Chopper

I actually have that color in my paint bin and here's a comparison with the RS built helmet. Yes, I think it would work well.

What color do you mean? The matching color of the sludge? Yes that looks just fine.

Scot, the CRL says "Thermal Detonator face must have a short side and a long side; symmetrical TDs are not permitted." The CRL is describing the shape of the detonator box itself, not the placement of the greeblies. The Studio Creations detonator box has a long and a short side, which corresponds with what is required in the CRL. The placement of your greeblies on your original detonator box were fine, as is your placement of the greeblies in your first photos of the Studio Creations detonator box. The various acceptable placements of the detonator greeblies are listed in the CRL, here: https://databank.501st.com/mw501/images/d/db/Td_configs.jpg Also please note that, if you are doing a full armor rebuild using your newly purchased Studio Creations kit, then you will need to re-take and re-submit photos while wearing the Studio Creations armor. The Lancer application must reflect the current state of your armor.

@jennyruth found a good match with RAL 9010.

Good news. Good plan!

Hmm yeah I can see why that might cause some concern with 3D printed parts. In this instance, as long as we can't tell the difference from the outside, and as long you're using a real rivet head, then it should be ok. Of your two options, I think #2 is the better one. Metal to plastic adhesion isn't terrific, so having the hole will definitely help. The strapping will need to look like it's riveted at those two points on the knee, so you'll likely need to glue it in place along with the rivet head as well. Measure twice...

Spray paint adheres to ABS just fine. You'll need to make sure that the plastic surface is clean, then prep the surface by wet sanding with some 600-800 grit sandpaper. Once that's done, you can spray the armor using semi-gloss white, or gloss white paint. I'm not sure what spray paint brands are common in France, so you'd need to check with your local garrison to see what's recommended on that aspect.

Do you have any more flap material left over? I'm thinking you might be able to make a very narrow flap that goes over the zipper/zipper teeth, which is at least long enough to go under the front of your flak vest or chest armor.

Here you go:

@Dart can weigh in on what brands of paint are most readily available in Canada, but generally, we recommend Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x gloss white or semi-gloss white.

Correct

Question for you @TK-Roamer, specifically looking at zipper concealment strategies -- are you looking to build for basic approval only, or Level 2/Lancer?

I'm going to guess that the bell on your left/photo right doesn't have any elastic? What I do with my elastic is keep it sorta loose, so it doesn't constrict the arm of my vest. It's just enough to keep the bell in place, but it's not tight by any means. You can also try positioning the elastic further up on the bell, so it's closer to looping under your armpit, as opposed to your bicep.

Correct!

Yeah the shape of the button you have is different from the one that was used on the screen kits. Yours is more flat, while the real one has a "rim" and "bump". See photos below. The real one came from a Revell Flakpanzer Gepard. I see what you mean about the white on the rim of that greeb from the magic of the myth photo. That's just unpainted resin, most likely. There's no requirement to have a white rim or anything like that on the sides of the button greeb. Yeah, since you're only going for basic approval, you should be fine to glue it as is. We're happy to advise on anything beyond that, but for basic -- yeah, that's all you'd need to do.

You shouldn't cut out that smaller circle, but it should be painted white. Is the issue with the button piece that it won't make contact with the tank surface below? If so, I'd just cut a piece of scrap abs and paste it under the button, so you can get good adhesion. You shouldn't be able to see the scrap part, but it should be glued on securely that way.

One side, stitched to the vinyl behind the holster.

Yeah, that mud flap looks about dead on. Nice work.

Scot, yes Studio Creations is a trusted vendor for scout armor and parts. Also please note that, as our DL mentioned during the team review, the damaged bicep armor you mentioned outside of this application will also need to be fully repaired or replaced in order to proceed with the application. If you are already getting parts from SC, you might want to look at their bicep armor as well.

Oh a custom color! Very nice!

Nice. What color did you end up using?

Hi Frank, You seem to have self-identified most of your issues, with your shoulder bells being the biggest item to correct. Also, check your pouches, which are on the wrong sides. The diagonal on the flap should be facing inwards (see photo). Try and adjust the back of your belt. The rear connection, where the straps attach and the det box is fitted, looks skewed to the right. This is also making your boxes sit unevenly. Your boots look ok. Overall pretty good. Just a few adjustments and you should be on your way.

If you have a SC helmet, then you can use the Kropserkel youtube video. For the most part, the assembly is pretty similar:

GML dependent, but as far as basic clearance goes, I think you'll make the minimum cut for basic clearance, provided that you do some adjustments first. I'd also encourage you to replace some parts as well -- Correct, you need elastic to secure the shoulder armor White webbing is all you need to join the chest and back armor -- cotton or synthetic or elastic is fine. Bridge covers look fine. If you want to use off white straps on the drop boxes, then you will also need to use off-white pouches and side straps. Check strapworks or Amazon if you're looking for pure white webbing. If your belt is falling down, then you can help secure it with some velcro on your cod, though that'll have to wait until you get your new soft goods in hand to do so. The rear webbing on your belt should connect with a single rivet on each side -- you have two. You'll need to drill them out and fill with abs paste...or get a new belt. You can get the black belt clips for the det tubing here: https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661 Consider replacing that snout greeblie and rotator bolts, plus the black border area looks scratched https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

There isn't a lot to adjust, really. Nice work. Bring your right pouch in a bit. Take the shoulders out a bit more. Bring up your belt. Your belt boxes look like they're kicked forwards a bit. Also, bring up your cod slightly and loosen the strap, so it's not crunching so much.