Aradun

Thanks Corey! That’s way easier than I was making it. One more question. I’m trying to get the new painted parts to better match the color of the RS ABS/Paint. I picked up ACE Ivory spray paint, which is actually Valspar. The stuff is garbage, but the good news is that it’s garbage. It takes multiple, and I mean multiple coats to get anything decent, but given that I’m trying to blend the color, the light misting of this paint is giving me the desired effect by allowing the undercoating of Rustoleum Blossom White to still show so it’s actually knocking back the brightness of the Blossom White. Here are side by sides in shade and sun for comparison. Blossom White is the left. Blossom White with ACE Ivory (three light passes) in the middle, and the original RS on the right? Thoughts, feedback? In Shade: In partial Sun: You can see the original weathering showing through the ACE. I think if I use an airbrush for weathering and a couple of coats of clear gloss to give it a smoother and shinier finish, we might have a winner, but I definitely what some expert eyes weighing in on this before I proceed any further. Edit: one more with indoor lighting

Thanks Peter [emoji6]! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Chopper Corey, do you have any measurements for the trap decal used on for the four bar rank version of the tank? I need to convert my 6 stripe rank bars to the four stripe version in order to make my tank compatible for both the ROTJ and JFO versions and need to add this element. It looks to be about 1/4" wide, with the trap being 1 1/4" in length along the bottom and about 3/4" in length at the top. Does that sound about right? Also, just confirming that the rank bars themselves are 1/4" wide for the four bar version with 1/4" space between them.

Awesome news Pat! Congrats Pathfinder! Welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good suggestions Corey. Thanks!

@Chopper @Retrofire do either of you have any thoughts on how I might be able to remove the tank topper from my RS tank? They use a faux rivet and merely glue it with some type of CA glue. Oh, how I wish it was e6000! I won’t be able to used Justin’s tank for this build. I printed it, but it just doesn’t work with the RS back armor, so mixing and matching isn’t an option. This leaves me with my original plan, which was to simply have two interchangeable toppers. I’m even thinking of just removing the large “dial” from the RS kit and creating two separate dials with appropriate paint schemes that would attach via magnets to the topper. Either way I need to remove the original topper, but past experience with the TD end caps and rotating the large greeblie on the TD has demonstrated that whatever CA glue RS uses is very unforgiving when trying to separate it from the ABS. I thought, as both of you are modelers, you might have experience with having to undo CA glue. The other thing I want to run by you is paint to match the RS. Blossom White Rustoleum paint is definitely better than regular white for the RS kit, but IMO it’s still too white. Looking at the comparison below, I’m think of testing Antique White. I can always spot RS armor in photos because of the armor’s color difference from other manufacturers. It has a much more creamy color than white. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glove: My goal here was to NOT have to buy a separate pair for this build but to be able to swap out the JFO parts between the ROTJ costume. To that end I embedded magnets in the two glove greeblies. I used a 1 1/8” magnet for the large greeblie and a 1/2” magnet for the smaller greeblie. TIP: if you decide to go this route be careful of the magnet size and placement of the magnet on the large greeblie. If it’s too large or placed directly in the center, embedding it will have it set into the inner channel for the red tube. I have my 1 1/8” magnet off set to avoid interfering with the tube. Turning my Wampawear glove inside out to expose the inner lining, I marked where the magnets for the glove would mount to the glove, and glued them in place using e6000. TIP: Make sure your magnets are oriented properly otherwise they will repel the greeblie. I marked the tops with a Sharpie. I also used magnets on the reverse side of the glove to hold the magnets securely while the e6000 dried. After the glue set, I used some scrap fabric from the coverall pockets to create a patch which was sewn over the magnet. This will keep the magnet from being ripped off by your hand as you don the glove if left exposed. It will also allow this method to remain viable if the glue gives at some point because the magnet is now secured to the glove via the pouch. TIP: When sewing the patches, you’ll have to do so by hand, and you’ll need to make sure not to push the needle through the leather. It was pretty easy to sew this to the lining without snagging the leather, but it is still a good idea to be cautious. In case you’re wondering, you really do not feel or notice the magnets or patches while wearing the glove. Then using[mention=81867]RickyBoyBlue[/mention]’s method of inserting magnets into the greeblie’s holes for the tubes, and then inserting flat head screws into the tubes, the tubes are securely locked in place once inserted into the greeblie. I used 3mm magnets. You might be able to go larger, but 5mm might be the max. I did grind the screw heads to fit inside the greeblies. Here’s the final outcome. The magnets work like a charm. Those greeblies are going anywhere! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Riot Baton is complete with electronics. The build for the electronics is posted in its own thread to make it easier to find for anyone interested in adding electronics: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23006-jfo-riot-baton-electronics/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I concur with Chopper. If you’re interested, I did a comparison of the two in the thread below. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22827-red-kap-vs-kolossus-coveralls-a-comparison/ Owning both, I prefer the kolossus for it’s overall comfort. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck Mike! Solid build! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a link to the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/187t2wg19chznig/IMG_3628.mov?dl=0 I've got a few more little details to add, like the silver potion on the one black button and the copper band around the main top piece of the staff. You can certainly put in a usb port to make it easier to recharge the battery rather than removing the end cap, module and battery itself. I thought about it, but decided simple was simply better for me with this being my first time working with soundcards and running electronics.

