Chopper

What maker scout kit would it be for? Not all scout kits are sized the same and some greeblies don't fit.

Again, don't feel bad. Sewing the riding patches was probably the most difficult part of my scout build. So many broken sewing machine needles...

Based on what you've shown above, in the first photo, your tank topper placement and size should not be an issue for Lancer.

The size of the tank topper would only be an issue for a Level 2 review if it was clearly out of proportion with the top of the tank -- we're talking obviously oversized, or undersized. In the instance above, I think it's fine.

This photo is of one of the production suits from the Magic of the Myth exhibit. I would go with option 1.

Understandable and not unexpected. Hopefully I'll get to meet many of you in 2022.

You're in good company then, most of us were in the same boat when we started as well. I did a slightly tapered straight line seam. I opened the whole leg when I did it, just so it'd be easier to move the sewing machine around. Figure out how you want to place the patches before you open up the legs. Once you open them up, it's still possible, but much more difficult.

Thank you for your application, Stephen. The Lancer Review Team has had a chance to review your submission and we have the following comments: First off, it would be greatly appreciated if you could please link to the higher reference photos for your application? It's very difficult for us to see a lot of the details in your app with such small images. For a Lancer review the key is in the details! Anyhow, here we go: Helmet: -The seam-joins on the helmet are uneven and will need to be re-sanded and cleaned up for Lancer. We’ve marked the areas that need attention in the photos below. -The decal that sits above the snout is misplaced. It should be mounted higher, on the flat/vertical area just underneath the visor. Please see reference photos below for proper positioning. -The visor appears to be green in color, the CRL specifically calls for "black in color". It will need to be replaced. CRL Level 1: “Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes” -Your chin cup is threaded incorrectly. Please see reference photo below for proper threading, -Also, can you please provide a close up photo of your chin cup? We are uncertain what the two white pieces are? See marked photo below. Flight Suit: -We are unable to see the butt flap on your coveralls, due to the small size of the images. Please provide linked higher resolution photos for our review. Shoulder Armor: -As a fitment issue, your shoulder armor is pushed back and uneven. Your left shoulder is pushed back further than the right. Both shoulder armor parts should be centered on your shoulders. Upper Arm Armor: -T-Bit greeblies are either poorly cast or have glue residue on them? Can you provide clearer photos with better lighting? If the issue is the casts of the greeblies, then they will need to be replaced. Otherwise, they'll need to be cleaned up. Reference CRL Level 2: “Film-accurate ‘T-bit’ detail is mounted to armor.” -The bicep armor, particularly the side portions, are not accurate to the screen used armor, you will need to consider modifying or replacing them. Please see reference photos below. -As a fitment issue, your bicep armor should come up about 1". Forearm Armor: -As a fitment issue, please rotate forearm armor forward. You want your biceps to be at 90 degree positions on each side, with the forearms at about 45 degrees on each side. See the CRL photo for reference on ideal positioning. Back Armor: -Your tank topper is too large for your tank. You will need to either purchase a smaller-sized tank topper, or get one 3D Printed in a more appropriately scaled size. CRL Level 2: “Tank has screen-accurate greeblie tank topper detail.” -Can you please clarify, are those molding imperfections on the back lower left of your tank? If those are mold imperfections, then they will need to be sanded and cleaned up. You may be able to fill and sand them with ABS paste, but it’s hard to tell from the size of the photos. Cummerbund: -As a fitment issue, please pull your bund up about 1.5 to 2 inches, so it's not falling under the side straps. Velcro on your flak vest may help keep your bund up. Belt and Detonator: -As a fitment issue, you belt is too low and is drooping in the back. It should come up about 1.5 to 2" along with your bund. -Your drop boxes are too high. They should hang about 1 " from the belt. CRL Level 2: “Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt.” -On your detonator box, you should trim the return edge off of the circular indent where the det tubing is placed inside the detonator box. Please see reference photo below. Boots: -We noticed that you're using the Imperial Boots brand scout boots. Compared with the ideal proportions, as shown in the CRL image, your boots are about 2" too short, based on the positioning of your knee armor. -The boots also use a two-tone sole, which will need to be painted a single "wheat" color. Reference CRL Level 2: “The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching.” -Boots are also missing the slots cut into the heels and toes as per the CRL. Reference CRL Level 2: “The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen in the film.” Holster: -The boot holster assembly is not accurate to screen example. You will need to either fix how the scope holder mounts to the back portion, or replace the holster entirely with a more accurate version. Please see reference photos below. -The screen used holsters only had 5 cut outs, so the extra cut-out will need to be filled in with ABS paste and sanded flush. -The rivets used to mount the holster are quite large. We recommend using 1/8" rivets for all rivets used on the scout armor. Blaster: -Please provide close up photos of the blaster, to include barrel and scope front and back. Gloves: -Trim the attachment clips off of the gloves. Listen, we recognize that this is a lot to take in. Some of the issues come from the WTF armor , which, due to some of the inaccuracies, can be challenging to clear for Lancer. Take your time reading it over, and by all means, please let us know if you have questions, need clarification, or want additional guidance.

