Aradun

A guy in my garrison has two mounted in the back of the helmet behind each ear, but he said it really doesn’t do much. TBH I find that you really don’t need them IF your ear holes are opened. If they’re not open or you have them covered in mesh then fans maybe beneficial.

@Minimo @KOtrooper Thoughts?

Guess what? Had the scout out for a troop yesterday, and I DO have a magnet in the resistor on the grip! I never knew that.

WOW!!! I can’t wait to see Raj suited up in this. Looks amazing. Great work on the armor pieces and soft parts.

Yep. I agree too. I just know that RS had some rationale behind the matt/satin finish. Just don’t recall what it was.

Congrats! Excellent work on your build. I enjoyed watching your progress and you did great work weathering. Well done!

Before you put a clear semi-gloss your bucket, have you checked with RS? They swear their research shows the helmet was more muted in sheen than the armor which is why it’s not done in semi-gloss like their armor. I know you’re all about accuracy and trying to model your scout after the hero scout. Perhaps @CatfoodRob can shed some light on the rationale for a different sheen for the bucket, as I cannot recall the particulars, but do remember reading about it or hearing it discussed in one of their videos.

@Minimo @KOtrooper any ideas?

Anything that’s not visible won’t impact approval, so how you decide to rig things is up to you. Snaps will work just fine. However most use Velcro because it allows a little more wiggle room for adjustment. Keep in mind that once those snaps are in they’re set in place, so their placement needs to be spot on. Chopper has an excellent thread on rigging up the Scout for trooping. It’s definitely worth checking out. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Let us know if you have any questions.

I’m not familiar with any tutorials on MonCal armor Juan, but RS Prop Masters has a whole series they did about a year ago on assembling their scout armor. They’ll be some info that won’t pertain to your armor, but it’ll give you a sense on how to assemble things for your kit. The series is available on YouTube. Your MonCal kit is pre-trimmed if I recall, so it should be pretty straight forward, the most complicated part being the shoulder bridge and attaching the shoulder bells. That’s where the RS videos will be of help. Of course, as I’m in your backyard, you can always hit me up directly. I’d be happy to come over and get you sorted.

The only magnet in my DVH blaster is where your magnet presently is (green check). It is embedded in the same place. I’m unaware of Lou using magnets in other portions of his blaster. The DVH’s trigger guard is metal. You might be able to get a long magnet and mount it either in or behind the holster so that it secures the blaster via the metal guard. The new owner of Lou’s molds is hoping to begin production sometime this fall. 🤞

This may be a decent solution to loosen up factory made boots, but I would not recommend this for scout boots that are already crafted. If you just had the Crowprops base boot, then maybe, but as this is a fully constructed boot, this method may loosen, soften, or weaken the glue used in the construction of the boot and to bond the leather covering to the toe cap.

If you can get your hands on a stretcher, you might be able to loosen up that one boot so it’s more comfortable.

Scot, I think that’s absurdly low for a print and with free world wide shipping to boot from Australia. He may be offering low prices to attract customers because he’s new, but I would personally pass. If you know of anyone local or in your garrison that would print one for you I can direct you to some excellent files. Although, I do recommend you touch base with @troygordon2 He does very nice work in resin.

Did mine today 😉. Super easy fix. Wish they were all that simple.

For the position of the biceps, you are right that they appear all over the place in the film, but they should be in line with your shoulder bell. The forearms should be rotated slightly inward. A good rule of thumb is to have the bottom end of the forearm centered on the V split in the glove. Take a look at some of the lancer submission photos and you’ll be able to visually see the proper position.

Hey Tim! Long time since we trooped together! Mickey provided you with a link to Amazon for his suit. Here's a link to the one I got from Amazon. No zippers in the chest for mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VL5LXHH/?coliid=I2GV2SMU67BWEN&colid=17ZNF8WW4QACN&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I did a comparison between the Kolossus and RedKap suits which can be found here if your interested: If you need any help with get the Lancer app together, let me know. I'm happy to get together to assist.

Ordered my Dickie from Amazon today! Super excited about this one.

I second Corey's method. I did that myself after he shared his tip with me and I too have had no issues since. It's a real easy fix. I know you're all about detail and accuracy, and are probably already aware of this, but less is better when it comes to weathering. Don't overdo it. Super happy to see you cross the finish line Brien! Once again, awesome job!

Congrats Brien! A well deserved recognition for a fantastic and solid build!

Looks fantastic Eri. Great job on the weathering and fit of the kit!

There’s an image on page 2 of this tutorial that shows a plastic sign being used to add support. There’s also photos in this thread show what Chopper and Dart are referring to. Should give you some ideas. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/page/2/ In addition to the elastic strap around the leg, I sewed a piece of hook to the inside of my strap where it attaches to the boot (think outer calf) and a piece of loop to the outer calf of my flight suit for additional support.

Great mods Sha Sha. You’re really tightening up the overall look. Excellent work.

Excellent weathering! Looks great!

Your weathering looks great! Nice work!