Aradun

You’re making great progress on that bucket Bill. Looks good.

Nicely done, Bill.

I use 3D printed inserts from MrPoopie. They’re excellent and allow me to pack my pouches with stickers, trading cards, and half the garrison’s car keys lol. If you want to go the 3D printed route PM MrPoopie about his files.

Great to see you back John. The photos of the finished blaster on Etsy aren’t the best resolution so it’s tough to see details, but parts of it look a little off. The shape of the scope is definitely off and so is the shape of the butt stock. If you compare it to the photo in the CRL you’ll see where the differences are. https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Generic-dlt19x.jpeg I would also inquire of the seller the overall length of the prop to make sure it’s close to accurate. The original was 1219 mm or just shy of 48.” Overall, I don’t think it would be an issue to get approved by your GML. However, a couple of tips if you get this particular model. If you’re going to go with the 19X don’t get the model that has both the scope and bipod. That won’t pass. The 19X doesn’t have a bipod so just get the scope version. Also when finishing the model make sure that the stock, grips, and the cooling fins have no weathering. The stock and grips were Bakelite and the fins were rubber.

Hey Benjamin! Welcome to the PFD! You’ll be in good hands with our Shore Trooper armorers, @KOTrooper and @Minimo . Be sure to reach out if you have any questions!

I think it’s relatively new. The earliest reference I’ve been able to find in the 3D printing community is 2021 and it looks like Amazon did not begin to carry it until September of that year. With TPU being the standard go to and its greater flexibility, it probably hasn’t gotten much traction, which may be why it’s availability is so limited outside the US. Being PLA it has the same issues as PLA in regard to absorbing moisture so it needs to be stored in dry locations, and the filament can stretch if it is pulled, creating issues while printing. And while the base components of PLA are known and pose little risk when printing, the chemical additives companies use to make the PLA flexible are unknown so its safety for printing indoors at home is unknown as well.

The link above wasn’t working for me. Here’s an alternative just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK

Nice work on those patches and vest Dom! Keep up the great work!

You look good brother! I don’t see anything that would pose an issue for basic clearance. Good luck and keep us posted!

For the leather riding patches, the best way to sew them is by machine and to do that you need to seem rip the outer leg. Cut your patches. You’ll have 4 pieces (two front and two back). I didn’t document this part in my build thread, but I sewed the back patches together where they join in the middle and then pinned the rear patches to the suit and ran it through the machine. For the front I sewed each front patch to the rear where the seam forms between the legs then pinned the patch to the front and ran it through the machine. My front patches are not connected to each other where they meet above the crotch. That was done so that I can access the lower zipper of the suit and it’s covered by the cod piece anyway, so it’s not visible. Now, don’t do all that like I did and forget to insert your 2” elastic bands around the leg, other wise you’re seam ripping again to slide the straps in. Once finished turn the suit inside out and then when sewing up the outer leg again, be sure to give it a nice taper from the foot opening up to right around the waist. I used a yard stick, came in an 1” or so at the foot and ran a diagonal line to the waist. Just make sure you are using a needle in your machine designed for either denim or leather. The latter is better, but the former will do. For your mud flap - if your suit is like mine and doesn’t have an elastic waist in the back, you can sew the flap right on the top of waist line. If it is elastic, then add length to your flap and sew it about an 1” - 1.5” above the elastic portion. The added length above the waist won’t be visible with the belt and bund.

Amazon carries it in various brands with prices ranging from mid 20s to mid 30s USD. https://www.amazon.com/FLASHFORGE-Flexible-Printer-Filament-Spool/dp/B09V7HXGKR/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1GSE5SEQAK59N&keywords=fpla&qid=1704498941&sprefix=fpla%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-4

Perfect! Looks like you’re good to go. Thanks!

The links aren’t working currently. If you’re using Google Photos, make sure your sharing/permissions are properly set.

