Chopper

Great work John. Glad everything turned out well. Happy to help, anytime.

Hi Thomas, welcome to the pathfinders. Curious, what Etsy helmet file are you using?

Hi Nick, looks like you're on the right track. PETG can be a challenge, but once you get it dialed in, you'll find that it's a lot more sturdy than PLA. I would think that a WW size large glove would fit well. https://wampawear.com/sizing/ From my experience, WW is also pretty good about exchanges if the goods are basically unused. The market for hold out blasters is not what it used to be. A fair number of folks do 3D print theirs, due to the light weight, but that also means a lot of filling and sanding. DarthVoorhees was the primary source for blasters, but he sold his rubber resin molds and the person who bought them has not started producing blasters yet. I'm not being opportunistic here, but if you really want a rubber resin blaster, I have an extra Darth Voorhees one. KriptonTop and Steph will both work for soft parts. KriptonTop ships from S. America, so we recommend that people select the FedEx shipping option. Steph usually does hers in runs, so I'm not sure what the wait is like right now. Using a sewing machine will be helpful for adding velcro and things like that. You certainly don't need to be an expert tailor, but being able to do the little stuff will save you money and time in the end. E-11's are not a part of the CRL, but your local command may allow it for trooping at their discretion.

Great work so far Arne. I see that you mention that the neck opening needs to widened a little bit more. Do you want to post some photos wearing the vest for the armory team to take a look at? We'd be happy to offer you any feedback on the sizing.

For the visor material, the hobart welding shield is very popular. You can trim and cut it to shape, then hot glue it into the face plate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VECKRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 When you say "attaching the parts", do you mean gluing the printed parts together?

PLA, or as Mickey said, PETG are both fine. I prefer PETG for the reasons he said, but it can be a little more finicky to dial in. To your question, the important point is that the finished product has the appearance of ABS, since that's what they used in the film.

If this is the same helmet that's included as a 3D model, and I'd make sure that it's the same model, then yes, I believe it would be clearable. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1106581891/star-wars-episode-6-rotj-biker-scout?click_key=d088503abb599d45ba6d15cfb28b42738f2b24ea%3A1106581891&click_sum=77faaa7d&ref=shop_home_recs_10&sca=1

No, there's no specific requirements for the helmet padding. The original helmets used a 3M hardhat liner. Some people use tactical padding. All you need to do is find something that's comfortable. A lot of folks like to use the trooperbay decals: https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-bikerscout-helmet-decals

Correct.

Nope. Nothing that strictly defined. You can use the photo as a general guide and eyeball the placement on your own bicep armor.

Good work Arne.

In that case, IB will get you most of what you need. In my experience the IB coveralls tend to run long and might need some tailoring, depending on your body size.

Is this for a ROTJ Scout? Is your intention for basic clearance only, or Level 2/Lancer?

Hi Arne, the CRL Level 2 text says "Vest sleeves have the appearance of being raglan (ie, the connection seam is at the collar of the vest, not the shoulder)" So the padded and stitched sleeves do not have to go all the way to the collar, as long as where they end is covered by the shoulder bridges, or otherwise not visible when all of your armor is on.

And if you can't find anyone in town, assuming your profile location is still accurate, I can guarantee that there's places that can do this just outside of Keesler AFB.

Have you called around and asked any of your local alteration shops? Bringing the legs in shouldn't be too tough a task for a shop to take care of, plus they'd be able to size it while you're there.

That's good. It will make your build process go easier if you see what others have done. I do want to alert you that, from what we've seen in other applications, Imperial Boots soft goods will not pass Level 2/Lancer.

If Lancer is your goal, then I suggest you read the following posts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20150-lancer-deployment-request-rev-2021/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22685-a-few-words-about-level-2-and-new-recruits/

Gotcha, the screen used helmets cut two slits in the side portions under the faceplate and glued in some 1" elastic. See photos below. Other options include attaching the elastic to the helmet bolts, or if you're using a hardhat liner, to the liner. Also note that the chin cup is totally optional, so you don't have to have to use one.

What brand of helmet are you using?

Hello and welcome. Looks like you're well on your way. Let us know if you have any questions as you progress with your build.

The scout armor was made to be tossed around, so it's not surprising that some screenshots show one side of the tubing as longer than the other. There is no specific defined length for the tubing -- it should be generally proportional to your body. If you look at the rear CRL photo, the length of the tubing should be just a bit inside where the webbing meets the belt.

ROTJ or Mando Scout? I can't recall exactly how the WTF tank is shaped in relation to the back armor, but you'll need to rough trim the tank down enough that it's close to fitting, then make small cuts until you can get it to fit more flush. There's no real magic technique to it, aside from going slowly and working carefully. Note that on the ROTJ scout, the back tank wasn't perfectly trimmed and wobbled around quite a bit, as it was only held on with an elastic loop. These photos should give you a good idea of what to shoot for.

The riding patches are certainly one of the most challenging parts of making your own coveralls!

I used Rustoleum Painters Touch 2x flat black primer, but it doesn't necessarily need to be that specific brand. The soft goods, bund, cod, pouches, boots are also weathered, though they should be weathered more lightly than the hard armor parts. Just a little very light misting. You really don't want to overdo it with the soft goods, as reversing it is basically impossible.