Chopper

Will E6000 work on plastic? Yes. E6000 works well for gluing two materials that won't bond well, or things that you might need to slightly reposition, like resin greeblies on plastic. For the purpose you're talking about though, which is ABS on ABS reinforcement, I wouldn't use E6000. Ideally you want the plastic to bond to itself. I would try and find some ABS cement at the hardware store for a better, more permanent bond. I don't know what the equivalent is in Germany, (@OnkelPaschulke do you know?) but this is what we use in the states: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/solvents-and-cements/pvc-cement/4039426?store=16714&gclid=CjwKCAiAuaKfBhBtEiwAht6H7xIYDsjId-sKMJN1Qui0j4xglynuJHw6-txn77tpJHbl5dXiATsadBoClPAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Congrats!

Correct

Congrats Carl!

Hi Robert, for basic clearance I cannot see anything that might be an issue. Nice work with your build.

Specifics on required mods would need to come from the responsible detachments, in this case Whitearmor for the TKs. Speaking generally, some black series helmets are closer in accuracy than others, but I believe all of them require some amount of modifications for 501st approval.

I know some people use this stuff, which is designed for swimming goggles: https://ekusa.com/product/cat-crap/

What's your goal? Is it for 501st Legion approval, or just cosplay?

Looks great. Happy to help.

Hey, yes that washer looks too big. Do you have an Ace Hardware near you or TrueValue? They usually have a loose nuts and bolts section where you should be able to find a smaller washer to fit with the 1/8" rivet. Will prob cost you about .10 cents. Do you have the backing plates that go with your 1/8" rivets? That should work.

The gaps you have between your back and tank armor are totally fine. No need to do any more with the fit.

Good luck on your application, Carl.

Thank you for the composite image, Andrew. Yes, the armory team is currently looking at the recently released photos of the Black Series Scout helmet. It does look promising, but we'll prob have more detailed feedback once we get closer to seeing the in-hand reviews.

Just to be clear, "Lancer" is not just about the materials and the craftsmanship, it's also about how it fits on you. Generally though, yes -- that boot, with the cuts, and with vinyl coverings that fit properly in proportion to the rest of your costume, should have what it takes for Lancer clearance. Your marked pattern looks okay. Just remember that the cuts don't need to be all that deep. The depth you made them on the heel is just fine.

Hi, these are the rivets you should be looking for: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/fastening-tools/rivets/2014041?store=16714&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz9ieBhCIARIsACB0oGJeVuTTk2MBfU8bN5tqhKElm_laoCCP73A-yxRO9NpvqeB1BlSvaSAaAmM5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The Cybercraft helmet is not true to shape of the original helmet and has a considerable number of inaccuracies. With many other good helmet options available, I advise against purchasing that helmet.

The boots you were using as a base seem fine. The Level 1 and 2 requirements for the base boots are: The soles of the boot are tan. The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film. The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching.

Hi Victoria, I think the cuts your did on your heel look great. My option on the forefoot cuts though is that the big chunks you cut out are going to be an issue for level 2. The boot cuts for Level 2 don't need to exactly match the Sierra Sneaker sole, they don't even need to match the length of each cut in the pattern. If you had done the shallow cuts, like you did on your heel, then you would've been a-ok. The boots don't need cuts for basic approval, so GML dependent, you might be alright there. If your goal is to prep for Level 2 as much as practicable, then that's my take so far. We're here to help, so stay motivated!

Congrats!

Thank you very much Donovon for adding your review.

Good luck, Nate.

I would do the final fitting and heat shaping after trimming, though some of it may be a bit of back and forth. Trim a little, fit the part. Trim a little more, fit the part, etc. Doesn't matter so much for slot cutting, but I'd prob do it after shaping. Did you get some lexan scissors? Those can work better for cutting in some scenarios vs the dremel.

Looks good.

I wouldn't use tea to dye all of your softgoods. And you don't even need to tea dye your pouches and straps if you're going to mist weather your armor -- it's an option but not a requirement. The color differences are really minor, if you look at the photo below. There was some spray mist weathering on the ROTJ soft goods as well, again in the photo below, which you can try, but you need to be real careful. The soft goods should have less weathering than the armor portions.

Gluing the tank is not required and isn't something that everyone does in their builds. The screen tanks flopped all over the place! If you use the 1/2" elastic strapping and also rivet the tank topper through the shelf that comes on the SC back armor, then it should be secure enough. That bottom rivet was meant to retain the 1/2" elastic strapping.