Chopper

We don't require a level of measurement specificity, so long as it's close to the photos in the CRL. 1" height seems high for an end cap, but if you go ahead and put one on the tubing and give us a photo, then we can take a look. What kit did you purchase? Studio Creations? Those greebs you posted earlier look like they're from Mon Cal/Far Away Creations?

Is there a particular reason that you don't want to use the standard metal one? https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661 https://www.ebay.com/itm/284927356932?hash=item4256fe7004:g:CPAAAOSwNh9i8xO1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4LuL6%2BNGuaaFg74FupM2OR7W3CF5OOfw5qW0C6zkUTV113aXay1y74tcYdSTU2MdrvMm8hLvVQExxHfS8%2FnE47WJHgZg0DUv632h3AClJWSvHP1%2FgtlDbYzZe8vpxf9Pidb4OFPOF1yphaMeM1GddIs7yDdH5%2BQ%2BewJS6kLSXFfefg6UcNVd1xoY7qbHu8RFl1sDhcmUkTVc02UAvfgcHIcPEXv1JkHSYgOyutNqCHc9deMLncLBuUbekcU%2B13PtsrozUg9i303itADrUhOlbiS0YSJ5pnsARIj342OJ7S4Q|tkp%3ABFBMitnx0fRg

Congrats Lancer!

Wampa and Imperial Boots both use leather. You could try talking to Gio at Crowprops to see if he can do his scout gloves in non leather material.

Moved to the WIP subforum. To paint the black snout area, you want to use flat black spray paint. You'll need to mask the area before painting. I like using the Scotch blue sharp lines brand and the 3M 1/8" artists curve tape for the top arched section. The black portion typically extends slightly over the indent edge for the snout greeblie. These photos from the Scoutopedia may help:

If you're looking to build towards Lancer, then you should peruse this post before buying anything: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ For Crowprops, are you talking about his fully built boots, or just the underboots? His fully built boots originally had some issues with a pinch point in the center of the dogbone, but I'm not sure if he's resolved that or not. See this review for more info: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21923-crow-props-scout-boots-and-gloves-my-take/

Yes, the velcro makes it more difficult to slide onto the belt and I eventually abandoned that idea. I haven't tried any other methods of holding the detonator on, but for me personally, it seems to stay on pretty alright as is.

Try this:

Hi Ryan, You've already self-identified most of the issues I can see -- namely shoulder bells, pouches, and cod. I agree that you should bring your cod up a bit, maybe another inch or so. You want it to lie flat, on the front of your body, and not get pulled between your legs. Lower your forearm armor. It should sit on the top edge of your gloves. Let us know if you'd like us to take another look, as your build progresses.

Looks like you have an old Hyperfirm holdout blaster. You don't see those as often anymore. Nice work on the paint upgrade.

It looks like that particular goodwill is in Michigan?

Juan, where you've positioned the chest and back armor looks much better. I've marked in green about where you want to trim the bridges to meet. Remember, it's night-impossible to put pieces back once they've been trimmed, so measure and check, then measure and check again, before cutting.

You can glue the visor and face shield assembly together, yes. For gluing abs, you can use either the Oatey abs cement or all purpose cement, which can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware stores. There's also devcon plastic weld, which is an epoxy that'll work as well.

To be clear, you're talking about adhering the sides and cap of the helmet?

Bondo or seam filling is not needed. You can continue making micro adjustments, but it doesn't need to fit perfectly flush -- they didn't in the film either.

Juan, yes I agree with Dennis. In addition to what he mentioned, the primary item that you should look at is your back armor positioning and your shoulder bridges. The front side of your armor looks fine. I think you're going to need to trim your shoulder bridges so that your back armor comes up further. Before trimming anything, overlap the two bridges and secure them with tape, so that you can be sure of the proper positioning. Give us a look before cutting anything, just to be safe.

I'd just leave it for now.

The Level 2 rotator bolts can be purchased here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BUMS8Y/?coliid=ILTCA2MHBZT97&colid=1FW2Z38AXTS5Q&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Having a small gap between the side of the helmet and faceplace is normal. They had them on screen as well.

The RS caps should be slightly concave, yes? I recall that Harbinger's were for his Level 2 app, and he used a RS kit as well.

If you're looking at making a ROTJ Scout, then you might want to check out this thread, if you haven't already:

Frank, the type of elastic you're looking for is this: https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Pry-9507B-Non-Roll-Elastic-Black/dp/B004ALJMSQ?th=1 That's the 1" variety. Either 1" or 3/4" is acceptable according to the CRL.

Just curious. There's no issue with the helmet for clearance, but it doesn't look like a Kropserkel helmet, which is in the photo below.

Hi Christina, your bund doesn't look long on its own, but the shape of the old SC chest armor makes it one of the longer chest armor parts. I wouldn't go a ton shorter on the bund. If you're looking at Level 2/Lancer, then you could maybe take up to 1/2" to 1" off, since your bund is coming up over your side straps. Before altering anything, how does it look with your pouches on? The overall shape of the cod is good, but as you said, it's a little wide on you. I would keep the shape, but maybe trim 1/2" from each side and see how that looks.

Ideally you would want to get the cut closest to the indent, which you have marked on line B. Note the strapping from the screen used armor below. You can cut into the indent a bit, in order to fit the strap. Alternatively, you can also switch to 1.5 inch white elastic material, which is allowed by the CRL, provided the color matches the other strapping. The elastic may fit better into the smaller cut. The photos below are from a Mando Scout Lancer application that had a similar issue.

It looks like you've self identified most of the issues I'd point out. Pull your knees up a bit, so they're not dropping into your boots. Bicep armor should be angled directly to the left and right of your body approximately at he 9 and 3 oclock positions. Bicep armor should be angled slightly forward, approximately at the 10 and 2 oclock positions. Velcro helps to hold all those parts in place on your flight suit. Question -- where is your helmet from? In your original post you said it was from Kropserkel, but that doesn't look like a Kropserkel helmet? Is that a New Image helmet?