Aradun

Looking forward to seeing it!!!

If you have your heart set on a DLT-19X the only option for a fully printed, assembled, and finished version is what you see on Etsy. The issues with the Imperial Arms version have been noted in this thread. I've seen this version up close and can confirm the issues noted. IMO the best version available is by Surfinbird132, but it's only available as a 3D print. Now, there are vendors on Etsy that are selling his STL files and making printed copies, though I highly doubt he shared his files with those vendors. Surfinbird132 doesn't own a shop or patreon and does his designs merely as a hobby, so I won't recommend those sellers or identify them. He offers his files waaaay cheaper than what they're being sold for on Etsy too. That being said, I took a look at a new comer to the game, Dbay94 who is located in Rheinbach Germany. His DLT-19X is offered printed, but you'd need to finish it, assemble it, and paint it. The print looks fairly clean, but sometimes what is depicted is better print quality than what you receive, so read through the reviews. It has some nice features, like movable sights and a barrel that breaks down for easy transport and storage. It appears to be properly proportioned unlike the Imperial Arms version. He does not provide an overall length, but it should be close to 1219 mm or 48" as that was the size of the original MG34. The only thing that jumps out at me is that the metal coupling is not visible where the butt-stock meets the main body. There should be two, one on the main body and one on the stock. I don't see that detail in the images provided so I'm uncertain if he merely painted them on of it they are present in the design itself but the photos aren't doing them justice. Not a deal breaker for approval because as long as it's painted and visible, you should be good. I'd read through the reviews and maybe send him a message to confirm the overall length and see at what detail he makes the print. Any layer height higher than 0.2mm and you'll likely need to do a lot of sanding to get rid of print lines. By way of comparison, a low quality layer height would be 0.28mm or higher. If you decide to pick up this model, be sure to post up some picks here so that others can see what is being offered in case this is a viable alternative to 3D printing one yourself.

Excellent work Bill! That looks solid. Well done!

[mention=89560]LocoOttomobile[/mention] it’s merely a amplification for your voice to allow you to be heard through the bucket. It does have a little bit of an audio sound, but nothing like the TKs with the iComm and that is how it should be for scouts. Scouts didn’t have static bursts in the films when they spoke, just a clear audio voice, which the Ukswrath system provides.

Slow and steady wins the race. Looks like things are coming together for you. If you have any questions let us know.

Your course correction is much better Matt. Nice job knocking back those "blaster" marks from your first attempt. As Retrofire noted, less is more when it comes to the ROTJ Scout. I'd definitely reach out to your GML at ISG and get a feel for whether any additional adjustments are warranted as your GML will be the one approving your costume in the end. Make sure when you do your bund and cod that you do very light misting, and just here and there, not the entire piece. If you go too heavy on the fabric, it'll be next to impossible to knock it back and it could pose an issue with clearance. Again, less is more. Keep up the great work. We can't wait to see you suited up and cleared for duty!

Great news! Man that was quick! Kudos to Chef on that great customer service!

Hey Melanie! Welcome to the Pathfinders and thank you for taking the time to document your build. It will be helpful not only for you, but also for future scouts. Just a time saving tip as you move forward with your build. Keep in mind that what cannot be seen when wearing the costume doesn’t need to be addressed. For example, the breast pockets on the coveralls are covered by the flak vest and chest armor so they aren’t visible. You can, as you did, remove them if you desire, but it’d be okay if you chose not to b/c they can’t be seen when wearing the costume. Sometimes these little details can be timesavers as you build your kit. We’re here to help if needed, so don’t hesitate to ask us any questions you may have along the way. Keep up the great work. Things are coming along great.

“Nip and tuck” can easily become never ending, so don’t be afraid to call things a day. It doesn’t have to be perfect. There will be plenty of time to make little adjustments (as well as repairs) once you start trooping in the kit and get a real feel for it. Now get er done! [emoji6]

Once you have everything in hand, make sure to start a build thread here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/96-biker-scout-wip/ We’re here to help you succeed so feel free to ask any questions along the way.

Excellent work Bill.

Before cutting anything, once you have the new flightsuit in hand, use chalk to draw the pattern on the flightsuit, put on the suit, and post a pic. The armorers can then help you make any needed corrections and from there you can trace out a pattern on newsprint or a brown paper bag for the suede. I have the process detailed in my build thread if it helps. https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/ There are patterns there, but it’s best to do what I stated above, as everyone’s height, weight, and body shape is a little different so the pattern will likely need to be modified.

We’re looking forward to seeing your build unfold, and you won’t find any criticism here, just plenty of helpful guidance and advice to get you across the finish line! So, be sure to ask any and all questions! We’re happy to help!

Nope. Just sew it directly onto the suit. No Velcro needed. I thought perhaps you were trying to make it removable for some reason, like washing, but that’s unnecessary.

Bill when you speak of adding Velcro for the butt flap, what are you referencing? Most of us just stitch the suede directly onto the flight suit.

Congratulations! Welcome to the Legion and the Pathfinders!

Good luck and keep us posted!

Looking forward to seeing that first suit up. That’s when the dream starts becoming reality.

I’m really digging that fabric chef uses!

Good call Bill. I had to make that same taper cut for my vest to eliminate the flare. End result looks good.

Ditto for me as well. It’s not a lot of weight, but for me, the added weight sitting on the small of the back did cause a little ache at the end of long troops, which was unexpected.

[mention=89519]AZMandoPaz[/mention] Not that I’m aware of, but part 3 of RS Props helmet build on YouTube may be helpful as you watch them install the bolts: Also, keep in mind that not all helmets are designed for the visor to remain up when lifted. As noted by Chopper above, the SC helmet is not designed to remain open when lifted, whereas, the RS is.

Chopper has you squared away with the repairs. You noted that one of your desired improvements is Lancer status. If that is your goal, you’ll need to remove the mesh from the ears anyway. Per the CRL for basic approval: “Earholes are cut out -- mesh or paint is not acceptable: Area behind earholes inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or tape. No interior white should show from the outside of the helmet when worn” So, if you plan to take the mesh out for your crack repairs, don’t bother replacing it, and then add some black gaffers tape inside the helmet to cover any white that may show when looking through the ear holes. The visor bolts need to be concave. Per the CRL for Lancer: “Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm).” Again, if you’re making upgrades for a possible Lancer submission then pick up a set of bolts like these: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/10270-fs-accurate-tb-helmet-hardware-kit-headband-kit/

Great job Mike! Congrats and welcome to the ranks!

Now let’s get er done! Yeah! Baby, Yeah!