Aradun

Just making sure you understand the clarification provided. You mentioned earlier that you wanted to use 4 rank bars b/c of your birthday. For basic you can use 4 bars with or without the trapezoid. There is no mention of the trap detail for basic. As Chopper noted, the trap is only noted for Level 2 certification and if the trap is present then you must use 4 ranks bars to meet L2 requirements. Now if you are going to put 4 bars on the tank make sure they are each 1/4” thick. That way if you ever decide to pursue L2 all you need is a small piece of black vinyl that you can use to cut the trap detail and add it to the tank.

Using the pattern linked above, it’s all in how you fold the material as you sew it together. Once you cut the pattern out you be able to more easily see how it all comes together. It’s tough to imagine when looking at the diagram, but it’s pretty easy, and I too had no experience with a sewing machine when I started.

You definitely do not need a new pair of boots. The holster is easy to remove with the proper tools. Once removed you can try to repair it or replace it if needed. A lot cheaper option than shelling out cash for new boots.

That’ll do fine!

@clockworksoldier Gree is right. There are lots of tutorials on the FISD Detachment website - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/ Just don’t do rubber or leather. It’s not necessary here. I did a modification of a neck seal that was purchased from an Etsy vendor. That tutorial can be accessed here: @jennyruth with her mad sewing skills made her own. There’s photos of her seal in my thread above, but I’m not sure if she has the build posted in her build or somewhere else: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/20546-jennyruths-scout-build/

Reach out to @Cricket . I cannot find her build for the life of me, but I’m pretty sure she made her own soft goods. If so, she may have a pattern.

Excited to see you take the plunge and watch your build unfold. Be sure to hit us up if you have any questions. It’s great to hear you thinking about going for Lancer. Keep the specs in mind as you build your kit, but don’t let that stress you out. Lancer status is something you can attain down the line. For some perspective check out Mickey’s thread below: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22685-a-few-words-about-level-2-and-new-recruits/ There’s no rush, and we’re happy to get you to that point down the line if that’s your goal. For now, enjoy the build and work towards getting out their to make some smiles happen [emoji16].

Awesome! Once you have it finished take some photos of it and send them to Bikerscout007 and Chopper to review for inclusion in the CRL as an optional accessory.

Congratulations Pathfinder!

Check out the armor comparison thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/ And from there head over to the vendor list: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ If you have any questions about a particular armor let us know.

@Chopper do the T-Bits need to be updated too? The ones shown are the mirrored version. The updated CRL now has them identical.

Hang in there Jared! We’ve all been there. Any armor build is challenging, and when building a scout kit, the tank piece is probably the toughest piece to trim and properly fit. Take a break from the tank for now, and work on other parts of the build so you can continue to make progress. That will also give you some time to see if you can get together with a Garrison mate to work on correcting the holster and tank.

Thanks for the quick response with the additional photos. I’m tagging @Chopper to get his feedback, but the topper looks to be oversized and a bit thick compared to the proportions below: The six rank stripes are typically thinner, but it may not be an issue for basic. Chopper can confirm whether or not the thickness matters for basic approval. He may have some suggestions for the boot. I don’t think it would be as noticeable if the glue were clear instead of yellowed. Perhaps a little white touch up paint would do the trick, buts let’s wait to see what Chopper has to say. Also, you may want to check with your GML about the color difference between the new tank and the back armor. It could just be the lighting in the photos, but the tank looks to be a much brighter white than the back armor. It might not be that noticeable in bright light though.

Great to see you back at it again! Looks like things are coming along. You’re already on correcting the bund. If you can post pics of the holster and boot so the armory team can better see the issue you noted. Can you post some additional photos of your tank too? It could just be the photo, but the pin striping looks a little off and the tank topper looks a little large for the new tank. The pinstripe should be laid out as seen below:

Looks like @PropReplicator2 was working on a model of the blaster back in ‘18. See if he ever completed it.

Before you model one yourself, touch base with the other Rebel Scouts. I swear I saw one holding a proper Rebels blaster in his action shot.

You don’t want anything resembling off white so I’d avoid any cute funny names like blossom white, etc. You’re looking for something along the lines of an appliance white in a gloss or semi-gloss finish.

I’m not surprised Iron! Like I said this is going to be great build thread for fellow Scouts and I’m def keeping in mind that Boba build of yours. He’s my fav next to the Scout and a def bucket list build for me. Keep it coming!

Excellent work all around and congrats on the shiny new sewing rig! The only thing I’d grab if you don’t already have one is a seam ripper for when you do need to remove stitching. https://www.amazon.com/Rippers-Remover-Unpicker-Ergonomic-Patterns/dp/B07YFSX6YF/ Another easy way to prevent fraying on elastic is to apply a lighter to the cut edge. Hold the elastic over the flame just close enough to melt the plastic and voila … no fraying. You’re work and documentation are superb. Your WIP will help a lot of scouts down the line. Keep it up! AND I love that PASGT system! Great recommendation!

I agree with Harbinger 100%. V2 looks amazing. Nicely weathered. Excellent work!

I planned to use elastic laces for my build, but took BikerScout007’s advice to leave them unlaced and I’ve had no issues. I did not put any E6000 over the laces covered by the toe cap or the boot shaft which allows me to tighten them a little if needed, but it is very rare, and I can still tie them if I want, but tbh there’s really no need, as long as the boot base fits your foot well.

In addition to the great link above, RS Propmasters walks you through it in their assembly video below. FF to the 6 minute mark and he walks you through attachment to the boot.

Make sure to test spray first if your gonna spray outdoors in the 50s. Most spray paints recommend a minimum temp of 65. If it’s too cold, the paint will start to dry before it hits the armor creating a very rough texture. That happened once on some amor I was working on, and the temp was in the low 60s. It created quite the mess. I needed to sand all the paint off, and wait for a little warmer temp.

Using a regular hot glue gun should be fine. The glue shouldn’t be an issue for the ABS or lens. If your glue gun does have a setting then you can set it so that it’s just hot enough for the glue to disperse. Mine does not, and I’ve used it to mount my lens to my ABS faceplate on two occasions without issue. Of course you don’t want to press the tip of the gun against the ABS to be safe.

Great mods! Nice adjustment with the addition of material to raise the back armor above the tank. Things are really coming along. I see that your tank top has a recessed area for the tank topper to sit in. I’m tagging @Chopper to see if that too needs to be filled in so that the topper can be mounted to a flat top or if it’s okay as is.