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Chopper

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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. Hey Catherine, because the Mando Scout undersuit uses a Tie Pilot flight suit, any pockets not mentioned in the Mando Scout CRL, or not covered by armor/bund, should be removed. In other words, yes, I believe those pockets should be removed from the RedKap coveralls.
  2. Hi Joe and thank you again for your application. The Lancer review team has looked at your application and we have the following comments: Shoulder Armor Your shoulder armor is sitting unevenly, giving the appearance of shoulder bells that are higher than 1.5" from the flak vest sleeve from the front. It looks like your bells are attached slightly rear of center? Is it possible to adjust them with your current set up? Cummerbund Your bund appears to be tucked into belt in the front and back. When fitted properly, the bund should sit just on top of the belt. Some general notes for your benefit, but no corrections needed for this review: Your detonator end caps look very deep. If you ever need to replace your caps or detonator tubing, you might want to go with something a bit shallower. You might want to consider adding some velcro to your biceps to help keep them affixed in place. Not a lot overall, just some minor fixes. Great work overall with your build! Let us know if you have any questions or need any clarification.
  3. The elastic strap is optional. However the CRL states that a "rivet" is used for Level 2. "Tank has a single silver colored 1/8th (3mm) rivet placed in the bottom center of the tank."
  4. There aren't a ton of WTF build threads with lots of photos out there. However, for guidance I would take a look at Jason's (RIP) build thread here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19025-wtf-armor-build/ I would also look at these other non-WTF threads for additional info: Strider's Lancer build thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17305-lancer-build-tutorial/ Panda's build thread (note this one is older, so the images are good, but some aspects pre-date the most current CRL): http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/9781-pandatroopers-sc-biker-scout-build/&tab=comments#comment-81496 And make sure to keep an eye on the CRL to make sure whatever you're doing complies with what's written: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper You can also use photos from the CRL to help just fit and proportions. Feel free to ask us if you have any questions.
  5. We're always happy to help however we can via photos and advice. However, if you're looking for physical help, maybe @ForesterDesign can help point you towards someone in your area that can be of assistance? If you haven't already, I recommend that you register on the Great Lakes Garrison Forums, as that may help get you in touch with someone local as well: https://www.greatlakesgarrison.com/forum/
  6. I would stick with the colormaxx paint over the self etching primer.
  7. A lot of folks use the dimensions on this old set of screen used helmet photos for their helmet dimensions. Helmet measurements can vary, based on the maker's helmet used, but the Lonewolf should be *reasonably* close to the original dimensions. I just checked my RS helmet and the space is also about 35mm, so I think you're in the proper ballpark. Yes, follow that line for the faceplate. Excellent progress so far. Nice work!
  8. Congrats. It's a great feeling when everything shows up. We're here if you need anything.
  9. I have one that I got at ace hardware a while back. I don't think the brand is super important, moreso that it has "low" heat setting. Otherwise you'll end up melting your boots and vinyl. And to be honest, you can totally complete a boot build just using a standard hair dryer, so buying a heat gun might be overkill.
  10. Yeah and the underlying tread spacing is another reason that, for Level 2, we are only looking for boot cuts that are "generally close" to the sierra sneakers vs asking for an exact replica of the sole pattern. If you can pull it off, great! If not, don't stress about trying for an exact match. I suggest you take a look at the various Lancer applications from 2020 or 2019 to get a sense of what's expected for boots (and everything else): http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/51-lancer-deployment-request/ One final tip -- the cuts in the sole really don't need to be all that deep -- for the most part you're taking about 1/8" of so. If you have a chisel blade for your exacto knife, that can help a great deal.
  11. Hello Jeremy and welcome! I think your boots will be fine for basic clearance. If you're interested in Level 2, then I am a little concerned about the boot cuts around the toe area -- from the angle in the photos, it looks like they're quite deep and there's not much tread underneath the cuts? Do you have additional photos? Really, all we're primarily looking for with level 2 is that the vertical cuts look generally right and that they're done neatly. We know the Sierra sneaker doesn't exist anymore, so an exact copy of the pattern with all the horizontal indents and such isn't necessary. Again, for basic clearance the cuts shouldn't be an issue. Please keep sharing your build as it progresses. One other thing to note -- the NegativeEleven holdout blaster is about 10% bigger than the standard blaster. If you're a bigger person, then it should scale ok in terms of size, but keep in mind that it was originally based off of the Kenner Blaster from the 80s. The SC holster is larger than usual, so it should fit ok.
  12. The original helmet wasn't perfectly symmetrical, so you shouldn't need to force it to be. Finding the proper cut line is the toughest part of this helmet. The first thing to do is to try to get the L/R visor parts lined up with the dome portion of the helmet. I think your top cuts, above the cheeks, look ok. I would be very conservative with cutting the lower angle. You just have to do a little bit at a time, while rough fitting the face plate against the dome and visor halves. Remember also that the side seams for the closure don't need to be absolutely perfect -- there's plenty of screen caps where the faceplate wasn't "perfectly sealed" against the dome portion of the helmet.
  13. You could either cut the elastic in the back of of the coveralls, which would mean there might be some fabric slack, or you could sew the butt flap above where the elastic "scrunches". It's covered by the bund and belt, so you're not meant to see the top stitch line of the flap. In terms of preventing fraying, it depends what the faux suede is made from, but you may be able to sear the edge with a quick pass with a flame. Obviously test it first!
  14. Hey there, welcome! Judging by your inverted knees, are you going for a Mandalorian Scout, or a ROTJ scout? Even though that's an older kit, for basic clearance, the hard parts of your armor should mostly be OK. You may want to replace the holster, as well as the cod/bund/pouches. Let us know if we can help in any way as your work towards approval.
  15. RS is indeed the best scout helmet you can get. Let me ask this though -- is there a reason you're going with a diff vendor for the rest of the armor? There are a lot of good vendors, don't get me wrong, but if it's a matter of cost, fit, or vendor location, then that might help guide our answers for you. Would a RS + SC combo be approvable? Yes indeed. Sometimes though, different vendors use different shades of ABS, vs paints, which can lead to a bit of a mismatch between the helmet and the armor -- that can sometimes be more or less of an issue, depending.
  16. The armory team gave the new 850 helmet a look when they posted it on facebook. The main issue is the ridge that surrounds the eye slot. Our DL, Mickey, is working with 850 to fix some of the issues in order to make it approvable.
  17. On the original helmets there were two slits cut into the sides and then the elastic was glued to fit -- you can see it in the photos below. Other folks have attached the elastic to the inside of the rotator bolts, or to their hardhat headband.
  18. It's hard to see in the small photo they have posted, but if you remove the zippers and pockets and alter the collar, then then it would be fine on the biker scout side. Now, I know you're working on a shadow scout, and I'm no expert on that CRL, but you might also consider a 2 piece suit, as that should be an option as well -- both for the biker scout and shadow scout.
  19. @Jennk182, do you or other folks in the Recon Fatale crew have some suggestions?
  20. You might want to look at these -- Dickies has a line of women's coveralls. I am not sure how well they fit in real life, but they do have a size XS available. https://www.dickies.com/coveralls-overalls/womens-long-sleeve-cotton-coveralls/FV483.html
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