Chopper

Since you're in the UK, you could reach out to either Cast From Original (Cf0) or Chef's Creations for spare parts. Who made your current armor?

The webbing on top looks white enough, yes.

Thank you for your application, DJ. The team will take a look and get back to you soon.

Thanks for the vendor review, Sean. Those look like nice boots. The only item I can see is that in images 1-4 he uses a two-toned sole, which would need to be painted a "wheat color" for Level 2/Lancer. Photos 9 and 10 in the shop look like he's using a single color sole. Do you mind me asking which variety you got with your order?

Nice. Great job to all those who contributed, or were involved.

Hello! Thank you again for your patience. The Lancer Review team has gone over your application and we have the following comments for you to address: Flight Suit The butt flap on the back side of your flight suit appears long. You will need to trim it vertically about 1.5" to 2" Your thigh straps are positioned low. They should ideally be about at the halfway point of your legs. Estimate that they should come up about 2". See photo. Also, when you move your thigh straps, they will need to be more snug against your leg. As is they are too loose. The legs of your flight suit appear to be baggy. However, we would like to see how it looks once you've moved the thigh straps up and made them more snug, before we get into additional tailoring. Shoulder Armor Your right shoulder should come in a bit to match the left. This may just be a dressing issues as the positioning looks about right from the back side. Belt and Detonator Please center your drop box strap clips on the webbing, particularly on the rear side. Knee Armor The lower elastic for your knee armor looks to be 1" in width. According to the CRL it should be either 1/2" or 3/4". Cod Dressing issue -- Your cod isn't laying flat and looks slightly angled to your left. If you raise it slightly it should help a bit with getting it to lie flat on the front of your body. Bund The bund should ideally sit on the top of your belt and should not be tucked into your belt. If you're not able to raise the bund up, so it's sitting on top of the belt, then you may need to do some tailoring to re-size the vertical height of the bund. Helmet Can you please provide a top down shot of your helmet? The SC helmet features a two-piece "back and cap" construction, which is fine for Level 2, but the seams will need to be filled. Also, the return edge on the top of your visor appears uneven. Please trim the upper visor return edge on the your right to match the left. I've marked the section we're referring to, as well as the suggested trim. See photo. Bicep Armor Again, this is just a dressing issue, but please rotate your bicep armor so that they're facing outwards at a 90 degree position on each arm. They look like they're in the right place in some of the photos, so they may just be moving around a bit. You may want to look at using velcro to keep them in position, if you haven't already. Overall, a very good job on your application! With the exception of the visor trimming, most of these items are dressing issues and some tailoring adjustments, so hopefully it will not cause you too much trouble. Please let us know if you have any questions, or if you need any guidance on putting the adjustments in place.

Hello and thank you for your Lancer submission. The team will get back to you shortly. One thing we ask -- could you please change the permissions settings for access to images on your flickr page? It asks for a login to view the full resolution photos via the links. Thank you.

Jeff has been a longstanding supplier to the Pathfinders community and his armor is probably the most common type you'll find in the states. And there's a reason for that! He does a great job with his goods and he has great customer service.

Looks great. The only other suggestion I would make is to put a folded up sweatshirt or something not too bulky in the bag to slightly pad it out a bit.

This is basically what you're looking for. Should be more than enough material. Link

Hey dude, you want to get the black pig suede for your riding patches and butt flap. There are usually scraps available on eBay. Let me find a link for you.

I think gun metal gray would be too light. This is a photo from the screen used DLT20A in ESB: If you look at the hues in the rifle's color, it appears that the color is black, but but with some significant weathering and bluing effects.

There's no specific distance prescribed for Level 2, but as Dennis said , the crl photo is your best guideline. There is some wiggle room though. The knee armor should generally fit over your kneecap and should not touch the top of the boot vinyl or go inside your boot. There should be some space in between the knee armor and vinyl, which would be around 1sh to 2ish+ inches. There is some leeway, but the fit should be in the ballpark.

Excellent work, Eric.

The curve on the bottom of your cod looks a little flat for Level 2, but I wouldn't go changing anything until you get fully suited up. The bund also looks a little bit long, but again, it's easier to tell these things once the armor goes on with the soft goods. When you suit up, you'll also want to check your knee armor position in relation to your boot tops.

Yes, Chef's boots should be a-ok for Level 2.

Spike won't let you down. Welcome back dude!

Yikes! Well, you've just experienced the dreaded paint crackles. It can happen for a few reasons, such as laying on the paint too thick in one spot, not letting any underlying layers dry, or reactions with any paint layers or primer underneath. Sometimes it can happen if the paint isn't fully mixed and there's an imbalance with the paint and solvent. On the last scout helmet that I painted I had a lot of issues with crackles -- especially in the area you did, as well as on the bottom of the back of the helmet. Spray paint can be super finicky. It's supposed to more be convenient, right? With where you are now, go ahead and sand down the abs paste once it's cured. Once everything is smooth again, I'd hit that area with some flat white primer first. Sand that with high grit sandpaper, then you can go over it with gloss. I've found that gloss paints tend to have a greater tendency towards crackling. I've also found that in instances where I'm getting crackles in one spot, throwing down a layer of primer after sanding tended to avoid the crackles once I did a gloss coat. Let us know how it goes and we'll advise as best we can.

No way dude, you'd be right at home. The 501st Pathfinders Detachment welcomes Scouts of all sizes! 😁

Obviously, for non-501st troops at cons and such, you can do what you'd like. For any 501st-sponsored troops, it'd be up to your local garrison as to whether or not they'd let you troop in it. At this time though, it's not in the CRL, so it wouldn't be worn for basic or lancer approval.

Check with @spike on these forums. He makes the "Altmann" armor, which is well suited for larger folks. WTF runs larger as well, but unless you're planning on doing a Mandalorian Scout (CRL forthcoming), I'd say that the Altmann armor is the more accurate of the two for a ROTJ scout.

For some additional context -- The neck seal shows up in the speeder bike chase scene in ROTJ, which was filmed on a blue screen. It's also shown up in some of the costume photos, such as the photos that came included with the dvd releases some years ago, as well as the photo from the Star Wars Costumes book (which is the photo you've referenced). The scout costume described in the CRL tries to prescribe what a majority of the scouts looked like in ROTJ. There are always exceptions, such as the rubber stunt helmets, the scout with no stripes on his tank, etc. Because the neck seal was not included on most of the scouts in ROTJ, the Pathfinders Detachment does not include the neck seal as a part of the CRL.

Great work, Dennis!

That's a real nice job on the weathering, dude. Great work.

James, something else I noticed as I was looking at your pouches -- it looks like you trimmed the bottom left edge of your chest armor but not the right? They should both be trimmed, as you did with the left-side edge. You can try better aligning your pouches by rotating the bottoms of the pouches both outward a bit. That might make them align more horizontally. If they;re jutting out, you could also try hand sewing some velcro to hold them to your bund. How rigid is the filling you used in the pouches? Sometimes that can cause them to jut out at odd angles.