The most common way is actually to seam rip the outside of the coverall legs open. It's not too hard to get them back together -- generally you have to bring the legs in a bit anyhow, so they fit the leg better. You can also take care of that when you stitch them back together again. What part are you concerned about in terms of sewing the legs back together again?

I've also had this issue when I didn't properly lock the stitch when I started sewing. It seems to be especially a problem with thicker materials like velcro.

I'm sure 3M tape is fine for a temporary fix, but I prefer something a little more durable than just adhesive to hold my helmet together. Of the two adhesives I mentioned, I would've thought that most hardware stores in Canada would have ABS cement in the plumbing section? If not, I apologize. Oatey is the brand that's commonly used in the US. Not sure what's typical in Canada though.

You can order the bolts here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/10270-fs-accurate-tb-helmet-hardware-kit-headband-kit/ I wouldn't use the 3M tape. I wouldn't use E6000 either -- I'd use either Devcon plastic weld, or ABS cement for your gluing. As you said, get everything set up with magnets + tape first, then glue, b/c it's not going anywhere after that stuff dries!

Yep, that'll do it. Even clear coats from the same brand can cause issues if it gets layered on too much, or the undercoat isn't fully and totally cured -- and I'm talking like a week's worth of curing, not dry to touch.

Hi Mark, Retrofire and I spoke and we think that you should try adding some velcro under the shoulder portions of the collar edges of your vest. That will hopefully hold the collar down. Worth giving it a try first, rather than fully deconstructing your vest. Let us know how it goes, as well as how the sleeve hemming goes as well. We're here if you have further questions.

Hi Diego, your placement looks good. I think those rivet endcaps looks a little large, but should be ok for basic clearance. Also please note that, while blasters are optional for basic approval, the Kenner blaster would need to be modified to remove the trigger and be painted black should you choose to include it.

Thank you for your application, Stephen. The team is reviewing your photos and will get back to you soon.

Congratulations!

Hah, I laughed out loud when you got to the "congratulations, you have survived the apocalypse" line.

Oh, I haven't seen Steph's tutorial but yes, that dog bone looks to be upside down -- at least I would consider it to be upside down for the ROTJ version. Since you're working on the mandalorian scout and we don't have a full CRL yet, let's see if we can get some better close photos of the boots used in the show to sort it out.

Congrats Pete! 😉

Hey Diego, Level 1 of the CRL specifically says "rivets", so yes, rivets are required at even the basic clearance level. "Attached to the outside of the right boot with rivets." https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

Hi Frederick, there should be no black or grey decals on the snout. The snout recess is painted black. The snout greeblie is painted grey.

Overall though, you look pretty good. I think you've covered the areas you need to refine. Keep us updated.

Hey dude, A properly constructed KS helmet is absolutely approvable. You can see a build tutorial on youtube in the link below. The only items I would change from the build video is to not use stickers for the snout details, glue the helmet parts together instead of using 3M tape, and use the proper 3M bolts to secure the visor to the dome, instead of rivets.

Hey Jonny, This particular helmet really toes the line on the "Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet" portion of the CRL. I've already said it in several other threads -- there are better helmets out there for your money. Aside from the overall shape and proportions being generally off, the connection between the side and the faceplate is non-existent and the visor guard surrounding the faceplate is just one massive chunk, as opposed to having a return edge. Outside of the RS/Strider/Cf0/Lonewolf helmets, which are either screen derived, or really really close, most of the helmets on our vendor list are somewhere between the 80-100% accuracy mark. I don't think this helmet makes the >80% cut, but, as I said, basic clearance is the GML call.