Chopper

Scaling the pouches to the wearer's size used to be more common about 5+ years ago, but we've encouraged people to stop doing so. It's not a requirement for Level 1/ Basic clearance, but it is for Level 2/Lancer. We've found that the 6x5x2 pouches don't generally need to be scaled and, with a 8.5" bund, shouldn't need to be. Also, lacking a photo, you might want to check your belt position in relation to your chest armor. Many tend to position their belts too low initially, which can contribute to the issue. Ideally it should sit just below your navel.

I like your attention to detail. Yeah, Lou's blasters had a magnet embedded in the nose and in the handle transistor.

That's pretty much just a tendency of how weathering looks to the naked eye vs camera. Weathering will always appear less on screen or in a photo than to your eyes. With the photos you've got, I think the weathering looks good.

Thank you, Pete. Yes, I agree that you've done a great job with the weathering. Keep it up!

Hi Ryan, welcome to the pathfinders. As you start your build, particularly if you're looking to make some of your own soft goods, then I suggest you take a look at the following posts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions-and-patterns/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22433-cummerbund-tutorial-sort-of/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ We're here if you have any questions. Good luck!

FYI, liquitex paint is acrylic and will not be durable over the long term. Look for Rustoleum Appliance White.

Good luck. Arne!

Chris, as a Legion-wide policy, weapons are optional only for Level 1 clearance. They are required for any Level 2 approval, be it Lancer, Vanguard, CHIPs, etc. If you have a blaster, please post up the photos and we'll take a look.

Looking at your photos, I don't think you should have any issues with basic clearance. Everything you're noted are refinements, and would serve you well if you choose to go Lancer, but for basic clearance you could probably submit the photos right now and would very likely be cleared. Excellent work, Arne!

Chris, thank you but you will need more than just the standard GML photos for a Level 2 application. Check this post: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20150-lancer-deployment-request-rev-2022/ "4. Take pictures of all your gear. Using a ruler in the image is a great help to the team. Make sure the lighting is good." Check this application as an example: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22040-tb-92576-lancer-deployment-request/

Your bund should be generally centered in back, but it does not need to be exactly centered. How far off is it? You can shorten it by opening up the seam where the right side velcro is attached, folding the extra fabric in on itself, and then re-stitching it.

Can you post some photos of the parts you're not sure what to do with?

Hi Timbo, it would help if you could post some photos for us to look at? What do you mean that the belt does not connect? It doesn't connect in back? If the boots don't fit anymore, there unfortunately isn't a lot that can be done there in terms of altering the existing ones. You might be able to sell them and get a new pair. Pouches are usually affixed with velcro to the bund, which allows some adjustability as well. Our armorer, @M.J is from Knightfall Garrison, so perhaps she can chime in about local-area assistance.

Just don't let those flames get too close to your helmet! 😅

Correct, the CRL does not specify. "The undersuit is a TIE Fighter pilot-style flight suit." "(2) leg pockets with flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket." I will note that the Mando scout on display at SDCC used pointed leg flaps on the flight suit. There should be no issue with you using the WW flight suit. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21147-sdcc-mandalorian-scout-reference/

Arne, look for Strider's post from 2 May 2017 in this thread:

Daniel, thank you for your patience. The team has completed their initial review of your application and we have the following notes: Overall: The application is missing measurements for the following: Shoulder bridge strapping Drop box strapping Belt webbing Rivets: Can we please get some measurements of the flange heads on the rivets for your holster, belt, and knees? The team thinks that they look larger than the specified 1/8" hole-size rivets. Thank you. Helmet: Replace the helmet bolts with the 3M bolts. You can get them here: https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK Flight Suit: Butt flap is long. Trim approximately an inch off of the bottom edge of the butt flap. See example photo: Shoulder Armor: Let the bells out maybe 1/2" and rotate them forward. Currently they're sitting too far back. Gloves: Trim off glove clips. Back Armor: Tank topper needs to get moved forward approximately an inch and needs to be flushly glued down-- in one of the back armor photos the right side isn't glued to the top of the tank. You'll need to drill out the rivet, which you can carefully do with a cobalt drill bit. If the hole is visible then you'll need to patch the bottom side with some ABS scrap and make some ABS paste to fill the hole on the top side. Codpiece: Loosen or extend the codpiece strapping to reduce codpiece wrinkles. Belt: There's a lot of excess velcro visible on the belt, which is evident in the left side photo. The visible velcro will need to be trimmed, as the end of the belt and veclro attachment should not show when fully fastened. Typically, both are concealed behind the detonator box. Boots: Sole color is two tone and will need to be painted as one color. Holster: Round off the edges of the sides of the holster with a file or emory board. The slot cuts are overly thick -- they're just supposed to be razor saw cuts or cut with a very thin dremel wheel. The inside can either be backed with scrap plastic and filled in with ABS paste and refinished, or else the holster will can be replaced. Blaster: The blaster is over-weathered and will need to be painted black. Please provide additional detail photos of the end side of the singlepoint scope. Is that molding flash? It'll need to get cleared up so the details are present. The end side should look like this, with the interior ridges: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/images/scoutopedia/13. Blaster/Hero Blaster back.jpg Overall, your armor and soft goods fitment is quite good. Very nice work. Please let us know if you have any questions, or need clarification on anything we've listed above. Thanks!

Congrats and welcome aboard!

The 2" webbing you get with the SC kit is synthetic, so if you sear the edges of the hole with a lighter or match, then you should be in good shape.

There's a great boot build tutorial here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ And while there's no overall template for the boots, @KOtrooper did make a template for the dogbone, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22421-kotroopers-biker-scout-build/page/4/&tab=comments#comment-209950

Does the speaker still work? If it's still functioning, then you should be able to glue it back together with some super glue. Once glued, if the broken edges are super obvious, you can use some 600 grit sandpaper to smooth them down a bit, and then paint it with some acrylic paint. If gluing it works, then that's all you need to do. If it no longer functions, then you'd need to talk to Ukswrath about replacement parts.

Nate, they're good as is. No modifications are needed.

if you are still looking for a holdout blaster: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23156-7cs-biker-scout-pistol/#comment-217769

Yes those cuts look fine.

For Level 1 on the gloves, the CRL is not very specific b/c it relies mostly on the photo: "Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger and thumb." Black suede or faux suede for the finger and thumb patches. The rest of the glove can be real leather or faux leather, as long as the finish is smooth and is similar to the photo. Now, for Level 2, any gloves you make will pretty much need to be near-identical in terms of dimensions, features, and finish to the esprit riding gloves depicted in the CRL photo. The current easy availability of near-identical esprit copies from WampaWear and Imperial Boots means that's where the bar sits. Harbinger is correct on the tube wrapping wire. You're welcome to go for it, just know that many of us have built them, but quickly decide not to use them when trooping due to the weight.