Chopper

If it fits then the package should be a-ok for basic clearance. At Level 2, there'd be more to look at, potentially, but if you're just interested in basic clearance you should be fine.

In terms of the armor and goods themselves, there should be no issues with the RS kit for basic approval. That said, nothing is approved out of the box -- it will entirely depend on how well it fits you. Additional tailoring or trimming may be needed to suit your specific body type.

Hey, I don't really see a lot that you haven't already identified -- Your shoulder bells are shifting back a bit, likely b/c your chest and back armor are shifted back as well. I can't make out your butt flap very well in the overall back photo. From the half photo, it looks a little wide/long, but hold off on any corrections for now. There's something under your mandarin collar -- is that a brass button, or the zipper peeking out? Nice work, overall.

Yeah, that's tough. Having all the load bearing on that single rivet has been a common stress point for the costume. Do you have enough slack in the webbing to punch a new hole further to the left and still have the belt fit ok? I'd try punching a new hole, then wicking the hole a bit with a lighter so the material can melt slightly. If you don't have enough room, you could machine stitch another piece of webbing onto the inside portion and then punch the hole again + some flame wicking. As long as the patch is concealed on the inside, then it should be ok. With the webbing ends as short as they are, I think you might also want to put some E6000 underneath which, again, should alleviate some of the stress on the rivet and fabric.

I'd email Jeff at SC first, show him a photo, and see if he'll send you a replacement L or R greeb.

I don't see anything offhand. The bottom of the flak vest seems longer than most, but as long as it's fully covered by your bund, then that's a non=issue.

Please do post a comparison of the two 3D printed helmets. You can add it to the existing thread here: Yeah, it's funny how all of your careful weathering washes away when it's photographed? Happens to me every time. What you've got looks good. Gloss paint is a fickle beast. I've battled the dreaded crackles many, many times myself. Sometimes it goes well. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it helps to do a light wet sanding of 800 grit between layers. I wouldn't recommend using the montana gold gloss on a scout. Because it's acrylic it never really binds to anything. As time goes on you're going to get a bunch of paint chips and the like a lot faster than with enamel of lacquer paints from a rattlecan. That look is fine for the Shoretrooper b/c they really used the Montana Gold Paint. On a ROTJ biker scout? It just wouldn't look right.

If you're looking for Level 2, as per the CRL: "Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of white cotton webbing or elastic. Covers are between .5 inch and 1 inch wide."

Hey Cheese, if you look at Strider's post from 11 May 17 in the link below, it should give you a decent technique for rattle can weathering. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/page/2/ You can clear level 2 with or without weathering -- up to you. Our DL, Mickey, has a clean kit. I weathered mine. The main thing to keep in mind with weathering is to keep it subtle, like in rotj, less is more.

When I make ABS paste, I usually cut the scraps up pretty small, put it into a baby food jar, and then add some acetone once I've accumulated a decent amount of scrap. Acetone evaporates pretty rapidly, so if you add too much, you can always add a little bit more abs scrap, or let some of the acetone evaporate. Once sealed, I usually let the acetone dissolve the scrap for an hour or two, only opening the jar to mix it a bit. And even once the paste in the jar started to harden a bit, you can always add a bit more acetone to get it back to a decent viscosity again. I typically wait a day before sanding, depending on how thick you've laid it down. It's more difficult to sand if it's only half dried, so I tend to wait until I'm certain that everything is solidified.

For those soles, you should not need to paint them.

So far I think everything looks pretty good. You're right to leave the butt flap until you've got your belt sorted. No reason to rush that part.

