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Chopper

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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. Chopper
    Sounds good. We'll take a look when you're ready.
  2. Chopper
    Yes, the Strider build is still one of the best Level 2 assembly threads. The CRL has changed slightly in the years since then, so you should still double check it against the current CRL. For example, off the top of my head, I think one of the changes since then was the width of the bridge cover strapping.
  3. Chopper
    As I said, you're already in the ballpark, plus the velcro is adjustable anyhow -- absolute exactness isn't needed here. If you want to get a perfect measurement for fitting the side strapping, then do it with the appropriate underparts fitted as well. In this side shot, some of the bund is under the chest/back armor and side strap. I've trooped quite a bit in my current set of armor and I have not yet experienced excessive or noticeable wear from the hook side velcro getting passed through the slot in the armor.
  4. Chopper
    You're in the ballpark. Since you don't have your bund on, I'd leave enough space to fit that as well. With velcro, it's adjustable, so if you leave enough loop side velcro, you can adjust the strapping a bit more once everything is on.
  5. Chopper
    Those clips will work, yes đź‘Ť
  6. Chopper
    Folks are doing it that way, b/c the photo evidence indicates that's how it was done with the production boots. That said, which velcro side is facing inwards on the back of the boots is absolutely not stipulated in the CRL, nor is it something that we look for in Level 2 reviews. If you want to do it the other way around, then you're free to go that route and it's a non-issue.
  7. Chopper
    Out of stock on Amazon, but shipping on the 18th via here: https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661
  8. Chopper
    For basic clearance it should be fine. For Level 2, the velcro shouldn't go over the top edge like that. Can you trim it?
  9. Chopper
    For basic clearance, what you have is fine as is. For Level 2, they should go all the way through.
  10. Chopper
    @Dart any guidance here?
  11. Chopper
    If you wanted to do Level 2 Lancer in the future, then yes, the Kingshow boot would need to be painted to have a single color "wheat" sole. The first boot you posted would be good for Level 1 and 2.
  12. Chopper
    No prob dude!
  13. Chopper
    Depends -- are you going for Level 1 basic clearance or Level 2 Lancer? Level 2 requires a single colored sole, but for basic clearance you can have the two tone sole, like in the example above. You can use acrylic paints to cover up a two tone sole, but it's easier to just have the single color one to begin with. If you're only going to basic clearance, then the kingshow boot above is fine as well.
  14. Chopper
    The sole color on those looks okay. If you don't mind sharing, what brand are they? Folks recently have had a hard time getting the Kingshow boots with the single color sole, which is why I'm curious.
  15. Chopper
    Hey Arne, that gap def looks okay for filling with ABS paste. And nice work on the ear cuts.
  16. Chopper
    That looks about right.
  17. Chopper
    Shoot for this, if you can --
  18. Chopper
    Drop box position looks good, Ron. Where are your straps joining in the back?
  19. Chopper
    We don't have an exact color code, no. Testors Model Master Navy Aggressor Gray was a good choice in the past, but Testors isn't producing Model Master paints anymore. You're looking for a "medium gray" color. Try to match the color of the helmet decals and the gray on the chest armor indent as best you can. It doesn't need to be an exact, 100% perfect pantone match. Just try to get it close.
  20. Chopper
    Hi Arne. Nice to meet you yesterday. Yes, I think that your earholes look ok!
  21. Chopper
    Hey Brett, Nice work so far. The first two things that stand out to me are the rotator bolts, which should be flat, with a slight indent in the center. https://databank.501st.com/mw501/images/9/97/Bolt1.jpg And the aerator mesh on the snount piece shouldn't have holes in it. That part was actually just a sink nozzle with mesh screen material, so while there was a screen pattern on the cast surface, there weren't any holes. See references below. I noticed that you haven't sculpted the back portion yet, but we're happy to take a look at that whenever you're ready. Since you're using the starwarshelmets website references, have you looked through the helmet photos here yet? http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php @Retrofire @BikerScout007 @Dart -- anything on your end?
  22. Chopper
    We aren't that particular about the internal rigging of the scout. Do what works best for you, and still looks correct from the outside.
  23. Chopper
    Yes, I used snaps connecting both drop box straps to the webbing. You just can't see the right one b/c it's under the connected halves. Some people choose to sew their drop box straps on, but I like snaps b/c sometimes my straps get tangled and I can just pop the ends off and untwist them. Yeah, the two halves of my rear webbing just velcroes to itself, one over the other.
  24. Chopper
    You mean like this? You can ignore the velcro on the very back, I had tried that to hold my detonator on more securely, but in the end I didn't end up needing it.
  25. Chopper
    I'd try and center it between the edge of the box and the edge of the belt. That's correct. Using only a single rivet there is a definite stress point, and, left unsupported, it will likely break or crack over time. I used longer webbing and velcroed mine on the inside, though I don't think that step was really necessary. Glue would work as well.
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