. https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html From the CRL: Your local GML has final say on basic approval but IMO some of the scout stuff WTF supplies can push the limit.

Frank, just a quick clarification: For the Mando Scout, you should not be using a wrapped tube, or the cast wrapped tube that comes with the RS kit -- that's for the ROTJ scout. The CRL for the Mando Scout states: "Thermal detonator box with short corrugated hose attaches to the back of the belt". You should use some corrugated gray pool hose or vacuum tubing that's sized to fit with the RS detonator box.

Based on your photo, I would say that the shaft of your boot should be around 14 to 14.5" inches.

Ah okay. Yeah, the WTF pulls can be a bit hard to tell where to trim. I'd take a pencil and work on getting the bottom lip to match the bottom of the back armor, then transition to the sides.

Hm, I hate to say it, but you may have trimmed too much off the bottom of the tank. That lip on the bottom is meant to fit against the bottom edge of the back armor. See ref photo below. You might be able to angle it a bit, as I've marked in the photo. Go slow and take off a little at a time.

This forum does not have unlimited image storage capacity. You'll need to host images externally. See this thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/#comment-216514

Thanks Lou

One note -- the shoulder bridge covering you've id'd appears to be herringbone twill tape. I would not use twill tape if you're interested in Level 2/Lancer, though it's fine for basic. For Level 2 you want either white elastic or webbing. "Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of white cotton webbing or elastic."

The WTF helmet tends to be one of the most challenging scout helmets for people to put together. You might want to take a look at this thread for some decent build photos: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20405-tb-80225-wtf-helmet-build/#comment-185533