Aradun

Congratulations Scout Trooper!

Your going to run into several issues if your looking for a hard case. First is finding one with the proper dimension. You’ll need a case that’s at least 52”. The next standard size down is 48” and the DLT comes in just over that. The other issue is the width of the case. You’ll need something at least 7” thick unless your cocking rod or feed box cover are removable. Then you could probable get away with 5 inches. A removable scope would cut the height down to 8” otherwise you’re looking at at least 11” (10” would be a tight fit if the scope wasn’t removable. ) Once you work out the dimensions the next issue is the cost. That size case can be very pricey ($150+). I found this, but it will only work if your cocking rod and the box covering the feed port are removable because it’s only 3.75 inches thick and even then it might be a very tight fit. https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Pro-Max-Scoped-Rifle-53-63/dp/B00AJ3ABAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=63XZ3RJPTEPW&keywords=hard+rifle+case+52+inch&qid=1676122839&sprefix=54%22+hard+rifle+case%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-4 My barrel is actually removable, so if you have a removable barrel that may decrease your cost because you could go with a smaller case (30” - 36”). Something like what I have linked below could work but you’d still likely need to remove the cocking handle or box cover in addition to removing the barrel. Keep in mind the dowel size too if you want to keep it in the case. https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Tactical-Watertight-Dust-Proof-Protection/dp/B07B7ZMKZF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=16VSKD1PAEA4U&keywords=hard+rifle+case+36+inch&qid=1676123686&sprefix=hard+rifle+case+36+inch%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-3 Measurements are key. If you have a hunting supply place or gun shop near you where you can bring in the DLT and see what fits best, that would probably be best. Then the guess work is removed.

Go Team! Well done everyone! Congrats to @JollyRajR on being the first in the Legion and bringing this one home!

This is great Mickey and I love the tie in with helping the local community. I’m sure the event will be epic! Full steam ahead. Sadly I won’t be able to join the festivities due to my son graduating that weekend.

I’ll third the Armorsmith app. It’s about $30 bucks or so, but given the price of filament and what you could end up wasting trying to guesstimate what size to print at, it’s worth the investment. You’ll be able to create an avatar using measurements from your own body measurements so you’ll get a real sense of how the pieces fit on you. You can then tweak the size of the piece to get it just right and export the modified STL file for printing.

Great work Scout Trooper! Congratulations and welcome to Pathfinders!

I know scouts and other bucket heads in my garrison who use a dab of soap on the inside lens and rub it in with a microfiber cloth. They swear by it. Personally, fog isn’t an issue for me, so I’ve not tried this method myself.

Good luck brother! Keep us posted.

Congratulations Kevin! You’ve put together an excellent build that will be a great reference for future scouts! Well done and well deserved. Welcome to the Pathfinders, Scout Trooper!

You definitely want to do a set up similar to the Duke’s above. Just using the small metal washer alone will result in failure over time because the stress on the belt will eventually pull the washer through the fabric. Adding the plastic abs backing will alleviate that issue.

Nailed it! The boots look great!

@DaHoff The wire is wrapped around the ends of the cooling fins found on the barrel shroud. Depending on the print, there should be a little notch on the ends of the fins. That notch is for the wire. The wire was used to help secure the fins to the barrel so that they wouldn’t fall off during production.

Tagging @Chopper as he did a recent review for the Armory team.

Welcome to the Detachment Brother! Congrats on a great build and your approval!

You won’t be able to get a perfect match as the soles are different. As as the Duke said, close enough is fine. Here’s a couple of shots of my boot from my build. You’ll see not all of the notches in the sole line up with the cut outs on the boot. I reworked the pencil drawings multiple times until I settled on this final iteration. Play with it a little bit and once you have something you like, post up pics and the armory team will give you feedback. Don’t sweat it though. Close enough is what you’re shooting for.

Good luck Jay - looking forward to your approval!

I believe Retrofire was referring to Dart’s post above. You’ve got solid advice from everyone thus far so you’re in good hands. Hit the team up with any questions you have as you start working on things. We’re here to help!

Well done Nathan. Congratulations!

Sounds like your off to a great start. Regarding the posting of pics, the forum is limited in its ability to host photos in order to keep costs down. See the links below concerning how to get photos posted. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/ Most people use an image hosting site like Imgur to insert their photos. The free Tapatalk app is another convenient method that allows you to post photos directly into your posts from your phone. Keep up the great work!

Great work Frank! Final product looks fantastic.

Man that is really clean cast! I also love the little details Joe put into the packaging too, from the bouncing “rubber” blaster forming the “W” on his logo and his paying homage to “stormtroopers can’t hit anything” with his “inspection paperwork” and the blaster burn off the target.

I think approval is in the bag Nate! You look great!

@Retrofire pulled the trigger on the reply before me. I’m always a step behind these pros. See the CRL reference photo below. I can’t tell from the angle, but are the black lines in the gray trapezoids on the back of the helmet indented too? If so they’ll need to be filled in as well.

Where was this zipper located? Keep in mind that if it was the main zipper going up from the groin to the neck that it won’t be visible when in costume, as it will be covered over by the flak jacket, cummerbund and cod, not to mention the armor. As for ordering a RedKap from the US, they do tend to run a bit small in the length of the torso. Some compensate by ordering their “long” version which gives a little more length in the torso making it easier to get in and out of but you may need to do some extra hemming of the legs. I have a Kolossus and a RedKap and find the Kolossus a more comfortable suit and truer to size. If you’re concerned about fit, I recommend exhausting local resources before ordering anything from overseas. Arne might be able to provide you with some local sources to check out.

Agreed! When I weathered my bund, boots, cod, and pouches, I used a rattle can, but practiced on some scrap fabric first. Hang it up to spray it rather than laying it on a flat surface will make it easier to work the rattle can for the desired effect. The key is to start your spray off to the side of the item and then quickly rake it across the item. That will keep you from creating “blaster burns”. Another tip is to start at a nice distance to get light weathering and then come in a bit closer on a second pass if you feel the need for more. Less is always better when it comes to weathering on a ROTJ Scout. Definitely practice though to get a feel it and to iron out your technique!