Aradun

I’m not surprised Iron! Like I said this is going to be great build thread for fellow Scouts and I’m def keeping in mind that Boba build of yours. He’s my fav next to the Scout and a def bucket list build for me. Keep it coming!

Excellent work all around and congrats on the shiny new sewing rig! The only thing I’d grab if you don’t already have one is a seam ripper for when you do need to remove stitching. https://www.amazon.com/Rippers-Remover-Unpicker-Ergonomic-Patterns/dp/B07YFSX6YF/ Another easy way to prevent fraying on elastic is to apply a lighter to the cut edge. Hold the elastic over the flame just close enough to melt the plastic and voila … no fraying. You’re work and documentation are superb. Your WIP will help a lot of scouts down the line. Keep it up! AND I love that PASGT system! Great recommendation!

I agree with Harbinger 100%. V2 looks amazing. Nicely weathered. Excellent work!

I planned to use elastic laces for my build, but took BikerScout007’s advice to leave them unlaced and I’ve had no issues. I did not put any E6000 over the laces covered by the toe cap or the boot shaft which allows me to tighten them a little if needed, but it is very rare, and I can still tie them if I want, but tbh there’s really no need, as long as the boot base fits your foot well.

In addition to the great link above, RS Propmasters walks you through it in their assembly video below. FF to the 6 minute mark and he walks you through attachment to the boot.

Make sure to test spray first if your gonna spray outdoors in the 50s. Most spray paints recommend a minimum temp of 65. If it’s too cold, the paint will start to dry before it hits the armor creating a very rough texture. That happened once on some amor I was working on, and the temp was in the low 60s. It created quite the mess. I needed to sand all the paint off, and wait for a little warmer temp.

Using a regular hot glue gun should be fine. The glue shouldn’t be an issue for the ABS or lens. If your glue gun does have a setting then you can set it so that it’s just hot enough for the glue to disperse. Mine does not, and I’ve used it to mount my lens to my ABS faceplate on two occasions without issue. Of course you don’t want to press the tip of the gun against the ABS to be safe.

Great mods! Nice adjustment with the addition of material to raise the back armor above the tank. Things are really coming along. I see that your tank top has a recessed area for the tank topper to sit in. I’m tagging @Chopper to see if that too needs to be filled in so that the topper can be mounted to a flat top or if it’s okay as is.

You’re making great progress on that bucket Bill. Looks good.

Nicely done, Bill.

I use 3D printed inserts from MrPoopie. They’re excellent and allow me to pack my pouches with stickers, trading cards, and half the garrison’s car keys lol. If you want to go the 3D printed route PM MrPoopie about his files.

Great to see you back John. The photos of the finished blaster on Etsy aren’t the best resolution so it’s tough to see details, but parts of it look a little off. The shape of the scope is definitely off and so is the shape of the butt stock. If you compare it to the photo in the CRL you’ll see where the differences are. https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Generic-dlt19x.jpeg I would also inquire of the seller the overall length of the prop to make sure it’s close to accurate. The original was 1219 mm or just shy of 48.” Overall, I don’t think it would be an issue to get approved by your GML. However, a couple of tips if you get this particular model. If you’re going to go with the 19X don’t get the model that has both the scope and bipod. That won’t pass. The 19X doesn’t have a bipod so just get the scope version. Also when finishing the model make sure that the stock, grips, and the cooling fins have no weathering. The stock and grips were Bakelite and the fins were rubber.

Hey Benjamin! Welcome to the PFD! You’ll be in good hands with our Shore Trooper armorers, @KOTrooper and @Minimo . Be sure to reach out if you have any questions!

I think it’s relatively new. The earliest reference I’ve been able to find in the 3D printing community is 2021 and it looks like Amazon did not begin to carry it until September of that year. With TPU being the standard go to and its greater flexibility, it probably hasn’t gotten much traction, which may be why it’s availability is so limited outside the US. Being PLA it has the same issues as PLA in regard to absorbing moisture so it needs to be stored in dry locations, and the filament can stretch if it is pulled, creating issues while printing. And while the base components of PLA are known and pose little risk when printing, the chemical additives companies use to make the PLA flexible are unknown so its safety for printing indoors at home is unknown as well.

