Chopper

SC armor with KriptonTop soft goods should be just fine for basic clearance, provided that everything is fitted properly.

A gap is okay. The tank rattled all over the place on the ROTJ scouts. Here's what it looked like on one of the screen used armor sets in the Magic of the Myth exhibition:

Yes, if you want to go that way, it not a problem.

I think your tank is sitting pretty good overall. The only portion I see that might need more tweaking is what I've circled in green, on the very bottom of the tank. Those greebs are based on the same found part and usually they're the same size. One goes on the det box, the other goes in the slot on the tank topper. You will need to sand down the taller one until it fits into the slot as per this example photo from Christina's build: Go with flat or matte black. The red stripe color is recommended to be "insignia red". You can paint it or use a stripe decal.

Peter, the way your tank is sitting looks fine. The only area I see that needs attention is the top cut. It looks like there's a curve? That cut should be straight across where I've marked in green.

Thanks Frank. Do you mind if I change the thread title to "Altmann Helmet Review"? It'll show up in searches better that way.

Thanks for the review, much appreciated. To your question -- Some flak jackets have wider openings than others, but yes, the flight suit collar can sit on top of the flak jacket. The collar should not sit on top of the shoulder bridges.

Dying fabric can be complicated, depending on that material. Synthetics will require a different type of dye from natural materials, like cotton. Additionally, those breeches are already a fairly dark color. You can generally go darker with dyes, but altering the shade entirely may not work so well. Your mileage may vary with that particular set and it might be difficult to tell until you see better photos in hand.

The black strapping on the tank is for the Return of the Jedi Scout, which is a totally different CRL. In the Mandalorian Scout CRL, there are a number of differences in strapping and other details, including an absence of tank strapping. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Scout-Trooper-The-Mandalorian Since the strapping is not a part of the Mando scout, you can try making a L- bracket shelf to hold the tank on, similar to what Pandatrooper did in his build: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/9781-pandatroopers-sc-biker-scout-build/#comment-81496

Frank, Any specific required measurements will be mentioned in the CRL. For the most part that sort of specificity is only for strapping. For the areas you're pointing to, such as return edges and the bottom of the chest plate, we don't have specific measurements -- just try to get it close to what you see in the CRL photos and, if you're continuing with an RS build, Christina's build thread, which I linked earlier.

Correct. 2" wide thigh straps, which can be either elastic or webbing.

With E6000 you can usually just pick it off once it's fully dry. If that doesn't work you can also use a qtip and iso alcohol.

Hi Frank, Many of the issues you're seeing between what was on screen in The Mandalorian vs the RS armor is because the RS armor is derived from the screen used ROTJ scout kit. The armor used for The Mandalorian Scouts is the Walt's Trooper Factory (WTF) kit, which has a fair number of sculpt differences from the ROTJ screen used armor/RS armor. Everything you get in a RS kit is based around a ROTJ build, which is why the pencil trim markings don't match up with what you're seeing in the Mando screen shots. They're not going to match up perfectly because they're two totally different sets of armor. Before going any further, know that the RS kit can absolutely be built into an approvable Mando Scout. See Christina's build here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21567-scout-trooper-the-mandalorian-approved-christinas-build/ To your questions -- The RS det tubing is a foam cast of a wire wrapped tube, replicating what was used in ROTJ. The WTF kits use a piece of ribbed pool hose, which is also specified in the Mando Scout CRL: "Thermal detonator box with short corrugated hose attaches to the back of the belt". Some of the issues you're dealing with for the forearm, bicep armor, and shoulder not fitting properly will likely be improved once you add elastic strapping. The elastic will curve the plastic somewhat to fit. As mentioned, you can also do some careful heat forming as needed too. Any specific sizes will be stipulated in the CRL and there's no specific dimension for the scout forearm, it just needs to look appropriate for the scale of the armor and the wearer. The red trim line on your forearm armor looks fine and the forearm armor does have a return edge, yes. There is no return edges on the shoulder bells. Again, the RS shoulder armor will look significantly different from the WTF shoulder armor as used on screen, because they're differently designed kits. Finally, and this is your call, but if you feel that you absolutely need screen accuracy in terms of shape, appearance, and design adherence to the Mando Scout, then you might want to consider not cutting up your RS kit -- sell it and buy a WTF kit. Again, I want to emphasize that you should absolutely be able to get approved in RS armor as a Mando scout without needing drastic mods to the overall look of the parts. Check out Christina's build. She did a great job. Let us know if you have additional questions. Happy to help.

