Aradun

Very, very cool. Really liked the video on your FB page too.

I’m going to toss out a third option building on what [mention=83045]Chopper[/mention] already noted. Rivet the tank topper directly to the tank. Then drill a small hole in the shelf of the back armor that will allow the exposed rivet on the underside of the tank to sit in. With the rivet sitting inside this hole, you’ll have a nice flush surface to use e6000 to glue the tank directly onto the shelf. You should be able to “mark” where to drill the hole on the shelf by setting the tank on the shelf of the back armor once the topper has been riveted to it and pressing lightly so that the rivet makes an impression or mark on the shelf.

Nice! I have the same bin. It’s awesome just how much you can pack in there with proper nesting. I have my ROTJ in there along with my additional flight suit, CB, bicep armor, and neck seal for my JFO Scout. I generally place a flight suit on the bottom as a cushion, nest the the small armor pieces in the chest/back, and set that on the left (opposite the wheels). Then nest the helmet in the middle wrapped in my vest, with the boots on top of each other on the right with the wheels. I have a tray that goes over the boots. Belts are nested on top with CBs and the other flight suit layered on top as another cushion. My set up pre JFO addition can be seen here. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21153-packing-for-deployment/&do=findComment&comment=203034

Congrats! You put together a great build with the mods you did to the original armor. Well done!

To add to what Chopper has said, I recently used a sheet of .08 ABS to make 4 large washers roughly the size of a quarter and used that with a metal river washer on the inside of the boots to serve as a backer for the holster rivets. I’m not climbing trees or battling Ewoks when I troop, but I’ve had my rivets tear through the vinyl on two occasions while trooping now, the most recent of which was last week. The first one left a nasty whole that needed to be patched because there was no way to re-secure the new rivet to the boot. The large ABS washer will provide additional strength and its larger size will ensure that it doesn’t happen a third time.

Great work. Things are really coming together nicely!

Nope. I tried it, but the mags were too thick. So I went with Velcro, and because RS faceplates have a tendency to be just a bit askew I only used it on one side. Just took some white Velcro that I had on hand for my build, cut it to size, and attached with e6000.

We have all of the reference pics available at Scoutopedia in case you need any other reference photos. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Congrats! Well done!

Sweet!

The change is the talk of the town, but I find I have to correct almost everyone who talks about it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to correct people who are complaining that they have to change their collar, or ask if there’s going to be a six month grace period. That’s when you find out that they haven’t looked at the CRL or watched the video. I’ve become the open collar emissary. Lol.

A guy in my garrison has two mounted in the back of the helmet behind each ear, but he said it really doesn’t do much. TBH I find that you really don’t need them IF your ear holes are opened. If they’re not open or you have them covered in mesh then fans maybe beneficial.

@Minimo @KOtrooper Thoughts?

Guess what? Had the scout out for a troop yesterday, and I DO have a magnet in the resistor on the grip! I never knew that.

WOW!!! I can’t wait to see Raj suited up in this. Looks amazing. Great work on the armor pieces and soft parts.

Yep. I agree too. I just know that RS had some rationale behind the matt/satin finish. Just don’t recall what it was.

Congrats! Excellent work on your build. I enjoyed watching your progress and you did great work weathering. Well done!

Before you put a clear semi-gloss your bucket, have you checked with RS? They swear their research shows the helmet was more muted in sheen than the armor which is why it’s not done in semi-gloss like their armor. I know you’re all about accuracy and trying to model your scout after the hero scout. Perhaps @CatfoodRob can shed some light on the rationale for a different sheen for the bucket, as I cannot recall the particulars, but do remember reading about it or hearing it discussed in one of their videos.

@Minimo @KOtrooper any ideas?

Anything that’s not visible won’t impact approval, so how you decide to rig things is up to you. Snaps will work just fine. However most use Velcro because it allows a little more wiggle room for adjustment. Keep in mind that once those snaps are in they’re set in place, so their placement needs to be spot on. Chopper has an excellent thread on rigging up the Scout for trooping. It’s definitely worth checking out. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Let us know if you have any questions.

I’m not familiar with any tutorials on MonCal armor Juan, but RS Prop Masters has a whole series they did about a year ago on assembling their scout armor. They’ll be some info that won’t pertain to your armor, but it’ll give you a sense on how to assemble things for your kit. The series is available on YouTube. Your MonCal kit is pre-trimmed if I recall, so it should be pretty straight forward, the most complicated part being the shoulder bridge and attaching the shoulder bells. That’s where the RS videos will be of help. Of course, as I’m in your backyard, you can always hit me up directly. I’d be happy to come over and get you sorted.

The only magnet in my DVH blaster is where your magnet presently is (green check). It is embedded in the same place. I’m unaware of Lou using magnets in other portions of his blaster. The DVH’s trigger guard is metal. You might be able to get a long magnet and mount it either in or behind the holster so that it secures the blaster via the metal guard. The new owner of Lou’s molds is hoping to begin production sometime this fall. 🤞

This may be a decent solution to loosen up factory made boots, but I would not recommend this for scout boots that are already crafted. If you just had the Crowprops base boot, then maybe, but as this is a fully constructed boot, this method may loosen, soften, or weaken the glue used in the construction of the boot and to bond the leather covering to the toe cap.

If you can get your hands on a stretcher, you might be able to loosen up that one boot so it’s more comfortable.

Scot, I think that’s absurdly low for a print and with free world wide shipping to boot from Australia. He may be offering low prices to attract customers because he’s new, but I would personally pass. If you know of anyone local or in your garrison that would print one for you I can direct you to some excellent files. Although, I do recommend you touch base with @troygordon2 He does very nice work in resin.