Chopper

Can you remind me where you put the magnet on your holdout blaster? Is it in the handle? I glued the holster magnet to the opposite side of the plastic. The side that's against the vinyl. If it's strong enough, it'll pull through the plastic.

Hi Cat, between the strapping and heat shaping, I think you'll find that the bicep and forearm armor should end up fitting reasonably ok. The biceps may be a bit too tall, but hold off on any trimming there until we get your shoulders set up. I do think you should start by taking off less from the shoulders than you have marked. I would start about where I've marked in green and see how it looks.

All in all, looks like a clean trim so far. Have you already taken a look at Kropserkel's build video yet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iIJxZhyfak

Hiya, there are a few vendors where you can purchase flak vests made to measure, specifically: Chef's Creations in the UK KriptonTop on Etsy (just make sure to select FedEx shipping) Steph's Imperial Outfitters on Facebook, though I believe she only does them in runs Chrisx909x on these forums Hope that helps!

Sure, this is how I rigged mine up. Because the elastic width is too small to really hold a significant amount of velcro, I put larger velcro tabs on each end. You can't see them when they're attached, as long as the elastic is measured about right. This isn't the only way to do it, but it's an option if it works for you.

For me, I went for full adjustability with velcro on both sides of the strapping. If you're feeling confident, you could use velcro on one side of the elastic and glue the other. You can see my rigging here: My shoulder bridge covers are also affixed with velcro, which you can see here:

Nice work, Ty. Don't forget to request Pathfinder access here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/162-access-requests/

Looks pretty great overall. Awesome job.

Ah ok, you've already submitted to UKG and are waiting to hear back on basic clearance. Once you're cleared for basic, you can apply for Lancer status via this subforum: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/51-lancer-deployment-request/ You can also look at some of the prior approved Lancer requests to get an idea of what's involved. Lancer application instructions are here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20150-lancer-deployment-request-rev-2020/

Hi Dave, would it be possible to link your images on a hosting site like imgur or dropbox? The small size of your thumbnails makes it somewhat harder for us to see the details of your build. Just to clarify -- have you already submitted for basic clearance? Or are you checking with us to see if anything else is recommended for basic clearance with the intent of Lancer after basic approval? Either is not a problem, but I wanted to know where you were coming from.

In terms of your armor, you're not the first to fit a SC kit to a smaller body size. With some trimming and heat shaping, Jen0fArc was able to make her scout kit fit her pretty well -- and she had the exact same SC kit that you have right now. It's definitely doable, but you will need to put a bit of work into molding it to fit your frame. I suggest you take a close look at this thread to see how Jen0fArc went through her build: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17873-jens-lady-scout-build/

Congrats dude!

Congrats Jill. Great job!

You should have enough of a divot to drill into where the little bar piece popped off the rivet when you installed it. Aim for that part and don't drill at high speed until the bit has a chance to bite.

Do you know if you used steel rivets (you can test it with a magnet) vs aluminum rivets? If you used aluminum rivets, it's not too bad if you can get a 1/8" cobalt steel bit from the hardware store. Just try and make sure the rivet doesn't start spinning while you drill it -- that's primarily when it starts to melt the plastic. Go slow and the bits should come out ok. If you used steel rivets, you can still drill them out with a cobalt bit, but you'll need to go a lot slower and it'll take somewhat longer to get it out.

That is a common weak point on the scout belt. I see that you used a backing plate, which is good, but the webbing itself has teared around the rivet puncture hole. What you need to do is find a way to take the stress off of the single rivet point. The fabric looks pretty compromised in the photos, so you may need to replace the webbing. Before you do all that, do you have enough slack in the webbing to punch a new hole further to the right and still have the belt fit ok? I'd try punching a new hole, then wicking the hole a bit with a lighter so the material can melt slightly. This would prevent the webbing from fraying, which I'm guessing is what caused the tearing before. If you don't have enough room, you could machine stitch another piece of webbing onto the inside portion and then punch the hole again + some flame wicking. As long as the patch is concealed on the inside, then it should be ok. For the future, you might also want to put some E6000 underneath which, again, should alleviate some of the stress on the rivet and fabric.

The screen used soft goods had some light weathering from rattle cans or an airbrush. If you have an airbrush, it'll give you better control, but you can get the same effect from a spray paint can. You just have to be careful and conservative. It helps to do some practicing for the proper effect first on some scrap plastic for the armor or scrap fabric for the soft goods.

Oh nice. Looks like those boots are made with the real sierra sneakers?

Some people paint the inside black, but there's no requirement to do so. The interior of the original helmets in ROTJ weren't painted black -- they just put some black gaffers tape near the inside of the ear holes.

Hey Cheese, yeah you've already picked up the primary items. For basic clearance, the only items that are really an issue are the belt and bund fitment. Your bund looks high and your belt looks low. Fix that up and you should be good to go for basic.

Sounds good, bud. We'll be here for your pre-submission feedback when you're ready to go tomorrow.

I'd get some thin gauge wire from the hardware store and twist the ends back into the holes.

Ah ok, I recall someone had set of coveralls once that had a brass button on the collar, which is why I asked. If your balaclava is long enough to cover it, then it's no big deal.

These are from the sandy side of things, but because the CRL image is a bit small, here are some close ups of where the wire was present on the regular DLT-19. I can see them in the 19X CRL photo, if you know what to look for, but I'll admit that it is a small detail that's easily missed.

Looks pretty alright, dude! If you really want to lock it in, I would trim maybe a half inch from each side, and about an inch from the bottom.