Chopper

The RS caps should be slightly concave, yes? I recall that Harbinger's were for his Level 2 app, and he used a RS kit as well.

If you're looking at making a ROTJ Scout, then you might want to check out this thread, if you haven't already:

Frank, the type of elastic you're looking for is this: https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Pry-9507B-Non-Roll-Elastic-Black/dp/B004ALJMSQ?th=1 That's the 1" variety. Either 1" or 3/4" is acceptable according to the CRL.

Just curious. There's no issue with the helmet for clearance, but it doesn't look like a Kropserkel helmet, which is in the photo below.

Hi Christina, your bund doesn't look long on its own, but the shape of the old SC chest armor makes it one of the longer chest armor parts. I wouldn't go a ton shorter on the bund. If you're looking at Level 2/Lancer, then you could maybe take up to 1/2" to 1" off, since your bund is coming up over your side straps. Before altering anything, how does it look with your pouches on? The overall shape of the cod is good, but as you said, it's a little wide on you. I would keep the shape, but maybe trim 1/2" from each side and see how that looks.

Ideally you would want to get the cut closest to the indent, which you have marked on line B. Note the strapping from the screen used armor below. You can cut into the indent a bit, in order to fit the strap. Alternatively, you can also switch to 1.5 inch white elastic material, which is allowed by the CRL, provided the color matches the other strapping. The elastic may fit better into the smaller cut. The photos below are from a Mando Scout Lancer application that had a similar issue.

It looks like you've self identified most of the issues I'd point out. Pull your knees up a bit, so they're not dropping into your boots. Bicep armor should be angled directly to the left and right of your body approximately at he 9 and 3 oclock positions. Bicep armor should be angled slightly forward, approximately at the 10 and 2 oclock positions. Velcro helps to hold all those parts in place on your flight suit. Question -- where is your helmet from? In your original post you said it was from Kropserkel, but that doesn't look like a Kropserkel helmet? Is that a New Image helmet?

Based on what I've seen in the above photos, the suit on its own appears to be good for Level 2.

You'll need to flip the elastic to the outside part of the legs, but otherwise that looks pretty good. Thanks for giving us a peek at the new IB scout soft goods.

That would be helpful as well. Thank you.

Thank you, Nate. Would you be willing to share some overall and detail photos of the updated suit from Imperial Boots?

The choice is up to you. Either is acceptable according to the CRL: Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered.

Try contacting Kropserkel about a helmet here: https://m.facebook.com/Kropserkel/ And @spike recently posted about a ready to ship Altmann helmet here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23369-alt-scout-helmet-for-sale/#comment-220020

The SC armor should fit you fine, but their helmet is on the smaller size. The WTF bucket is one of the less accurate buckets out there and frequently comes up due to its build, fit, and assembly difficulty. The WTF helmet also won't clear Level 2/ Lancer if that's important to you. If you're looking for a larger sized bucket, I would check with Kropserkel for their helmet, or with Spike on these forums for his Altmann bucket.

Are they velcroed onto the bund or sewn? If they're velcroed on, just try to make them as even as you can.

The TK community has the advantage of having multiple screen used suits that made it into the wild. That's not the case for the ROTJ Scout, so we have to work with what we have. As a result, there's less exact measurements in the CRL and standards. Try to make it like the picture and you should be good. And if you're not sure, ask for feedback, just as you've been doing.

That is a less common solution, but typically whatever we can't see under the armor doesn't matter in terms of the CRL. So yeah, if that works for you then it'd be acceptable.

I added velcro on my flak vest and my bund attaches to it that way. Never had any slipping issues.

Flat black is fine.

The webbing is going to conceal the exact point where the slot was inserted and the standards aren't super micro about this anyhow. I would personally make the cut at the corner of the right angle, on the horizontal (your red mark side) surface. In the end, it just needs to look like this photo from the CRL:

The lip on the drop boxes is a feature of the SC kit. If you can remove it easily, go for it. If not, then it's fine for basic clearance. I also don't think the long cut will be an issue for basic clearance. If it bothers you while you get further into your assembly, then you can look at making some abs paste to fix it. Keep your scrap plastic trimmings. Just a heads up that, if you choose to do the holster cuts, then you'll need to use a razor saw or a really thin cutting wheel. The cuts are thinner than those on the drop boxes and belt. I encourage you to check out the scoutopedia, as it has a lot of reference photos that will greatly assist your build. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

It'd be between the green and red marks -- maybe a bit closer to the red. Here's an actual scout belt that shows where the cut line was:

Hi Nick, most people reference the Kropserkel helmet build video when constructing their SC helmet. They're very similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iIJxZhyfak Give that a look and let us know if you have any questions.

Looks about in the right place.

For 501st clearance at either level, it doesn't really matter how it looks on the inside, where it can't be seen. That said, it will be both easier and more in line with what they did in the films for you to just rivet the elastic + washer to the tank, and leave it separate from the back plate.