Hey Kevin and welcome to the Pathfinders. I took a look at the photos in your link. Great progress on the assembly so far! I wanted to point out a few items from your photos that, if you're looking for 501st approval, should get addressed for approval. I highlighted the items I noticed in green. Remember -- always check what you're doing against the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper On the snout, I think you could easily clean up some of those jagged edges with a toothpick dipped in 90% rubbing alcohol. With the sides of the helmet, you ideally want the upper visor to align with the lower face plate. I think part of the issue is that you haven't cut enough on the top part of the visor, which prevents it from sliding back further. I've marked an approximate trim line, but take it SLOW and only cut a little at a time. With some adjustments, you should be able to get the upper and lower faceplate to align better. It also looks like you still have the black stickers on the helmet ears? Those will need to get cut out, as per the CRL. That said, if you trace around the sticker in pencil, that should give you a pretty good idea of where to cut. You can verify how it looks with us first, but once you're ready you can use a small drill bit to make holes around the inside edge of where you want to cut. Then you can punch the plastic out and smooth the edges with a dremel/file. The trapezoid at the center of your tank is far too big. It should be approximately the same height as the rank stripe, just trapezoidal in shape. For your tank topper -- don't forget to paint the circular divot white. On your knee armor, the rivets look to be too high on the sides. I've marked in orange about where they should go. If you saved your armor trimmings, you can make something called abs paste (also called abs slurry), which you can use to fill in any errant holes in the armor. You can read more about it here: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-make-abs-juice-glue-and-slurry I noticed that you used some white zip ties on your detonator tubing. You can remove them as they're not called for in the CRL. For your belt, it looks like you used two rivets on each side to secure the webbing portion. You'll need to drill those out and replace them with a single rivet on each side. If you can get a 1/8" cobalt drill bit and you used aluminum rivets, then you should be able to drill them out pretty easy. If you used steel rivets, you can still get them out, but you'll need to go slower, as the steel can heat up and melt the plastic. Once you get the rivets out, you can use the abs slurry to fill in the holes, then sand the surface smooth. I know this probably seems like a lot, but it's all achievable with some elbow grease. We've all been where you are when we started, so please reach out if you need any help. And remember -- when in doubt, check the CRL!

Congrats Jeremy, great job.

Yes, I agree with @Retrofire. If you look at your side photo, Phil, the bund is almost under the chest and back armor. If you were to move it up to about where the top of your side strap is, then it'd be much better positioned. Otherwise, yeah, I think you're nearly ready to go.

Phil, have you tried putting some velcro on the bottom of your flak vest, and the top part of your bund? A lot of folks do that to help keep their bund from slipping down. The 1" measurement for the drop boxes is only an approximate measurement for Level 2 and isn't required for basic clearance. Omaha Joe is on track with his advice, can you give that a try? Also, you don't have any side shots, but from the front/back, it looks like your boxes are shifted forward a bit as well.

If this is your first legion costume, I think my GML had me do the legion application first. Each GML might have a different preference though for their workflow, so I'd just ask them what they'd prefer.

Hey Jeremy, I only have one thing to add... You look great. You should send in your application! 😀

The specific guidelines for the tank stripes are primarily under the level 2 part of the CRL, namely that it uses 1/8" pinstripes. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper Harbinger did some pretty decent measurements on positioning and placement in his build thread here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21344-harbinger’s-tb-wip/&tab=comments#comment-195973 Note that his measurements aren't a part of the crl standard, but they are a pretty good guide.

Thanks @Retrofire, yeah I agree that the gap shouldn't make a difference for basic clearance. I think for Level 2, if you're interested in going that way, then it'd come down to how obvious it is when you're wearing it with your cod and other soft parts in place.

A specific kit maker is not required for approval in the Mandalorian Scout. You can absolutely use a Chef kit if you'd like.

Hi Michelle. Nice to see your progress on the helmet. Since you mentioned you're going for Legion approval, one thing to note with regard to some of the 3D printed scout helmet models is that the upper snout hole and any holes on the back trapezoids should be filled in. From the CRL: "Helmet details created with decals on the originals may not be substituted with actual cutouts, i.e. above the snout area or the trapezoids in the back. If these areas are cut out on the helmet, they must be filled and covered with a decal" We're here to help you get approved and look your best, so please let us know if we can help, or if you have any questions!

That stuff on etsy looks really thin, like acetate film? The hobart shield is pretty flexible -- you can bend it fairly easily with your hands and I've cut them using lexan scissors. It does take a bit to heat it enough to remain bent using a heat gun, but that's also b/c it's a welding shield, so it's sorta doing it job by not deforming too quickly.

"Pathfinders: Keeping Hobart Face Shields in demand since 1983" 😁

Armour Factory looks exactly like a Mon Cal/Far Away Creations kit. Either they're not selling what's depicted, or they're recasting Cal's work. Generally those are major warning signs, so I'd stay away. I can recall one person who used the MoivieFX kit and got it up to Lancer/Level 2 standards, though it did take some additional work to do so. I can't speak to them as a vendor though, since they haven't come up very often. For armor, I would use the vendor list here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/ If you'd like to see what some of the vendor kits look like, go here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/&tab=comments#comment-159857 Let us know if you have further questions!