Aradun

There’s really on one style of balaclava. You can pull it up over your chin, over your mouth or nose, or wear it under your chin. How you wear it when you troop is up to you. I generally wear it over my chin just below my lip. When you submit for your approval photos, you’ll want to make sure it covers at least your chin. Depending on your GML he may flag your submission if the chin is exposed. Keep in mind too that little one’s looking up at you will see any exposed skin if you go without a balaclava or have it pulled beneath your chin, which depending on their age may ruin the magic.

The metallic square is actually an RS Props label, but yes, the wire was running a 1W UKSWRATH speaker set in the snout piece. He’s taking a break from selling at the moment but here’s his Etsy page: https://www.etsy.com/shop/UkswrathsSpeciality I’ve had two 1W speakers crap out on me, so I bought a 5w TV speaker that I have placed in the back of the bucket and that is working well with the rest of the system.

Here a shot of my lens so you can see the placement of the hot glue. You definitely want a little gap to allow for venting as noted above. Glued along the outside edges and a dab above and below the bridge.

The lens is not inserted in the opening. It is mounted behind it so it will be larger than the opening itself. Would you post a pic of the front of the face plate so that the armory team can better see what you have cut so far?

Looks fantastic! Great job on reshaping the cod. For the gloves, I have my TB number written on the wampa tag, but they do squirrel their way out, to I tacked them in place with a couple of quick hand stitches to the lining.

1/8" once split.

Welcome to the ranks Seb! Absolute fantastic build from start to finish. Well deserved!

It’s tough to say without having it in hand, if the wire is roughly 1/8” or 3.175 mm in diameter, you should be good. It would be best to check out your local store. Sometimes when the two wires are molded together, one wire will be smooth and the other wire will have ridges or lettering embossed on it. That first selection from Amazon looks to be flat, you want to stay with round or it may look off.

Looks fantastic. If you print this, I’d be very interested in knowing the final weight.

Complete list of approved vendors for the ST can be found here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19024-shoretrooper-vendor-list/

Just be aware if you’re planning on going the wire wrap route, that it will add noticeable weight to the TD. The end result is that the added weight may pull down on your belt. I personally found it to be somewhat uncomfortable and bothersome. It’s a cool project, especially if you’re goal is film accuracy, but I suspect you’ll be more comfortable with your current TD.

Just making sure that you are on the same page with what Chopper is indicating about placement of the lens. Not the best photo, but it’s what I have readily available. Place the lens against the opening and use the hot glue to anchor it in place. You’ll see in the photo that it’s only used on the right and left edges of the lens. Mine also has a dab on the upper and lower bridge portion too. You’re not using it has an adhesive like CA cement or E6000. Your using the hot glue to tack it in place. There will be a gap between the lens and faceplate in the untacked portion, which is normal and actually preferred. It will help with venting heat and help prevent fogging.

Here you go: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ And here’s the link to my WIP with the cod template as a pdf. It’s in a March 27, 2020 post on page 2.

For your helmet, that padding will take a beating with sweat after time. It’s easy enough to replace down the line, but if you want something a bit more durable and customizable consider picking up some tactical padding. https://www.amazon.com/PAXLamb-Universal-Replacement-Motorcycle-Accessories/dp/B07ZKJP11P/ If you’re looking for a pattern for the Cod, I worked mine off of the Lancer WIP that we recommend for people to read. I think I have a pdf uploaded of the pattern in my WIP. You will likely need to extend the length of the top if you have a long torso, but it will give you a starting point to work from. Let us know if you have any questions.

Congratulations Pathfinder!

Great news! Welcome Trooper and well done!

Looking forward to hearing of your approval! Good luck!

Looking good. A couple of dressing issues to keep in mind as you plan the placement of your Velcro for your final submission photos. Once you rotate your shoulder bells back, the biceps should line up with the bells so that they are centered. For your forearms, they should be centered on the V of your gauntlets, which will rotate them forward. They don’t align with the biceps and bells. On the right profile shot, is that black Velcro appearing between the gap between your faceplate and bucket or is it the chin strap? Try and make sure that it’s less/not visible when taking your submission photos. Keep up the great work! Finish line in sight!

Hey @Ninjadrag [mention=80362]MrPoopie[/mention] has STL files for the riot baton, battery pack, buckle, control box and hand ports available for purchase here: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/jedi-fallen-order-biker-scout Read through the description you’ll find a link to his Scout armor on Thingiverse if you need to print that as well.

You don’t want to resize the DLT19X or DLT20A, because it will be very noticeable, especially if someone else is trooping with one. It’ll look as though you have a toy version. It may not even pass muster with your GML when you seek to have it approved. The one thing that is really impressive about these weapons is their size. The 19 and 19X are 48” in length. The 20A is 47”. You won’t look ridiculous, you’ll look like one mean trooper. Keep in mind too that the originals were close to 70 lbs in weight, so to see you toting one effortlessly around will be impressive…most impressive. As for printing one and finishing one, check with your local garrison. You’ll probably have a few members willing to print it for you at a nominal cost, and there are probably some members who could assemble and finish the piece for you too. If you’re looking for files for the 20A I have heard good things about April Storms version on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/652211213/blastech-dlt-20a-laser-rifle-blaster If you’re into the 19 or 19X check out this version here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/star-wars-dlt-19x-blaster-mg-34

Stoked to hear everything worked out. Once everything is in hand be sure to start a WIP. The armorers are happy to help if you have any questions during your build.

I noticed that too. Hoping they’re just out of stock and it’ll return, but it does look like they’re not available anymore. The 1366 was their water resistant version. Any workbook that has a solid wheat color sole (i.e. nothing two tone) should work. The 1180 Kingshow boot in wheat looks like it might work. The sole is the same as the 1366. However, the boot appears to have a suede finish, but it’s tough to tell from the photos. @Chopper would that type of finish be an issue with barge cement or E6000?

Chefs Creations is another vendor (UK Based) that makes custom sized suits that would be worth looking at. https://www.chefscreations.co.uk

@Hask @MrPoopie ?

For the neck seal, if you’re looking to make your own, connect with [mention=87834]Larcwide[/mention] he has some mad skills when it comes to sewing patterns. He made a neck seal for his Shore, but it can easily be adapted for the Scout with a change in fabric. You can purchase a typical TK neck seal, but I’d advise going with the fabric seals and not the vinyl or leather one’s. You’ll find them much more comfortable and they’ll dissipate heat better.