There have been quite a few people approved in the Imperial Boots vest. I don't see it being a major issue for basic clearance. As to sending it back, Imperial Boots is not a custom costume shop, so my guess is that they won't re-make it for you from a different material. You can check with your GML to see if they'll accept it, but my take is that a slight sheen like that will be ok.

DarmanProps on etsy makes one like that, with a velcro closure option: https://www.etsy.com/listing/642686929/stormtrooper-neck-seal?click_key=0c63b9f6dc15e97688b6b76a595ecb2f2fcd1b0b%3A642686929&click_sum=dbec4136&ga_search_query=neck%2Bseal&ref=shop_items_search_1&frs=1&crt=1&sts=1

Hello, I believe you've already seen it, but this post covers most of the existing scout armor makers: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/ And if you are interested in Level 2, you should look at this post to get a sense of the armor makers who are not quite accurate enough for Level 2/Lancer, though they are fine for Level 1/Basic clearance. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ Let us know if you have any questions and good luck!

The elastic is an issue with the Kolossus coveralls as well. You can just a longer butt flap from the suede and then attach it a little bit higher up, above the cinched elastic area.

Hi Ryan, what do you mean by not being able to get the shoulder bells to stick? Like they're not staying in place when you move? Some other notes -- You might want to tighten your collar closure a bit, as it's nearly to the end of your helmet snout. Your chest armor is riding high and your back armor is riding low. You might want to try adding some velcro to your flak vest and the chest plate of your armor to help keep in in place. Your pouches might also be a bit low, but I'd work on adjusting your chest plate first. Nice work, keep at it.

Correct. This thread covers the mods: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ You can hand sew it if you want. If you want to go that route I'd invest in a thimble unless you want your thumb to hurt from pushing the needle through the suede. The lower back part of the coveralls is fairly accessible by hand or machine via the front zipper.

The Kolossus suits and lighter and more breathable than the standard RedKap suit. The only caveat is that there's a cinched elastic back, which can make attaching the but flap a challenge. You can get around the issue by stitching it above the cinched portion, which will be covered by the bund.

Thanks for the images. Yes, that edge looks too long. If you look at the images in the Scoutopedia you'll see a good comparison of about where it should be trimmed: I would trim yours to about here:

Ahhh okay. Yes, in that case the caps will very likely need to be trimmed. Go ahead and post a photo.

We don't require a level of measurement specificity, so long as it's close to the photos in the CRL. 1" height seems high for an end cap, but if you go ahead and put one on the tubing and give us a photo, then we can take a look. What kit did you purchase? Studio Creations? Those greebs you posted earlier look like they're from Mon Cal/Far Away Creations?

Is there a particular reason that you don't want to use the standard metal one? https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661 https://www.ebay.com/itm/284927356932?hash=item4256fe7004:g:CPAAAOSwNh9i8xO1&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4LuL6%2BNGuaaFg74FupM2OR7W3CF5OOfw5qW0C6zkUTV113aXay1y74tcYdSTU2MdrvMm8hLvVQExxHfS8%2FnE47WJHgZg0DUv632h3AClJWSvHP1%2FgtlDbYzZe8vpxf9Pidb4OFPOF1yphaMeM1GddIs7yDdH5%2BQ%2BewJS6kLSXFfefg6UcNVd1xoY7qbHu8RFl1sDhcmUkTVc02UAvfgcHIcPEXv1JkHSYgOyutNqCHc9deMLncLBuUbekcU%2B13PtsrozUg9i303itADrUhOlbiS0YSJ5pnsARIj342OJ7S4Q|tkp%3ABFBMitnx0fRg

Congrats Lancer!