You’re off to a great start Dom! I see you pulled your EC-17 STL files from Thingiverse. Not sure what files you grabbed, but make sure that the tip of the barrel is solid not bored and the same for the front of the scope. A lot of files out there try to make the blaster look real with bored barrel tip and hollowed out scope, but that’s not true to the original. While the blaster is optional and not required for basic approval, if Level 2 Lancer status is something you might be interested in down the line, then a blaster with those “added” features won’t past muster for Level 2. Just something to keep in mind. If you need another blaster, Mr. Poopie has one. It’s no longer available on Thingiverse, but if you PM him he’ll help you out. It also looks like your using the forum’s feature to upload your pics. Just be aware that there’s a max for each user which is around 1 MB. That’s gonna get eaten up fast. See the following threads for inserting pics in your posts. There’s also the free Tapatalk app that allows you to insert images directly into your posts from your phone. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/ Higher res is better for the armory team to see details if needed. The forum’s image hosting is only capable of very low res. Keep up the great work! Looking good!

Congrats Brother! Well done!

Most use tactical padding or a hard hat helmet band. It’s just a matter of preference, but comfort should be your primary focus, as you’ll be donning the bucket for at least 2 hours or more for a troop.

Félicitations Cyril ! S'il s'agit de votre première troupe officielle, je suppose que vous avez fait approuver votre éclaireur par votre garnison. Si c'est le cas, assurez-vous de soumettre une demande d'accès complet en tant que Pathfinder une fois que vous aurez reçu votre TK-ID. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/forum/162-access-requests/

A picture’s worth a thousand words [emoji6]. Here’s a couple of posts with details on uploading pics to your posts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/ You can also download the free Tapatalk app which will allow you to upload pics right from you phone. Not sure if this was shared with you earlier, but here’s a link that will give you tips and tricks on keeping everything in place. It’s worth a look if you have not seen it yet. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Let us know if you have any questions.

For tutorials to help you with your armor build, check out the DL’s armor party video: RS Prop Masters also has a build series for their scout armor that you may find a help reference:

If your unsure where to set the cod for attachment to the jumpsuit post up a pic and the armory team can help dial it in for you. The important thing to keep in mind is that the cod should lay flat against the crotch. If it’s too low it will get pulled in between your legs. Likewise, if the strap is too short you’ll also end up pulling the cod between your legs and the result of both is the dreaded cod crunchies.

Hey Diego, there are some excellent tutorials for making your own soft parts. I’ve linked the main ones below in case you haven’t stumbled across them yet. Let us know if you have any questions! Boots http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ Pouches http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions-and-patterns/ Cummerbund https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23966-rotj-scout-cummerbund-tutorial/ Undersuit http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ Vest http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/12485-build-your-own-vest-wpictures/ Soft Parts Best Practices http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19967-soft-parts-best-practices/ Keeping Stuff Together While Trooping http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Glove Tutorial - Cpt_Chops http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23381-biker-scout-glove-tutorial/ Not sure if you’re building your Kropserkel helmet or if it’s already built, but here’s a tutorial on building that helmet: https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/_iIJxZhyfak?feature=oembed

There is a bit of a learning curve, but most of us who have ventured into this hobby have started where you are at, with little to no experience. Honestly, if you have the funds, invest in a decent machine. Trust me, this may be your first costume, but it likely won’t be your last [emoji6]. This hobby is a bug that has no cure, says the guy whose on his 4th costume in three years [emoji1787]. A good machine is a worthwhile investment. Joann.com has some really good models with Black Friday deals where you can snag a good machine for $100-$150 on sale. If you’re not sure what to get, just ask. You’ll receive plenty of suggestions to help you take the guesswork out of making a purchase.

Congrats! Approval was just a formality [emoji6]. You had a killer build from start to finish.

Congratulations on a great kit and for being our first 41st Elite! Well done!

Tom, if you’re 3D printing, invest in Armorsmith. It allows to to create an avatar using your body measurements and then you can import and scale the STL files, exporting them at the proper size for printing. Takes the guess work out of it and will save to lots of time in case you guess wrong and the print is too small or too big. https://www.thearmoredgarage.com