The link above wasn’t working for me. Here’s an alternative just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-FM4001-Quick-Lok-Adapter/dp/B002BUMS8Y/ref=psdc_7491811011_t1_B015MG1SMK

Nice work on those patches and vest Dom! Keep up the great work!

You look good brother! I don’t see anything that would pose an issue for basic clearance. Good luck and keep us posted!

For the leather riding patches, the best way to sew them is by machine and to do that you need to seem rip the outer leg. Cut your patches. You’ll have 4 pieces (two front and two back). I didn’t document this part in my build thread, but I sewed the back patches together where they join in the middle and then pinned the rear patches to the suit and ran it through the machine. For the front I sewed each front patch to the rear where the seam forms between the legs then pinned the patch to the front and ran it through the machine. My front patches are not connected to each other where they meet above the crotch. That was done so that I can access the lower zipper of the suit and it’s covered by the cod piece anyway, so it’s not visible. Now, don’t do all that like I did and forget to insert your 2” elastic bands around the leg, other wise you’re seam ripping again to slide the straps in. Once finished turn the suit inside out and then when sewing up the outer leg again, be sure to give it a nice taper from the foot opening up to right around the waist. I used a yard stick, came in an 1” or so at the foot and ran a diagonal line to the waist. Just make sure you are using a needle in your machine designed for either denim or leather. The latter is better, but the former will do. For your mud flap - if your suit is like mine and doesn’t have an elastic waist in the back, you can sew the flap right on the top of waist line. If it is elastic, then add length to your flap and sew it about an 1” - 1.5” above the elastic portion. The added length above the waist won’t be visible with the belt and bund.

Amazon carries it in various brands with prices ranging from mid 20s to mid 30s USD. https://www.amazon.com/FLASHFORGE-Flexible-Printer-Filament-Spool/dp/B09V7HXGKR/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1GSE5SEQAK59N&keywords=fpla&qid=1704498941&sprefix=fpla%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-4

Perfect! Looks like you’re good to go. Thanks!

The links aren’t working currently. If you’re using Google Photos, make sure your sharing/permissions are properly set.

You’re off to a great start Dom! I see you pulled your EC-17 STL files from Thingiverse. Not sure what files you grabbed, but make sure that the tip of the barrel is solid not bored and the same for the front of the scope. A lot of files out there try to make the blaster look real with bored barrel tip and hollowed out scope, but that’s not true to the original. While the blaster is optional and not required for basic approval, if Level 2 Lancer status is something you might be interested in down the line, then a blaster with those “added” features won’t past muster for Level 2. Just something to keep in mind. If you need another blaster, Mr. Poopie has one. It’s no longer available on Thingiverse, but if you PM him he’ll help you out. It also looks like your using the forum’s feature to upload your pics. Just be aware that there’s a max for each user which is around 1 MB. That’s gonna get eaten up fast. See the following threads for inserting pics in your posts. There’s also the free Tapatalk app that allows you to insert images directly into your posts from your phone. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/ Higher res is better for the armory team to see details if needed. The forum’s image hosting is only capable of very low res. Keep up the great work! Looking good!

Congrats Brother! Well done!

Most use tactical padding or a hard hat helmet band. It’s just a matter of preference, but comfort should be your primary focus, as you’ll be donning the bucket for at least 2 hours or more for a troop.

Félicitations Cyril ! S'il s'agit de votre première troupe officielle, je suppose que vous avez fait approuver votre éclaireur par votre garnison. Si c'est le cas, assurez-vous de soumettre une demande d'accès complet en tant que Pathfinder une fois que vous aurez reçu votre TK-ID. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/forum/162-access-requests/