Aradun

@Chopper My dude! We gotta stop meeting like this or I have to start typing faster. LOL. [emoji6]

Hey Nate! Good to reconnect! 1) For weathering, you can use black spray paint. A rattle can was used to weather the armor on set. Here’s a couple of link on technique and tips: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21493-weathering-ideas-and-tips/ Tea bags are the way to go if that’s the look you want to achieve for the pouches and strapping. Some of the Mando Scout WIPs used tea bags. Just make sure to limit the dye to your pouches and strapping for the hip boxes. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23238-remnant-scout-wip-build-log-psyfoolrulez/&do=findComment&comment=219413 I believe Strider’s Lancer Tutorial has directions as well. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ 2). You fool [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]. Seriously though, that Denix DLT19 is a beast weight wise, but what a beauty. I was tempted to get one. I picked up their Mauser C96 replica to make my wife’s DL44. Love their stuff. 3). Check out this post from@Chopper on how to keep things together while trooping. I incorporated most of his techniques into my build and I can pretty much do jumping jacks without things shifting all over the place. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Let us know if you have any other questions!

Hey Stefan, you can definitely do a cummerbund, cod, and vest, and your own boots too once you find a decent base boot to work off. I started my journey to being a scout with zero experience using a sewing machine and I was not only able to succeed in becoming a scout by making my own soft parts, but was also able to achieve Lancer status with the detachment after my initial approval with the Legion due mainly to the resources available here and the support and encouragement of the armory team. As you know people who have sewing machines and who know how to sew, you’ll have access to help if you have questions. Of course the armorers here will be an excellent resource to you as well. You won’t need a special sewing machine to sew the boot vinyl or suede riding patches, just a thicker needle in the machine. Check out the tutorials below to get a sense of what is involved with making your own soft goods: Boots - http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ Undersuit Mods- http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ Cummerbund- http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22433-cummerbund-tutorial-sort-of/ Pouches- http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions-and-patterns/ Vest- http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/12485-build-your-own-vest-wpictures/ I have some detailed instructions in my build thread, as well as some patterns. Just note that you’ll likely need to modify patterns and such to better fit your size. Be sure to check out other’s build threads as well. There’s great info and tips from builders and the armorers in those WIPs. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/ Great choice in armor, EC-17 and gloves. You’re off to a great start! Be sure to post up any questions you may have as you work on your build. We’re here to help you succeed!

Congrats Peter! Well done and welcome to the Biker Gang!

Hey Jorge! Looking forward to welcoming you to the PFD as an official Scout Trooper! Good luck with your approval. Regarding posting pics. The forum’s ability to host pics on the server is limited in order to keep costs down. If you’re interested in getting those pics posted, then check out the threads below. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/ Another easy way is to download the free version of the Tapatalk app, which will allow you to upload your images directly into your posts right from your phone. EDIT: Chopper, as efficient as ever, replied while I was typing mine. Lol. I love this detachment!

Looking forward to seeing those pics. You’ve done a great job on your build.

Love it! Great photo!

Nice work Chris!

Hey Chris! Sorry for the delay in response. I had to check the gauge. It looks like it’s 18 gauge. I have some 3’ strands of this galvanized steel wire, not sure where it was from as it was given to me a long time ago, but any solid 16 -18 gauge bare wire will work. Crafting wire generally runs 18 gauge. Something like this would work. https://smile.amazon.com/Beadalon-AWS-18-SS-10YD-Artistic-Stainless-10-Yard/dp/B0063DH2J0/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=169GCN5DX9QC2&keywords=18+gauge+steel+wire&qid=1674004693&sprefix=18+gauge+steel+wire%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-10 You don’t need a lot.

You're most welcome Javier! We look forward to having you! If you need any assistance with your build, don't hesitate to reach out. We're here to help you succeed, and if you want to start a WIP (work in progress build thread), please feel free to post your build progress here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/96-biker-scout-wip/

E6000 is another option because it’s viscosity is thicker than contact cement, so it doesn’t get fully absorbed into the Velcro. I even used it to attach the Velcro to my undersuit so that I didn’t need to seem rip my sleeves etc. The key is to use weight on it while it dries. For the armor, I used clamps to ensure a good bond between the armor and Velcro. And for the undersuit, I slipped a thin sheet of plastic in the sleeve and leg (in case the glue bled through the suit - the plastic sheet would be easy to remove if it did). Then I glued the Velcro in place, and set a 20 lb weight on top of it while it dried. I have not had any issues, and my kit is about 2.5 years old. All that being said, Chopper’s way is a much easier solution so I’d start there. I wanted to throw out an alternative just in case. Edit: Reread your post and realized you were talking about strapping. This is the method I used for securing the armor in place to the undersuit so things didn’t shift and move around while trooping.