The baton was printed without any modification in PLA+. I used a Dremel to create a channel down the length of the ½” dowel used in the prod shaft to allow the wiring for the LED to sit in the dowel. The wider notch seen in the photo below was to allow for the connection of additional wire length to the existing wiring on the LED. The other option I considered was using 3/8” plex which has the same diameter as the ½” dowel. The benefit of the plex is that it’s hallow which allows you to run the wiring through the shaft with ease. The only drawback is that the plex is somewhat flexible so I opted for the dowel because it was sturdier. TIP: Make sure to run your addition wire through the small hole at the bottom of the shaft and then through the shaft itself before laying it in the dowel. If you don’t, you’ll just make it a bit more challenging to run your wire through that small shaft hole after the fact. TIP: Make sure to use enough wiring to allow for your shaft to extend and retract. I snagged a soundboard mount for a light saber from Thingiverse and modified it to fit the Sabercore sound module. I used e6000 along the edge of the sound module to secure it in the module mount. Once printed, it was roughly the same size as the battery housing so I used medium 3M Command strips to mount the back of the module housing to the back of the battery housing. I added a piece of pvc pipe to the main tip piece and cut out a channel to make the prod shaft retractable. The hard part was trying to figure out where to put the speaker and the tactile switch. I took the end cap and cut off the end using a hacksaw. Once removed, used a 1” spade bit to create a shaft in the bottom of the end cap itself. The speaker was about 1 1/8” and I didn’t have a larger spade bit, so I used my Dremel with a sanding band on it to get the hole wide enough accompany the speaker. For the cap that was removed. I drilled fine holes to allow the sound to radiate through. In hindsight, I would have preferred to have printed the entire end cap at 100% infill instead of 20% to make drilling, gluing and set up a bit easier. It’s not necessary, but I imagine that it would provide for a cleaner build process. Then came the tactile switch. I was trying to think of where the heck to place this thing. I didn’t want to use a typical saber switch because they are large and I didn’t want to modify the look of the baton or do something that might render it non-approvable by my GML. I thought I’d place it underneath the T-shaped detail greeblie on the end cap, as it was the perfect spot. Pressing on the greeblie would activate the sound module, but then realized that there was no way I be able to slip the end cap back over the PVC pipe due to the wiring. Then I realized that the switch was the perfect size to slip through the “sound holes” I drilled in the cap piece. So, I created a channel to run the wiring for the switch past the speaker and up into the end cap. Once the channel was cut, I carefully hot glued the speaker into place about 3/4” from the bottom. Forgot to snag a pic of this one. Then the wiring was soldered to the switch, I inserted it into the center hole of the cap and hot glued the switch in place. e6000 was used to reattach the cut piece back onto the end cap. I’ll paint the switch black to hide it better, but this really is a perfect spot because I can activate it with my pinky finger while holding the staff. Kids will love it. Big kids too! Then it was pretty much connecting the wiring for the speaker, tactile switch, LED, and battery to the board using the diagram provided by Sabercore. Easy-peasy. I’ll see if I can get a video uploaded soon.

