Aradun

Mike, amazing job and fantastic documentation! This will be a great resource for those seeking to add this variant to existing kits.

Great work! Keep it up!

If the one with the maker’s label is correct, just unpick and remove the maker’s label as Chopper suggested and give it a little steam ironing and you’ll be good as gold. It’s really easy, but do the picking from the label side so you don’t damage the front facing or the stitch lines for the ribs. BTW, what maker is it? As for the cod, don’t sew them together and double them up. You’ll create unsightly seam lines on the cod that will not be approvable. The only visible seam lines on the cod are the stitched arch. If you’re leery about adding the stiffener, find a Garrison mate or seamstress that can do it. The cost should be fairly cheap. Some buckram or a thin piece of craft foam is all you need.

You’re doing…I mean Don is doing great work [emoji1787]. Seriously Bill, this is coming along great and you’re making fantastic progress. I’m really looking forward to you crossing the finish line so you can join the Biker Gang and we can get out and troop together as Scouts! And when you have the GML working hand in hand with you, approval will be a shoo-in [emoji6].

Vendor list accessed here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ Tutorial on making your own is here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/

Awesome! Congratulations Trooper!

Keep in mind too that “accuracy” is only evaluated from what’s visible. So weather you use tactical padding, foam, or the strap that was used in the original film on the inside of your helmet, because it’s not visible, it has no bearings on your final approval. So, do whatever is going to keep you most comfortable during a troop.

You look awesome! Good luck with your approval!

Yep, Duke is correct. The only way to ensure a proper fit is to invest in Armorsmith. It’s worth the investment if you plan to print 3D armor. You’ll create an avatar using your own body measurements, then import the STL files so that you can size them properly before exporting them for printing. Just make sure that you keep proportions equal when resizing or your armor will look off. In other words, increase the entire STL file by X% not just the width or height alone. https://www.thearmoredgarage.com

This is great Mike! Thanks for taking the time to document your work.

Before you mount it to the bucket Bill, you may want to tape it in place with some masking tape and see how it feels. Not everyone finds the band comfortable. I’m one of them. Those type of bands give me a headache after about 30 minutes, so pads work better and are more comfortable for me. Hate to see you rivet it in place and then realize it’s uncomfortable.

Looking good!

My only concern would be what looks like a large print line or diagonal bump on the top portion of your snout piece. Your GML may flag that as something that needs to be addressed for basic approval. I recommend shooting that pic to your GML now, to see if it will be an issue, rather than suiting up and then dealing with a delay in getting approved.

The following is from the post Chopper referenced above: “In the film, the codpiece was sewn to the bottom of the vest. A lot of Scouts like to attach it to the back of the cummerbund or onto the flight suit. All of these are fine, but I do not advise sewing it to the bottom of the cummerbund. That's going to give you the wrong look unless you get all your proportions perfect, and even then, it will make it hard to move around.” Where to secure the cod will vary between vendors and how they make them. I Velcro mine to the flak vest, but that’s what worked best for me because I made my soft parts. For Kripton Tops, here’s a reference photo right from his Etsy shop that shows that the cod is attached to the bottom of the flak vest. If he’s still producing them this way, that may be your best bet. If you take a look at this post, it references best practices for keeping everything nice a tight while trooping. Things will inevitably shift and sag while moving about on a troop. This post suggests adding Velcro to the bund and securing it to Velcro on the flak vest so that it doesn’t slide down while trooping. The Velcro is placed at the top of the bund so that stitch lines aren’t visible because the top of the bund sits under the armor. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Do you need to add Velcro to the bund to secure it to the flak vest? No. But it really does help you to keep looking awesome during a troop [emoji6].

For the ROTJ scout, you’ll want Velcro sewn onto the flak vest, not the flight suit, as the former is worn over the latter.

If you’re talking about where everything sits on you, start with the belt. The belt should sit just below your naval. The bottom of the cummerbund sits on top of the belt. For the cod, it depends on how it attaches. Some attach to the inside of the bund. Some attach to the flak vest. Some are stitched to the bund. The bottom of the cod should lay flat against the bottom of your crotch. The strap goes between your legs and generally attaches to flak vest. If the strap is too tight it will pull the cod between your legs creating the dreaded cod crunchies.

About time, lol. Seriously, what a difference Joe! Looks great!

Congrats Matt!

Congratulations Gloria! Excellent build and welcome to the ranks, Lancer!

You’ll be fine with an SC kit. WTF is the one that is inaccurate. Your mark looks fine. Here’s an image from Scoutopedia for reference:

@Minimo @KOtrooper ? Any words of advice?

Nice work! Just be mindful that the elastic will be under tension while trooping, especially when pulling on the elastics as you put on and take off the armor. Hot glue will fail eventually, especially if stored in really hot or cold environments. If you’re looking for quick adhesion then consider using CA glue and hitting it with some accelerator like NCF quick aerosol spray for an instant bond.

Both of those threads are great resources and Strider’s Lancer build is always recommended for those looking at achieving Lancer status. Just be mindful that both of those threads are from 2018 and 2017, so keep the CRL handy. There’s been a few updates to the CRL since then that won’t be reflected in those builds.

@haringjr Yep. Same thread, new posts. Notifications are not sent when a previous post has been edited, which means the armory team may not catch the edit.

Hey Bill! I recommend creating a new post for each change/detail for your build. Updating previous posts may go unnoticed by the armory team, especially if your build ends up spanning a couple of pages, resulting in missed opportunities for feedback.