To add to what Chopper said, if your unit commander and/GML allowed you to use it, it would most likely be limited to non LFL events. Any official event sponsored or approved by Lucas Film/Disney require strict adherence to the CRL. As someone who troops occasionally with a DLT-19X, I can tell you that a 3D printed version is very comfortable. You really won’t need the strap. However, if you find a rubber blaster or have one done in resin, it will have some heft to it and you might not enjoy holding it for prolonged troops. I personally prefer to keep my hands free so that I can interact with fans and photo ops more freely, and reserve the DLT19X for parades that typically have less interaction.

Nice work! If you look at the photo in post #3 above there’s a small notch at the top of the rear site. The best photo I’ve seen to date is in that post.

Awesome Victoria! Sounds like you're off to a great start. The armory team is here to help get you across the finish line so be sure to ask any questions you may have as you work on your build. Looking forward to seeing your progress once everything is in hand. In the meantime, take a look at the following threads, and take a look at some of the WIPs, perhaps search for those that may be tagged with SC so you can see what lies ahead and get some tips and tricks advice as you await BBB. For Reference Photos as you work on your build: If Lancer is your ultimate goal, keep the CRL handy during your build. Don't stress about Lancer though. Your primary goal is to get basic approval and start trooping. You'll be able to fine tune the Lancer stuff after basic approval, but keeping the CRL handy during your build will help you build with an eye towards Lancer. Check out the following post and make sure to look at some of the Lancer app to see what the armorers are noting so that you can plan out your build.

Photos look good. I would say, loosen the strap on your cod just a smidge. You don’t have the dreaded crunchies, but the end is pulled under just a tad. The bottom of the cod should ideally lay flat against the undersuit. These are just dressing suggestions to keep in mind as you dial things in a get ready for submission. Slide your biceps and forearms up maybe 1.5 - 2”. The biceps need to be rotated forward a bit. Knee armor could come up maybe 1/2”. Velcro will help lock thing in place once your ready. As for the pouches, are you talking about the flap closure? If so, then you are correct. You seam the bottom and two sides inside out and then turn it right side in to seam the top. You’ll fold the edge of the top inside on the front and back of the tab and sew it closed. Make sure you use a screw driver or spoon handle to push out the corners of the flap before you sew it closed. If you don’t, the bottom of the flap will be rounded instead of having those sharp crisp edges.

I’m tagging in @MrPoopie and @troygordon2 who may be able to get you sorted on the helmet.

That’s good to know! Thanks for checking and passing the info along!

Welcome to the biker gang brother! Congrats!

Down the line, when you’ve got everything together. Give this thread a read. It’ll give you some great ideas on how to keep everything secure while trooping. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/w18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/

Nice work! I think Pete has you covered. Once you get your shoulder bells attached it’ll be easier to get your bicep and forearm armor properly placed. Eventually you might want to consider placing some Velcro on the undersuit to help secure the bicep and forearms in place and keep them from slipping down or rotating out of place. The biceps should be centered with your shoulder bells and the forearms should be centered on the V pattern of your gloves. If you need to use Velcro on the knee armor, just place it on the bottom portion below the knee. That way you’ll be able to kneel down for photos with the little fans with ease. Can’t make out the edges of your riding patches due to the lighting. Just keep an eye on those corners. If they’ll protruding, just round them as Chopper suggested above. It’s an easy fix if needed. Keep up the great work!

Looks great Kris!

I’m stoked!!! And the CA meet up is a super cool idea. Can’t wait to hear more!

So, keep in mind that how things look when laid out on a flat surface will be very different from how it will look when worn. My advice would be to suit up and tape the cod pattern in place, take a pic and post it up so that the armory team can take a look at how everything fits and where things line up. Then we can give you solid feedback on any alterations that may be needed. The only concern I see is the possibility that those sharp right angles at the outer top of your patches may protrude from the cod when worn. If you look at the CRL photo you can see how the top of the patches curve into the cod. And in the photo of an original suit below, you can see that while the patches come up higher than those in the CRL, they still curve into the cod. I made my patches the same way as you during my build, but@Chopper recommended that I round the corners. I did and there was no issue. But again, before you make ANY changes, don the flight suit, attach the cod pattern and post up a pic, and someone from the team will guide you from there.

Pete gave solid advice. I’ll second the Velcro over snaps for the belt. The snaps are more likely to fail over time when using on cloth. As for the chest strap, your set up is fine. Mine is set up similarly, but sometimes I just can’t get it to thread through the slot and need an assist when suiting up. You won’t have any issue finding someone to assist on a troop. I’d leave it as is.

If you’re removing the patches from your old suit, be sure to use a seam ripper and go slow. The ripper is insanely sharp and if you go too quick, it’s easy to slice your patch especially if it gets hung up and you try to force it. Once removed, you should be able to just pin it to the new suit and restitch it. You’ll need to seam rip the legs to run the suit through the machine. Hopefully your suit has a simple seam on the outside of the leg, which will make it easier to seam rip. Let me know if you have any questions.