Chopper

Great job!

Ok that type should be enamel. You should be able to clean it up with a thin, stiff paint brush, a q-tip, and some testors enamel paint thinner. I've also taken a wooden toothpick, dipped it in the thinner, and rubbed the excess paint off that way. The wood is generally soft enough to not damage the plastic. Be very careful and go slowly, but you should be able to work the edges to remove the drips.

What kind of paint did you use? Acrylic? Enamel?

Those should work just fine.

The SC holster is sized for the hyperfirm scout blaster, which is oversized, compared to the others out there. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18225-ultimate-scout-pistol-comparison-thread/ I use a darth voorhees (DVH) blaster with my SC kit, and using the integrated magnets, it holds in just fine.

There's also no bipod on the dlt19x DLT19 DLT19X

I stand corrected! Congrats @MrsPoopie!

There have been a number of folks start 3d printed scouts, though, at least as far as I've seen, I haven't seen one submit for approval yet. There's a lot more on the shoretrooper side of the house. As my colleagues said, if you're up for it, and it looks correct, then there's no reason you can't get approved in a self designed set of armor.

Congrats Chris!

It should be 1.5" cotton webbing for level 2, so that looks about right.

The boot on the right is the same type I used. Another thing ive found that really helps is to use a chisel-style xacto blade to cut the soles.

Assembly progress continues. Lots of snap gluing and elastic rigging. Also a lot of sanding and seam filling. SO MUCH SEAM FILLING. Here's what I see, so far -- Bring in the shoulder bells more. They're out too far and it's making me look like a tank. Slightly trim down the return edge on the bottom of the chest armor. I don't have a lot of leeway here, due to the collar size, but it's pushing off the center chest greeb a bit. Back plate needs to sit more flush against my back. This should be fixed once I put some velcro on the side connectors and I'll worry about that after painting. Also, yes one does look shorter than the other -- they're actually the same length! The back plate is sitting unevenly. Again, this will be fixed once the connections are rigged. Anything else I missed? Thanks everyone.

Love it

That fit looks great for both level 1 and 2 clearance.

No worries, Chris. Just for clarity, the circled green area was what I was looking at. If the top edge of the butt flap is attached below the belt and bund, (and it looks like there's a gap?) then it should be adjusted prior to sending photos to your gml.

Hey Chris, great work keeping on it! For level 1/basic clearance, the only thing that I really see is that the top edge of your suede butt flap appears to be attached below the bottom of your bund? It's always super hard to tell with black on black, but it looks that way in the rear photo? Can you confirm? As per the CRL: "A suede or faux suede butt flap attaches above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangular in shape."

Excellent! Welcome aboard!

Great work, Chris. Love the dog in the photo too, hah. I have three small suggestions for you -- 1) Raise your cod up, maybe an inch or an inch or two. By bringing it up, you'll get rid of the cod crunchie effect. You might also want to put some reinforcement material behind it, so it doesn't bunch up as much. 2) Your pouches are a bit close together. You might want to push them out, so that they sit approximately 1 inch from the outermost cummerbund rib on each side. 3) Your biceps are on backwards. The two "rivets" on the greeblie should face forwards. Just swap out your bicep armor and you should be ok. Easy stuff. Overall, good job dude!

That's not that bad. Is the gap area only on the top? Or is it on the curved front part too? If it's just the flat part on the top you can continue with the construction, even with the gap. Have you been saving your scrap trimmings? If so, you can make some abs paste once you end up joining the dome sections together using the flat plastic that came with the kit. The gap portion can then be filled with abs paste and then sanded smooth.

Overall shape is good. You could lower it a little bit more towards the bottoms, but not by much.

https://www.wampawear.com/product/biker-scout-gloves/

IB gloves are fine for clearance, but the Wampa Wear gloves are what most scouts use. Plus, being that you're in the US, you'll save on shipping using Wampa Wear too. The IB scout boots are ok for basic clearance, but need significant mods for lancer. They also come in a set height per size, so they may be too tall or too short depending on your build. Making your own boots is not too difficult and a good confidence booster. Use can use this guide: Off the top of my head, there's also a number of vendors who will make them for you. You'll need to talk with them about production times, prices, and availability. And https://www.facebook.com/groups/1517600621664236?id=1517600621664236&ref=content_filter&_rdr

I think you pretty much nailed it with your pencil marks. Good work.

The cuts look good from the side, dude. You should be all set.

If you look at this thread, it should show you how to rig up the zip ties for the shoulder bells .