Chopper

What vendor helmet are you working with? Some are better suited to the 3M hard hat liner than others.

Welcome!

I've seen many scouts add rigid material, such as cardboard or plastic to their pouches in order to give them a sharp rectangular shape. While there is nothing in the CRL that says you can't do it, and many have done so for Level 2 (Lancer), the pouches in the film had a fairly loose filling in them to bulk them out. I used a bit of cardboard, folded in a way that would allow my phone to fit in the pouch, then surrounded the outside of it with cotton batting. Either way works.

I went to the chicago celebration using a flight helmet bag and had no issues. With multiple airline travel trips though, I'd probably err on the side off a hard shell case.

That's correct, the suede is only sewn to the flight suit along the top edge, which is concealed under the belt/bund.

Not familiar with that seller. Also, hard to say for sure without measurements, but it looks a little small in the gloved hand photo. If the seller Is just printing the scout blaster model that's been floating around the net, then it's definitely undersized.

Stroker is right on. E6000, which is silicone based contact cement, will adhere the clear plastic disc to the blaster. Assuming your blaster is not rubber, you could also use canopy cement, which dries clear and is sold in model/hobby stores.

If you mean connecting the shoulder bell to the bridge with both a velcro strap between the two, as well as a zip tie, then no, that would not be allowed for level 2.

I've seen both and a lot of it depends on personal preference and bin storage space. My chest/back are attached on the underside with velcro. My shoulder bells are zip tied to my shoulder bridge covering straps and those close with velcro on the bottom side. I keep my armor assembled in the bin, but both thre chest/back, as well as the shoulder bells are attached with velcro, so disassembly is an option if needed.

I def love my strider helmet. The new version looks great.

Just some feedback, but I think your squared off portion marked at the top of your riding patch might still be too low. You don't want to squared portion to show under your codpiece/belt. You could also round the top edges of the front of the riding patch, as is in the CRL photo, and it'd be ok.

I used this vinyl for my boots: https://www.fabricguru.com/marine-vinyl/marine-grade-vinyl-outdoor-upholstery-fabric-white.html It's smooth and doesn't have much grain to it.

Thanks Mickey. Yeah I've definitely been using your build thread as a guide. I think I'm going to try to both dremel down that ridge a bit and also cut a notch in the strap. Hoping that'll get the buckle to sit a bit more flush with the armor.

Progress continues. I'm finishing up on gluing the bicep and forearm armor, which should be done shortly. Right now, I'm looking at how to mount the buckles and straps on the chest armor. I'm assuming this is the correct orientation for the strap, and the ramped portion goes into the slot on the back armor? I'm still uncertain how to mount the strap and buckle properly? The underside of the buckle has a ridge in the middle that gets in the way when trying to mount the two together in a flush manner. Am I supposed to trim part of the shoulder strap to help them fit, or is there another way to mount them that I'm not seeing? Thanks everyone.

The visor should be black, not green. Most folks cut a visor out of a welders shield, like this one, then hot glue it into the faceplate: https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770580-Shield-Replacement-Shaded/dp/B002VECKRO Don't paint the stripes on your back tank. Jeff should have added tank stickers to your kit, that's usually standard. You should email him if you didn't get them included. Otherwise, you can use these: https://trooperbay.com/decals/prop-replica-decals/star-wars-props/scouts-tb/biker-scout-tank-decals

The SC helmet isn't "small", but it's one of the smaller ones out there. If your head is on the larger side, then honestly I would lean towards getting the Altmann helmet from Spike.

The half moon-ish looking hole above the snout area should have some sort of a part there, yes.

Yeah, either very gently with a heat gun, or you could try dipping the part into boiling water until you can move it back into place.

While there is a fine line to weathering, that looks about right. The original helmets had varying levels of weathering, which you can see in the link below. You're def in the right ballpark. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/real_Biker_Scouts.htm

Looks about right ago far. Good work.

Hmmm, that's a high stress area and I'll admit that my own Strider helmet is developing a crack around the bolt area as well. Still, you haven't had your Altman THAT long. I found that my helmet was getting stressed there b/c the bolts were too tight. How tight are your rotator bolts affixed on the inside?

Looks good so far. Please note though, that if you have any interest in Lancer, then you'll need to fill in the indents on the forehead as well. Those markings also used a sticker on the original helmets.

The cracking just makes it more accurate, right? :) Nice to see you back, Strider.

Hey Jill, great to see you back at it. Nice work so far. One tip, assuming you haven't trimmed the heel portion yet, but you might want to adjust the rectangles. On the original sierra's, the longer rectangle was on the bottom, and the shorter was on the top. Your pencil marks have it the other way around. Also please note that your soles have a two tone sole, so, for level 2 you'll need to use acrylic paint to make it a single "wheat" color. Keep up the good work!

Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white primer followed by Rustoleum 2x Painters Touch white gloss or semi gloss.