Chopper

Hey Diego, Level 1 of the CRL specifically says "rivets", so yes, rivets are required at even the basic clearance level. "Attached to the outside of the right boot with rivets." https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

Hi Frederick, there should be no black or grey decals on the snout. The snout recess is painted black. The snout greeblie is painted grey.

Overall though, you look pretty good. I think you've covered the areas you need to refine. Keep us updated.

Hey dude, A properly constructed KS helmet is absolutely approvable. You can see a build tutorial on youtube in the link below. The only items I would change from the build video is to not use stickers for the snout details, glue the helmet parts together instead of using 3M tape, and use the proper 3M bolts to secure the visor to the dome, instead of rivets.

Hey Jonny, This particular helmet really toes the line on the "Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet" portion of the CRL. I've already said it in several other threads -- there are better helmets out there for your money. Aside from the overall shape and proportions being generally off, the connection between the side and the faceplate is non-existent and the visor guard surrounding the faceplate is just one massive chunk, as opposed to having a return edge. Outside of the RS/Strider/Cf0/Lonewolf helmets, which are either screen derived, or really really close, most of the helmets on our vendor list are somewhere between the 80-100% accuracy mark. I don't think this helmet makes the >80% cut, but, as I said, basic clearance is the GML call.

Hey Ryi, the only thing I see that's still outstanding is your cod crunchies. I don't think it'll be an issue for basic clearance, but you might want to try moving your cod up a bit so it lies flatter on your body? The other option is putting some posterboard behind it, or something else to keep the bottom from crumpling.

Hey Sebastian, so the Armory team has taken a close look at the CyberCraft helmet and our consensus is that there are a number of inaccuracies. Because basic approval is up to your local garrison's GML, you'll need to get in contact with them to verify whether or not they'll accept it. As a detachment, if a trooper were to apply for Level 2 (Lancer) with that helmet, it would not be accepted. So, yeah. I'm sorry to give you some not so great news, but a lot will depend on what your GML says. I encourage you to reach out to the Florida Garrison's GML to see what they say.

Hi Fabio, what helmet were you using before? We've seen the Cybercraft helmet you linked, and while basic approval is up to your local GML, our view of it was that the helmet is highly inaccurate. There are better helmets available -- you should check out the helmets from (for example) Altmann, Studio Creations, RS Prop Masters, Kropserkel, Cast From Origina (CfO), many of which are in the thread below. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/17774-the-ultimate-armor-comparison-thread/&tab=comments#comment-159857 I'd you like our feedback on other potential helmets, please post away and we'll take a look.

Oh also, if your elastic is too short you can always find the spot where the elastic goes under the back of the bund, and then sew a bit more elastic onto the end. That should give you a bit more leeway, so you don't need to pull it so tight.

Yep, for basic clearance the CRL says the following about the rank bars: "Rank bars" present on the right side of the tank can number between 0 to 6 stripes.

Ah ok bud, up to you. Just wanted to check!

You weren't able to hem the sleeves on your existing vest?

Hey Mikey, I'd be happy to trade with you and I have a number of ART different patches. Shoot me a PM.

Congrats Scout!

Hey Ryi, just a few refinements for basic clearance -- The top edge of your belt should ideally be just under your bellybutton. Your bund might be a bit long, but try and pull it up a bit as well if you can. For basic you can put your belt over the bottom of your bund, if need be. Let that cod lay flat on the front of your body. Try not to let it crunch up like that. The bottom shouldn't be pulled through your legs -- leave it flat. I noticed you have only three stripes on your tank? That's ok for basic, but 1, 4, and 6 are the cannon arrangements. Up to you. Also, you can go ahead and cut the hook connectors on your gloves. Good work! You're really close!

There's no specific measurement for the rank bars and the center bar in the CRL, but they're about 38mm or approx 1.5". Drop boxes should be around 1.5" below the belt. Your left one looks ok, but the right seems to be drooping more. That might also be because your belt looks a little loose in back though. Watch the cod crunchies == try and flatten out your cod and don't pull the strap so tight. That'll keep it from crumpling.

Well, if it were me, I'd spray both the back and the faceplate just so they match. A few things could have happened with the less smooth part of the paint on your helmet -- 1) If it's an older can with less paint, then that can affect the consistency of the spray that comes out. Gloss white is also a tricky color to spray and the many angles and divots on the scout helmet makes it especially hard to make sure you've got an even coat overall. 2) How smooth was the primer layer underneath? Gloss paint reflect all imperfections, so if one part of the helmet was still a bit rough, then it'll pick it up 3) As you said, overspray can cause this effect too. Did you come back and spray only a portion of it later, after the rest had dried? 4) Humidity can do crazy things to spray paint. If it was especially humid that day, then the paint can start drying before it really gets a chance to even out on the helmet. I've painted a few scout helmets in my time and they're always a challenge to get perfectly right. I suggest you wet sand with 400 grit up to 800, clean it, then re-spray on a low humidity day. I also suggest you pick up a new can of paint and give that a try as well.

To clarify, the snout recess area should only be black. You can see how it should look in the photo below. The snout greeblie is attached to the snout recess and, with the exception of the mic tip, is painted gray. If you used Rusto flat grey, you could try cleaning it up with some 90% iso alcohol. I believe Rusto is a lacquer, so it really depends how thick it's on there and if it's cured or not. You may have to help it a bit with some wet sanding and 400 grit sandpaper. Fortunately, you're painting the whole recess anyway, so it'll get covered up. The black paint can be flat or satin. Don't use gloss. I used Rusto Flat Black Primer for mine and it worked well.

Good work sealing that gap!

This can happen if too much paint is caked on too quickly. Also if the paint is incompatible with the paint in the underlying layer. Removing the paint will depend on the type of paint that was used. What did you use? Acrylic? Lacquer? Enamel? What brand? I am a little confused -- are you painting the entire snout area grey? It should be black, with only the plate on the snout greeblie being grey.

You have two options. One is abs paste, which you can make from any scrap plastic left over from your helmet + acetone. The other is devcon. Which one to use comes down to personal preference and materials on hand.

I believe what you saw was in response to someone who had not yet purchased a helmet and was asking about different helmet vendors. Whether or not the helmet is approvable is a slightly different question and, as Stroker said, would come down to us seeing more photos of the product.

I would highly recommend against trying that method. As Mark mentioned: draw your outline in pencil, drill it out with a small bit, and then do some cleanup and refining with needle files.

I imagine that the original scout armor glued their elastic onto the armor -- that's what they did with the OT TKs. I used velcro, which was a bit more work, yes. However, it allows me to easily adjust the tightness of the strapping as well as allow for quick replacement of the elastic, if needed.

Thank you, Mark. It does appear that your tank topper is mounted at an angle, so we ask that you please align the back edge with the back of the tank.