Inspired by @gmrhodes13, and his wicked electronic mods for his Riot Baton, I thought I'd undertake the challenge myself. This build used @MrPoopie's awesome JFO 3D print files. Thank you Justin! Supply List 22 Gauge Electrical 2 Wire 18650 Rechargeable Battery (Looks like a AA but it’s much larger) 18650 Charger 18650 Battery Clip / Housing Saberbay 28mm X-Bass 4 ohm/3W Speaker 6mm Brass Tactile Switch Lightsaber Soundboard Module – Sabercore Viridian and Crimson Pre-Wired 5mm Blue LED Diode Lights Electronics Soldering Kit (if you don't have one) Note: Some people like to use different colored wires for the speakers, LED, switch, etc. that are getting wired to the soundboard. I just used black and red for everything because it was what I had on hand. I know absolutely nothing about light sabers or wiring electronics. This was a first for me, but it was a relatively easy learning curve. The most challenging thing was to find a decent soundboard that wouldn't break the bank. Glen used the electronic from a toy saber he had on hand, but the only toy saber I had was an old one belonging to my son and it hand Luke's voice programmed into it. The sound module from Sabercore was just $18.00 so I took and chance and was not disappointed. The module is pre-programmed so you cannot modify it like more expensive boards. It has has light side and dark side options for sound effects, and includes the following options: low/high volume, swing sensitivity, strike sensitivity, and LED options (pulse, steady, etc.). What more do you need? This particular module recommends the 18650 rechargeable battery. Other soundboards may have their own power source requirements so be sure to note that when planning your own build. The LED light came with a resistor pre-wired so that was one less thing to worry about. The tactile switch is used to power on the baton and cycle through the various options pre-programmed into sound module. That's about it now onto the build.

That link Chopper provided is the holy grail for trooping. Those tips and tricks keep everything locked nice and tight. Things don’t droop. They don’t shift. Your kit is tight looking from start to finish when trooping. Best of all, they are pretty simple additions to incorporate into your build. I highly recommend it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks great! Excellent job weathering it too! I should point out that if you have to run this by your GML for approval you may get flagged for weathering on the cooling fins on the barrel shroud. They were rubber and had no weathering. There should also be no weathering on the butt piece and the grips. I can’t tell from the photo is they are weathered or not. The former was wood (I think the black ones were Bakelite, but would have to double check), and the grips were Bakelite too I believe, similar to the E11 so there was no weathering on those parts either. Not all GMLs are that picky but just so its on your radar just in case. Again, fantastic job. Love it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, that is wicked looking! I love it!!! What a collection! Who did you use to have your stickers made?

Using the plastic from the face shield was genius. The finished result looks great!

This is great Andy and will help future Pathfinders when weighing options. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s great to see you back at it Jenny! Glad things are progressing for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A regular sewing machine will be fine. They sell heavy gauge needles which will help you sew things like leather and heavy duty Velcro, but I was able to use a standard needle for most of my build. You’d be looking a needles specifically marked for use on denim or leather if you want to get a heavy gauge needle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As an avid paintball and occasional airsoft player, the concerns I have aren’t so much from the bb’s doing damage to the ABS, as the environment doing a number on the ABS. From knocking that plastic against rocks and trees, laying on the ground, I’d bet you’d be looking at serious repairs after every outing. Thinking about the scratches alone make me shudder! The ABS might hold, but what about say, the rivet on your knee armor, or strapping if it gets snagged. That will probably be your bigger issue. And I envision your tank taking a beating too depending on how you have it secured. Heck, I have minor repairs after almost every few troops as glue gives way, minor stress cracks occur and soft goods get snagged and all I’m doing is smiling and waving lol. Not to discourage you, because it sounds like an awesome idea, especially if you have your hands on the Airsoft version of the E11, and let’s be honest…you’d look badass, but for the price of the armor, I myself would be reeeeally hesitant. IMHO doing this in TK armor is pointless. There is barely any mobility or vision as it is. You might as well stand midfield and let everyone have at you [emoji1787]. That being said, if you go through with this make sure to do something about those TB lenses. You don’t want to lose an eye, and you had better post some gnarly pics! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude!!! It’s great to see you back at it Brien. Looking forward to seeing you complete this. Congrats on the weight loss too. That’s a good problem to have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Matt. I had some time during a break in the weather last week to get things painted. Now I just need some time from work to get caught up on the build and posting. I’ve got too many irons in the fire at the moment [emoji6]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude what a difference. That KriptonTop suit looks way better on ya. Good purchase. Nice Pathfinders tat too (see what I did there [emoji6]). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man you killed it! They are sharp looking and the Crowprops soles are amazing. Great work. Good tips for those who use the Crowprops boots as a base too.