Chopper

Hey Mike, the answers to your questions are below: May I please ask what you need higher resolution photos of? Is it just the suede patches and flaps or are there other parts of the costume I need to take more snaps of? Most phones have settings which can be adjusted to take higher res photos. We will need higher resolution photos that specifically show your riding patches and butt flap, as well as photos with a ruler of any biker scout kit items that have specified level 2 measurements, or need closer inspection like the open ear holes or blaster. You can use any of the previously approved Lancer applications as a guide, all of which are in the forum linked below. Being able to examine these details makes our review easier, and also makes the application go faster as well. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/51-lancer-deployment-request/ Based on your reply to my above question I'll see what I can do to get clearer images. Can you please clarify the feedback point however, are you saying the flap is too long or too short? Thanks. We believe your flap is 1.5" to 2" too long in proportion to your body, but, because it's black on black and a lower resolution photo, it is very difficult for us to get a good view of it. My bund is indeed about 1.5 to 2 inches too long, I can only blame this probably on my poor quality measurements supplied to Chef when I ordered the build. So the belt is currently velcro'd level over the bottom of the bund to achieve the correct positioning of the belt on my waist, but yes the belt is over the bottom of the bund and fastened there with velcro so it doesn't move when I'm kitted up. I don't even know how to get this addressed in terms of modifying the bund so will probably have to invest in a new bund to address this point. I would hope that you wouldn't need to ditch the bund entirely. You should check with an alterations shop and see how much it would cost to reduce the vertical height. They should be able to open the back seam and take it down a bit. I already have velcro on my knees and on the inside of the knee armour, this suit is a velcro enthusiast's paradise or nightmare, depending on how much you like velcro! The boots are probably too tall for my legs, (again I guess my bad on measurements when ordering), so unfortunately the boots come up to just below my knee where the armour piece naturally rests. My only options are replace boots (booo!!) or velcro knee parts a bit higher and hope it doesn't look too odd. Due to the cost and effort in making a new set of boots, we'd be happy to take a look at how your knee armor looks with it raised higher. If it doesn't work, it doesn't work, but we're happy to look it over. Thank you very much, Mike, for your patience. Please let us know if you need anything else clarified.

Visor cut out looks good, dude. Ear shapes are looking better. I did some markup on your images as a bit of a guide in the photo below. Hope that helps.

Those lines look really solid, Clay. If you go with those cuts, I'd say you're good to go.

A decent start, but you can go bigger! Try and use these photos of the screen used helmets as a guide.

Do you mean how to apply them? If your kit comes with decals, they usually come on clear transfer paper. If you don't have decals with your kit, you can get them from trooperbay. https://trooperbay.com/decals/prop-replica-decals/star-wars-props/scouts-tb/biker-scout-tank-decals

Hey Phil, so the center points of the bicep armor and the forearm armor shouldn't be aligned along a straight line. Visualize the positioning like this -- if, looking down from above, your nose is the 12 o'clock position, then the bicep armor should be at 3 and 9 o'clock. The forearm armor should be at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions. You can also see it in the CRL photo below:

I used 1" black cotton webbing. The length of the straps was approximately 39".

There's this thread from jen0farc, but she was using the older SC kit: There's also some discussion on trimming down the hard parts in Pandatrooper's build thread from a few years ago. Again, he's using the older SC armor as well: Aside from those examples, give us a shout if you have questions.

Hey there -- before anything else, whose armor kit are you using?

Thanks dude. I'll def keep working the fit.

You will need to provide higher res photos for your Lancer submission, but generally things look ok. You might want to check your left chest pouch and even it up. You can also use velcro to secure your biceps, forearms, and knees to the flight suit. Take a look at this post prior to submitting, as it covers a number of common issues that can be easily remedied: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/20150-lancer-deployment-request-rev-2019/

First rough fitting using a lot of masking tape to hold everything together. Just looking it over myself, looks like I need to pull the chest plate up further, when I actually attach it, and I might want to bring in the undershirt sleeves a bit? How does the bicep and forearm armor look? Wanted to double check before I glue anything and potentially have to rip it back apart again.

Hey Phil, assuming the flak vest is no more than 1-1.5" past the shoulder armor, they should ideally sit about 1/2" - 3/4" under the bottom edge of the flak vest. That can vary though based on your build, so it's not a hard rule. If you have some photos of how they're currently set up, that would help.

A lot of filling and sanding going on. Joined the front and back portions of the ab armor and filled in the gaps with ABS paste. Hours of sanding later...I think we're in business. I'll cut the t-section out of the back later. In the meantime, I can do some final surfacing with the joined parts using Rusto High Build Primer.

Hi Mike, thank you very much for your application! The Lancer Review team has met and we have the following feedback: First off, we would like you to provide more images. Please take a look at some of the other approved Lancer applications here to get an idea of what's required. You will need measurements photos and detail shots. Also, if possible, it would be very helpful for our review if you could please link to higher resolution versions of your photos. Some details, such as your suede patches and flap, are very difficult to see with the current resolution photos. Based on the images you've provided, we do have some feedback -- Flight Suit It appears that your rear flap is approximately, 1.5" - 2" on the bottom. However, as noted above, it is very difficult to see the flap clearly, along with your suede riding patches. Before trimming anything, it would be very helpful if you could provide higher resolution images. Upper Arm Armor Can you please provide a detail photo of the greeblies on your bicep armor? It appears that you have two right side bicep armor greeblies installed in your bicep armor, but we'd like to verify with detail images. If this is the case, after seeing a close up image, then you will need to get in touch with Chef for the proper left bicep greeblie. Cummerbund Your bund appears to be several inches too long on you vertically. Ideally it should end just about on top of the front of your belt, which, for most scouts tends to be approximately 9". your belt placement in your front photo, actually looks good, so you can work from there. You can use the image below as a reference for your bund positioning: Belt and Detonator Please make sure your drop boxes are centered on the sides of your legs. Also please center the parachute buckles on your drop box webbing. Knee Armor and Boots Your knee armor is hanging over the tops of your boots. Are you able to raise them, so they're positioned similarly to the CRL model? If you have them loose, it might help to sew some velcro on the knees of your flight suit to help keep them in place (this is also generally useful for bicep and forearm armor as well). Again, thank you very much, Mike, for your application and your patience. Please let us know if you have any questions or need any clarification. You got this!

Keep the LW. It's second only to the RS helmet in terms of accuracy. The only reason to keep the CB helmet would be if the LW is too small on you and it doesn't fit on your head.

Yes indeed!

Here's mine, built off of the American Apparel bag:

It is possible to convert a flight suit into a set of scout coveralls, but it's just going to take a LOT more work. There's going to be a ton of pockets and zippers to remove. There's also those side pockets, which, if I recall correctly, are difficult to sew up and conceal once the zipper is removed. As an alternative to the RedKap coveralls, you could also look at these, which are a bit lighter and breathe better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BK87DYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As long as you're using the same brand of paint, you should be a-ok to paint the snout area in black on top of the gloss white paint. No need to strip anything back down.

Yeah I did a bit of sanding on the back of the t-bit and used two magnets to hold it on until the E6000 cured enough.

I know that the SC instructions tell you to use the wire to secure the t-bit but you shouldn't need it. I haven't seen any other armor kits use that method. My own t-bits are secured using E6000 and they're not going anywhere anytime soon.

I used masking tape, artists curve tape for the top curved part, and rusto flat black spray paint.

I used the velcro sticky dots on my first helmet. They work pretty well.

Your overall shape is good. Nice work. I would actually extend the bottom down a bit more, maybe another inch though.