Chopper

1: R/L shoulder bells are not specific. 2: It's hard to say without an overall shot, but the leg portions of your suit look good to me. If you don't have the soft goods pinned up in the photo, then I don't think you need any tailoring right now. 2a: Bring your shoulders in closer, so that they're about 1/2" to 3/4" from the shoulder bridges 2b: Boot and knee positions look good. 2c: You should get more clearance between the bicep and shoulder armor when you bring you shoulders in. Don't trim the biceps or forearm armor. You may need to trim the bottoms of your shoulder armor, if there's still clearance issues, but we're not there yet -- adjust the bell positions first.

Knee rivet placement looks fine. For the tank rivet placement I would go with number "3".

Good idea for the cod stiffener.

No, not for basic clearance The overall shape looks good. I wouldn't trim more than that. If you have a photo of how it lines up in the back right now, that would be helpful for additional feedback. The the drawn cut line looks good. I'd use an emory board to smooth out the edge along the bottom of the snout and jawline. The proper ear cut out shapes tend look like kidney beans. I'd say that the cut out marks you made on the helmet wearer's right side are pretty good. The left side ones are too narrow. You can use these photos for additional guidance:

Excellent write up, Andy, and very helpful!

Those boots look great dude. Pro quality.

You can always just cut off the large disc portion of the 3M bolt and glue that onto the side of the visor.

There is no specific defined length for the tubing in the CRL -- it should be generally proportional to your body. If you look at the rear CRL photo, the length of the tubing should be just a bit inside where the webbing meets the belt.

I haven't used that specific website, but Cucblack is KriptonTop on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/KriptonTop?ref=search_shop_redirect Many scouts have used him for their soft goods and he does an excellent job. The only caveat is that he ships from S. America, so I would encourage you to pay for FedEx shipping.

It'd depend on the velocity of the plastic airsoft pellets -- I know it can vary. As far as I know, no scout maker's armor is ballistic rated. After all, it's a costume that's meant to look cool, not actual body armor. Will it stop an airsoft pellet? Probably? Will the armor get damaged, if not immediately, then over time? Probably. And then there's the lens. Most of us hot glue the lens into the helmet. Again, I personally wouldn't trust a lens that was hot glued to hold up to getting hit by an airsoft pellet.

@woobiee built his over Gio's base boot and his turned out pretty nice:

I did use snaps where they connect on the back webbing, just because sometimes they get tangled and it's an easy fix. Others, like Mickey I believe, sewed their straps to the webbing and that's fine too.

Hey Ron @RZill, FYI there's an easier way to mount the front drop box webbing -- just make a fold in it, like below. You can stitch it down to keep the fold flat.

1. Not sure how much overlap there was on the screen suits and I haven't seen any photos of that detail. There is no set standard, aside from the det should hide it. You can't see the webbing overlap in the photo below, so it can't have been a lot. For the sake of practicality, I'd say approx 2" min overlap would work, but that's not a "rule". 2. Similarly, we don't have any photos of the inside shoulder strapping. We only actually determined that they used zip ties to hold them on relatively recently, thanks to the HD blu-ray releases. Most folks tend to do some variation of the Strider method, as you mentioned. If you want to go with a diff method for attaching the zip ties, that's fine, as long as the end result looks right. My original build used a piece of webbing that wrapped around the bridge with velcro and the zip tie looped through. Personal methods may vary. 3. I used a single strap + velcro to mount the back webbing inside the armor. See below.

Yes, consider the extra width that the flak vest will add to everything. I would hold off on any heat shaping until you have all of your soft goods in order. I don't think you need to bring the back up much. Maybe a little, but they don't need to be absolutely perfectly even. Look at the screenshot below for reference:

There are some reviews of the full Crowprops boots here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21923-crow-props-scout-boots-and-gloves-my-take/ and here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21900-crow-props-biker-boots-and-gloves-are-in/ I'd consider Gio's underboot only offering to be quite good, but the original poster had indicated that he didn't want to build his own.

It's all good dude. Questions are what we're here for.

What you've got right now is just fine. No need to do more. The ends of the belt are slightly rounded as per the screen shot below:

And if you're having trouble with working on curved surfaces, you can wrap a piece of sandpaper around a marker or pencil and that'll give you a rounder surface to try and smooth out those curved areas.

I'll leave the specifics about the kasshy kit to @ferra and @Jakeputt. I can tell you generally that when there's a tough spot like that, I try to get as close as I can to a clean cut with the lexan scissors, and then I use an emory board and, as needed, sandpaper to smooth down the edge. If further refinement is needed, then yeah, I use a rotary tool. I don't do my primary cutting with a rotary tool though.

Issues with imperial Boots and Level 2/Lancer are detailed here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ "Boots - "Biker OT" boot dogbone is improperly shaped, horizontal stitch mark on velcro tab needs to be concealed " If you do not want to try at making your own, I recommend you check with @Chrisx909x in California, or Chef's Creations in the UK. Note that nothing is Lancer/Level 2 "out of the box". You can have "Lancer" made boots that are too short, or too wide etc -- in the end it's also about how it fits on you.

Oh okay, in that case only 4" of velcro should be fine.

I don't think you necessarily need industrial strength velcro. I'm not sure generally what size you are, but 4" on each side would probably be the bare minimum needed for the side strapping. Some people wrap the strapping all the way around the back, but that's not a requirement -- it's really up to you how to rig it up internally. If you end up needing more strapping, you can always email Jeff. He's sent me extra strapping in the past.

The slots should be cut through for Lancer.

The CRL for Level 2 states that "Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted." Emphasis is on "preferred", but not required. As long as the cotton you use for your bund is, again quoting the CRL, "Made of smooth white cotton fabric", such as sateen cotton, then you should be fine. Your riding patch templates look a little bit too big. I did some markup in green to better show some adjustments to the pattern. Also, here some photos (Courtesy of our DL) of Gino's Scout from SWC 2017: