Aradun

Great work so far, and thanks for taking the time to provide such great detail! It will be of immeasurable help to future scouts! Keep it coming!

I would shoot @MrPoopie a PM. He has created his own 3D print files and knows some of the better offerings available.

There are various vendors that make the armor parts, some, like RS Propmasters and Chefs Creations do full commissions. Other vendors focus on soft parts like the boots, flightsuit, etc. If you’re up to the challenge, most of the soft parts can be made by you which will save some money. Many of us, including myself, have gone that route with little to no prior experience. There are great how-to tutorials in the link posted above that will give you a sense of what to expect should you try to make various items yourself. As for the armor, check out the armor comparison thread to get a sense of what’s available and how it compares to the original. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/ Feel free to follow up with any questions as you go through the resources here on the forum.

3D printing can be “okay” for armor parts, but you should vet the sellers here with the armory team so you don’t waste money on files that will require a lot of work or modification to meet CRL requirements. The major issue with 3D files is that the helmets generally aren’t very accurate, and can require a lot of extra steps to correct, that is, if they can be corrected at all. Someone just inquired about 3D prints today, and the armory team gave some solid advice. Give this thread a read. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/24064-is-there-a-best-3d-model-for-a-scout-helmet/

It’s important to note that while certain vendors have been vetted for use within the 501st, nothing sold is ever 501st approved. A vetted vendor means that their product meets current CRL standards, but final approval lies with your GML and how your costume compares to CRL requirements once finished. That being said, looking quickly at the Etsy link provided, I can tell you that the scout helmet will not meet basic CRL requirements. The vents around the bridge if the nose and on the top of the face plate need to be decals as do the traps in the back. The STL model shows that they are real. They will need to be filled in as well as the trap details in the back. I would ask @Chopper to take a look at the images on the site to see if there are additional areas that need to be addressed for approval. With regard to the Shadow Trooper, that CRL is managed by Special Ops, and it would be best to consult with them regarding whether the files meet their requirements. Their forum can be accessed via the link below: https://specops501st.com Let us know if you have any other questions.

Hey Derrick! Glad to see you back at it. All great recommendations above! For EC-17 blaster check out Blaster Works: https://blasterworks.net This is the Darth Voorhees mould under new ownership. Prob one of thee best blasters available and rubber! For the DLT19X, if you have access to a 3D printer, check out Surfinbird132’s model - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/star-wars-dlt-19x-blaster-mg-34. It’s a great version perfectly scaled and easy to print and assemble. Stay away from the Etsy vendors that all show the same pic of the DLT. That version is woefully under scale in terms of width. If you have any questions, just post up and we’ll be happy to help. Endorfinders is now producing exact replicas of the original Espirit gloves. Definitely worth checking out. Next best thing to owning the real ones. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23835-preorder-open-espirit-replica-gloves/#comment-224908

Love that Chewie shot [emoji16].

Great work!

If it turns out you need to retouch the helmet because the paint has been scratched down to the primer, here is the color match for what RS uses. RAL 9010 They actually make a touch up pen so you might be able to use that instead of a rattle can. https://www.crosslinkpaints.com/RAL-9010-Touch-Up-Pen.html I cannot remember if the helmet is finished in matt or satin. @Chopper ? The armor is definitely gloss.

Sweet! Nice work!

That’ll work Matt. Keep in mind that the length of the neck piece for this particular dickie is meant to be turned down like a regular turtleneck and will be worn over your balaclava. It might be hotter than one with a 3” neck.

Here is the main tutorial that most of us use for our boot builds. It really is much easier than one may think. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

For future inquiries… Here is the link to Blaster Works - https://blasterworks.net

Looks amazing, as always! You’ve got sewing great skills Jenny.

Awesome news! Congratulations!

Yep! Same stuff I used as well. https://www.joann.com/sateen-solids/5970074.html

Under Armour Unisex-Adult HeatGear Tactical Balaclava This one does a nice job wicking sweat and keeping you cool.

There’s really on one style of balaclava. You can pull it up over your chin, over your mouth or nose, or wear it under your chin. How you wear it when you troop is up to you. I generally wear it over my chin just below my lip. When you submit for your approval photos, you’ll want to make sure it covers at least your chin. Depending on your GML he may flag your submission if the chin is exposed. Keep in mind too that little one’s looking up at you will see any exposed skin if you go without a balaclava or have it pulled beneath your chin, which depending on their age may ruin the magic.

The metallic square is actually an RS Props label, but yes, the wire was running a 1W UKSWRATH speaker set in the snout piece. He’s taking a break from selling at the moment but here’s his Etsy page: https://www.etsy.com/shop/UkswrathsSpeciality I’ve had two 1W speakers crap out on me, so I bought a 5w TV speaker that I have placed in the back of the bucket and that is working well with the rest of the system.

Here a shot of my lens so you can see the placement of the hot glue. You definitely want a little gap to allow for venting as noted above. Glued along the outside edges and a dab above and below the bridge.

The lens is not inserted in the opening. It is mounted behind it so it will be larger than the opening itself. Would you post a pic of the front of the face plate so that the armory team can better see what you have cut so far?

Looks fantastic! Great job on reshaping the cod. For the gloves, I have my TB number written on the wampa tag, but they do squirrel their way out, to I tacked them in place with a couple of quick hand stitches to the lining.

1/8" once split.

Welcome to the ranks Seb! Absolute fantastic build from start to finish. Well deserved!

It’s tough to say without having it in hand, if the wire is roughly 1/8” or 3.175 mm in diameter, you should be good. It would be best to check out your local store. Sometimes when the two wires are molded together, one wire will be smooth and the other wire will have ridges or lettering embossed on it. That first selection from Amazon looks to be flat, you want to stay with round or it may look off.