Chopper

Thank you for your revised application, Scot. The team has reviewed your photos and we have the following comments for you: Chest pouches are too close together. Try and align the outer edges of the pouches with the ends of the chest armor. The next is really more of an accuracy suggestion, as opposed to a required correction -- the side strap slots that were cut on your armor don't match up with what's been seen on screen or in the CRL (see below). Adding another cut would probably compromise the strength of the plastic in that area, so if you wanted to fix it, then you'd likely need to add some styrene backing as a reinforcement. For your pouches, please adjust them and all you'd need is another front side photo to close out this app. Thank you again. Let us know if you have further questions. VS

Congrats Arne!

Arne, because of the intensive multi-person evaluation process involved in the Level 2 Lancer application, as a rule, we don't do Lancer pre-reviews. Most everyone has to make some level of adjustment for the Lancer process, and sometimes it's only something minor. The best way to find out is to apply! Judging by the photos you've posted, I'm sure your basic approval will be coming soon!

Hi Chelle, the assembled parts all look okay to me. The next step is how well they fit with your soft good. Let us know if you have further questions.

You're basically looking for these aluminum rivets: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B07R6GRXK9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GS3F5XIMRIFF&keywords=1%2F8"+x+3%2F8"+aluminum+rivets&qid=1657119228&s=diy&sprefix=1%2F8+x+3%2F8+aluminum+rivet%2Cdiy%2C137&sr=1-3 If there's a hardware store near you, they might have packs in smaller quantities, since you don't need a ton of them. 1/8" (diameter) x 3/8" (there's no requirement on the pull length, but 3/8" tends to be a good size for the armor.) You'll also want to get some 1/8" aluminum washers, so the rivets don't break the plastic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arrow-Fastener-Aluminum-Washers-8-Inch/dp/B08P5WNZQQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=171Q2T89VBEH5&keywords=1%2F8"+aluminum+washers&qid=1657119408&s=diy&sprefix=1%2F8+aluminum+washers%2Cdiy%2C142&sr=1-2 Again, you might be able to find them at a hardware store near you.

You might want to check with Chef on this part -- it looks like you have a defect in the pull on the side of the dropbox?

The forums unfortunately don't have unlimited storage space for attaching photos. We have to use an outside photo hosting services and then link the photos. See this post from the DL about ways to do this: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704

Hey Jordan, what you have for the return edge looks good to me. For screen references, you can get a sense of the return edges on the chest and back armor from the photos below:

Gotcha, please keep us updated if you see them post more images.

Interesting, thanks for the heads up on this Arne. Do you by any chance have any images of a fully assembled helmet from them?

"Dogbone shape conforms to the original screen used boot; there is a concave curve along the bottom edge." Some vendors were using a dogbone shape that was essentially a rectangle with rounded off edges as the dog bone. The dogbone should generally match this shape: Also, some vendors were gluing the dogbone to the sides of the soles, which should also not be done.

You don't need to bend the end into a slot on the front end of the holster. You can either 1) glue the bend to the holster or 2) rivet the bend to the holster. Either is fine.

Like these, or your closest local equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Snaps-Nickel-1261-02/dp/B003ABEYW6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3QU6SYG4A3OVJ&keywords=tandy+snaps&qid=1656689909&sprefix=tandy+snaps%2Caps%2C71&sr=8-6

The connection point is concealed, so the method of attachment is up to you. In terms of best practices, some people sew the webbing to the belt. Others have used snaps to attach it. Personally, I like using snaps, since if the drop box snaps get tangled in my bin, then it's easy to straighten them out.

You might need to do some trimming on some parts, but for your size, I think Mon Cal would work quite well.

You can look at this post to get a sense of the different armor makers that are out there: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/ "Best" would depend on what you're looking for -- accuracy, price, shipping speed? Both Mon Cal and Studio Creations are good choices and are popular sellers for those who are in the US. The Mon Cal armor is better suited for medium build folks, so if you're larger, then that might not be the best fit. Both Mon Cal and Studio Creations come fully trimmed, so they're a little quicker to build. If your primary criteria is accuracy, then RS is the way to go. You're also paying a premium for that level of accuracy, plus it's coming from the UK. Let us know if you have any further questions.

The most common method is to use hot glue along the sides of the lenses on the inside. It keeps the lenses secure, but you can also replace them relatively easily if need be.

For Christina's method, I don't believe you'll need to do anything like painting the armor white first. It's not needed.

Do you have a link or photo to the kit you bought?

You mean painting the armor white and then weathering over it? Are you concerned about diff shades of ABS plastic or something of that nature? Otherwise, that seems like a lot of extra work for not a whole lot of benefit?

Eyeslot looks good to me.

That looks fine.

The SC eyeslot is somewhat undersized. I'd go bigger. You can trace a larger outline around it with a soft pencil to get a sense of how it looked when it's opened up a bit more.

Congrats Dennis!

I moved it over to the Mando Scout WIP section.