Chopper

If you're shooting for Level 2/Lancer then the thicker 1/4" horizontal rank bars are for the 4 stripe version, which is the scout that captures Leia. The other variants (1, 6) use the thinner 1/8" horizontal rank bars. The center bar in the middle of the pinstriping was on the 4 stripe version. See example below. If you're only going for basic clearance, then you can have between 0 to 6 stripes.

Just remember, the 19X has no bipod.

As I've discovered while working on my own ST Captain, this is why most people choose the squad leader...

That looks like one of Chef's older kits. He used to have indents moulded in for the rank and pinstriping, though I believe newer kits have been updated.

As stated the caption, that images is reversed, so it can cause some confusion. The "dot" on the detonator, should be on the right side, as per the CRL.

Pro tip -- if you can get a can of tamiya matte black spray paint, you'll be able to get a far better controlled spray effect than the krylon can.

Fullers earth is just a type of clay, so it's pretty common in everything from beauty products to cat litter. Honestly, it'd probably be easier to do some sponge weathering with burnt umber acrylic paint thinned with some water, but if you're looking to buy some fullers earth online, I'd try and find one with a red/brown color. You don't need a lot, so no need to get the 1 pound bag or anything like that.

Hey Dot, the image hosting isn't working for your last post.

Hey chief, great work and you look a ton better! The only final note I have is to try and center your buckles on the parachute straps and you should carefully cut the linking clips off of your gloves. Neither should prevent you from clearing basic though.

As a general guideline, I'd say that the butt flap should extend from just inside the edges of of where the plastic on the belt ends and the webbing begins -- maybe 1/2" to 1" inwards on each side. You can see it in the back side CRL photo below. There's some leeway, depending on body time and size, but you can start there and see how it looks. You can also take a template out of paper and give us a look to double check, before you cut and sew anything.

Just remember that the straps in the back meet towards the centerline of the back of the belt webbing, as per the reverse side CRL image below. Also, looks like your parachute clips are looped on the opposite side on both the front and back. The black portion of the clip should be visible when the belt is worn. Your shoulder bells actually look ok. The only issue is that your right one looks closer in than the left, so you should try and even them out. You should not totally close the gap between the shoulder bell and the bridge, so leave some gap visible. From your photos, your bicep armor can come down maybe an inch or so. It just be just slightly under the bottom edge of your flak vest, but we can make adjustments based on your specific body build. Dropboxes should be about centered on the sides of your thighs. It looks like yours are canted a bit forward. I think that'll get cleaned up if you align your drop straps in the back closer to the centerline of the back of the belt webbing though. You're getting there! Good work.

Most folks use either Rustoleum or Krylon gloss or semi-gloss white. On my helmet I used the rusto painters 2x touch white primer and then gloss white. It seems to work well with plastics. The primary thing to remember is to use a paint and primer from the same brand. Once you start mixing brands, you run the risk of the solvents attacking each other. If that happens and you get the dreaded crackles, all you can do is let it all dry, sand it back down, and start over.

For your reverse shot, I don't see anything else that's outstanding. Looks like we've covered most of it with your initial front side shot. Keep it up.

Hi Mark, Jason got a lot of I was about to mention -- In addition to bringing your vest sleeves up to about where I've marked on the attached image, you might also want to move your drop boxes back a bit, so they're resting more evenly on your sides. In the photo the appear to be forward a bit. This will also help them sit in a better position. Once your sleeves are moved up, you can bring your biceps up a bit as well. If you have additional elastic slack on the cod, loosen it up a bit, so you can avoid the cod crunchies. Good work dude.

Using smooth on would mean that it's rotocast resin, most likely. There are better and more accurate helmets available. I'd look at some of the other vendors listed here and in the ultimate armor comparison thread.

The way the faceplate connects to the sides of the dome portion, near the lower jaw is quite different from most of the other helmets out there, including the screen used ones. I haven't seen anyone do it like that before, especially with all the reference shots we have now. I also can't tell in the indents on the back right are actually intents, or just gray stickers placed on the surface. Same for the traps on the upper back. What is it made of? Fiberglass? Rotocast? 3D printed?

That's some good work on the cap and dome join. Great job.

It's hot glue, so you could carefully heat the inside a bit with a hair dryer. That might looser the glue enough to remove if it won't come off otherwise.

Love it. Great work James.

I glued a neodymium magnet on the inside of the plastic, but it's difficult to show without me removing my holster from my boot. You can get the general idea in pandatrooper's thread below. I didn't cut my magnets through the plastic though. I also recommend you hold off until you get your blaster before gluing anything as it'd be difficult to mount the magnets properly otherwise.

Yes indeed. The DVH blaster is almost exactly the same dimensions as the screen used pistol, so it would fit in all 3 holsters.

It will fit in the SC holster, yes. However, keep in mind that the SC holster is oversized when compared to the CFO/Strider; RS; Mon Cal holsters, so the magnets will be extra useful.

With the DVH there's also a magnet just under the barrel as well.

There are two different king show boots available. I believe the "KINGSHOW Men's 1366 Water Resistant Premium Work Boots" have the preferred wheat soles. The "Kingshow Men's 1801 Work Boots" are also available on Amazon, but they have a split colored sole.

Nice work. As you can see with the screen used boots, the dog bones don't touch all the way on the sides.