Aradun

I’m sure you’re already aware, but I’d also add a reminder to round the edges of the backing plate for the holster. Squaring off the edges would be detrimental to your vinyl and it would only be a matter of time before those sharp edges tore into your boot.

Here’s what I used from Joann’s for my Flak Vest. https://www.joann.com/classic-sportswear-cotton-twill-fabric/16734808.html

Excellent point! Thanks for mentioning it! It’s definitely worth the investment.

@Minimo @KOtrooper Any thoughts?

@Dyne Mazic the creator pulled his stuff from Thingiverse sometime last year due to others using his files for profit on sites like Etsy. He has them posted on Cults3D for a very nominal fee. They’re excellent files and worth way more than the $4.34 he charges now. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/star-wars-dlt-19x-blaster-mg-34

I don’t. It was just a piece of craft foam that came in a 8x10 sheet. It’s the same thickness as those craft kits used in kids crafts.

A backer for the holster rivets is a good idea. I’ve added them to mine after two rivets tore through. No issue now with the ABS backer. Also, if you’re looking for info on the Cod, you can check out my WIP. I’ve got a pattern posted there. You may need to modify it for your needs, but it’s pretty step by step for the build. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/page/2/ Let me know if you have any questions.

Congrats on your approval. Outstanding and welcome to the Pathfinders!

Hey David! I have a Ukswrath mic and speaker too. Chopper linked my build above and it has pics of my setup which is similar to yours. However, I’ve blown two of the speakers over the last two years. The volume was never at max due to similar feedback concerns so I don’t know why they stopped working. The first one lasted just over a year and the replacement lasted around six months, so I scrapped the Ukswrath speaker all together and replaced it with a nice 5w speaker, which is much larger. By comparison Ukswrath’s speaker is 1w. I have the new speaker mounted behind my head, just below the Ukswrath powerpack. My RS helmet is fully padded on the inside and everything fits well. The speaker is sold as a 2 pack. I’m only using one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0822YZPR9 Naturally you don’t need foam to reduce feedback if the speaker is mounted behind your head. For your existing set up, you don’t need a lot of foam over the Ukswrath speaker in the snout. A very thin piece of dense foam will do the trick nicely and just placed over the hole where the wiring goes to the speaker in the snout. If you have a foam piece over the mic tip all the better. Sometimes his set ups include a foam mic tip, sometimes not depending on what brand he has in supply. As for fans, are you having an issue with fogging or is it a heat thing? I’ve not found any need for fans. In my experience, most scouts find that they don’t need them. The open ears, gap between the lens and nose piece, and openness at the bottom, seem to allow plenty of air circulation so that there’s little to no issue with fogging.

Your blaster photo appears to have a silver finish instead of black. Is it a shot of a base coat before you applied the flat black? If your concern is how shiny it may be with the gloss coat, you may want to test how that gloss looks over the flat black first by testing on some wood. Most use a semi-gloss or flat clear coat. I’ll second Dart’s observation about letting that Rusto cure fully. I’d give it several days. Mixing different brands can cause all sorts of reactions from cracking paint, to blistering, which means sanding and refinishing. If you can pick up a can of Rustoleum clear coat in your desired finish you’d be better off.

@Gree23 at the time this was posted Larcwide had not yet submitted for approval. He was approved recently in February. You’re good to go!

So for basic approval the bund cannot extend below the belt. “Extends from just under the chest armor down to the belt.” A bund size between 8”-9” works for most, but as Chopper said, don’t make any adjustments until we see how it looks with the chest armor. As for the soles, you can use some acrylic paint to paint them. Scuff the sides with some 400 grit sandpaper and then wipe them clean with some rubbing alcohol. That should create a decent surface for the paint to adhere to. The paint will eventually start to flake off over time, but just touch it up as needed. @Chopper may have a paint recommendation for you for the soles.

The Duke noted the two main ways: using hook and loop (which allows for a little adjustment) and gluing the strapping directly onto the armor. If you go the glue root just make sure the the length of the elastic is little shorter than what you need so that it provides a nice snug fit and won’t slide around on you. When it comes to those things on your costume that aren’t visible from the outside, how you attach it is up to you. Either of the above methods will be fine.

Just a quick note to point out that our awesome DL has hit a milestone of just over 10,000 posts (10,073 as of today), the most posts of any forum user, and a testament to his dedication to and involvement with this detachment! @BikerScout007 also has 10,099 likes for the content he has posted over the years. Thank you Mickey for all you do for us in your role as DL. Pathfinders lead the way!!!

Really nice work!!!

Welcome Brother! Sounds like you’re off to a great start. I too am not familiar with Carmac’s Prop Shop, but the armory team is always on the look out for new vendors. If you use an image hosting service for your photos the team will be able to better see the details as was mentioned above. The Tapatalk app is another option, and it allows you to post to the forum and insert photos right from you phone. The free version is fine for most users. When you have time and get the image thing sorted, if you could post up some detailed photos of the goods you purchased from Carmac’s that will help the armory team evaluate the suitability of Carmac’s as a vendor for future Scouts. We’re here to help you succeed, so ask any and all questions you may have.

Congratulations Mike! Great build and well deserved!

Welcome to the PFD Avi! Super exited about your build and really looking forward to being able to troop with you.

I’m glad to hear that you finally crossed the finish line. Congrats on your approval! It was a long year and a half for sure with you not receiving the armor you paid for and having to shell out addition funds for a new set, but you persevered. Congratulations again Trooper!

Congrats David! Great job!

And here I thought you were going to teach me something new! Lol. Sorry for the delay, in getting back to you. The back of the neck seal measures 2 5/8” and the front measures 2 1/8”. Those are the measurements for the ribbed portion.

Hey Jenny! The neck seal does contour in the front which makes it much more comfortable. I’m not sure what you’re referencing when you refer to the measurement for the seam part. I just thread the needle and press the foot peddle thingy lol. That’s about the extent of my sewing lingo.

Sweet Jay! Congrats!

Looks like a pro knocked that out! Great work! Keep it up!

Nice work!