Chopper

WTF helmets were not used in the Mandalorian TV show, only the armor. The TV show used an EFX helmet. I would caution you against getting the WTF helmet. It is a very, very difficult build for a variety of reasons. I have seen far more people give up on a WTF helmet, than those who go all the way to completion. There are better and more accurate helmets available, but if you still want to go that direction, I can point you to a few build threads. Stand by while I go look for them.

If you're only looking for basic clearance, then the elastic strapping measurement isn't specified in the CRL. There's some other minor differences, like: "Rank" stripes would need to be removed from the upper right of the tank. Inverting the rear parachute buckles. The narrower upper elastic on the knee armor will need to be removed, along with the rivet. So you'll need to do some hole filling if you plan to use your existing armor.

Well, SC has that "shelf" on the back armor for you to rivet the tank topper/tank though. That alone, plus the 0.5 inch elastic strap should be enough to keep it fixed in place. Most armor makers and the earlier SC kits didn't have that shelf, which is why I went with the additional internal strapping. I think you'll probably be ok with just the rivet.

Rivet marking on the bottom looks about right. Tank topper position looks good too.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087771N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Alternatively, you can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AX5XB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, it might be a tiny smidge high, but I'd say that general shape should work for doing the ear cuts. If you can peel and adjust it down very slightly, that would be better. Here's a photo of one of the screen helmets for reference:

The red square is not a part of the CRL. You don't need to add it

@Dart can you please upgrade Sean's forum profile to full Pathfinder access?

Yep, the show used WTF armor with an EFX helmet.

Nice dude. I also have a singer machine.

Hm, yeah not a ton of other alternatives in that case. I think you're pretty much limited to the following options: Remove the hard hat liner entirely and try tactical padding instead Remove the chin cup, which is optional, and just use the black elastic strap Try repositioning and re-installing the hard hat liner

Thanks for that feedback on Imperial Arms, Justin.

Is the "lip" part of the cup on the very end/front of your chin? Also, rather than uninstalling and redrilling, can you try opening the top retainer part of the hard hat liner so it's beyond all the stops and just sits loose? That might drop the helmet down a little bit.

Here's what I mean -- This is one of the screen used helmet chin cups, but not the one that RS bought: This is the RS one, and is the type of cup that comes with their builds:

Generally the chin cup should not be visible from the outside, but there's a little bit of allowable leeway, IMO. Your chin cup isn't super visible from the front. How visible is it from the sides? Can we see? Let me ask you another question, is it the back part of the chin cup that's primarily sticking out underneath? The RS cup is cut fairly large and I wonder if the back part of it is causing part of the issue.

Frankly, just from the one photo you posted, I think you can probably apply for basic right now. Re: your chin cup. Remember that the chin cup is totally optional, so you don't even need to have it as a part of your helmet.

Alright, so if you do ROTJ, what I posted above still stands. If you're going for the Mando scout, note that the rivet is off-center, towards the right, on the screen used tank toppers. Or in other words, it doesn't need to be centered if you do the Mando scout with your current tank topper.

Oh and just to clarify, are you doing a ROTJ scout or a Mando scout?

For our detachment reference/knowledge base, can you tell us which vendor supplied that tank topper? The number of fins on the tank topper isn't stated explicitly in either level 1 or 2, though we do have photos from the screen costume that shows 8 fins. For basic clearance the CRL only says: The top of the tank is flat with a black tank topper detail attached. Tank topper features the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used armor. There's a bit of wiggle room for interpretation there. It is important to note that the linked image in the CRL does show 8 fins. I've seen a number of different tank toppers that have greebs of various sizes and scales that have all passed basic. For Level 1, I'd say it's probably ok, though I'd verify that your local GML is ok with it as well.

Check this post for tips and tricks:

Congrats Lancer!

Hi Logan, of all the available helmets, the WTF is probably the most difficult to assemble, so congrats on completing the build! One tip -- I would try and clean up a few uneven spots on the helmet with a file or emory board. Mostly around the visor and top of the eyeslot. See where I've marked in green.

Gio at Crowprops makes custom boots. I'm not sure how wide his scout boot soles can go, but shoot him an email to find out: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/contact

In short -- yes, it's definitely worth it. The price you'd pay to a tailor to even add small things like velcro would quickly exceed the cost of a sewing machine. Some items are certainly easier to create than others, but most of us didn't have a lot of sewing experience prior to joining. I'm not sure about picking up items from a thrift store, but most of the scout items can be easily acquired from amazon, jo-ann fabrics, etc. For coveralls, people typically use either the black Red Kap, or the Kolossus brands. Dickies will work as well. Some tips and general guidance are contained in the following posts as well: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/12485-build-your-own-vest-wpictures/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22706-cummerbundcod-material/ http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

Ah that's a bummer. The Kingshow boots used to be relatively inexpensive, so you can always use the current pair for practice if you end up grabbing a second pair. Up to you. One of the things to note when cutting the soles is that you don't need to cut the slots all that deep. Even 1/8" should be good. A lot of folks like to map out the pattern in pencil on their boots before cutting. it also helps to cut the sides with a sharp exacto blade, then use a "chisel" style exacto blade to cut the wedge out. Overall, it's prob okay for basic clearance (actually you don't even need to do the cuts for basic), but I'd double check with your local garrison's GML first. From 6 feet out it's not going to be very noticeable.